Well it's my 1st post. Hopefully I can edit it if not understandable. I am working on a Marshall 9000 stereo amp (only). We started out with nothing. The customer acquired it from a flea market and said it just hummed loud then popped now dead. I looked it over and easily saw 2 power caps were blown open. There are 4 the same. Dual section caps with 50mf each section. I soldered some scrub caps and heard both channels play with no fuses popping. So I ordered 4 nice caps from Studio Sound Electronics. they fit fine and look awesome! But after leaving it of for a while the channel B runs very hot. Way louder then channel A and also the EL34s on the B channel were emanating lots of heat. Tried tubes....same. I checked & checked and finally decided it was the output trans. The guys at Classic Tone helped me pick one out. Of course after I installed it the problem was exactly the same. I have the schematic but could use a directional plan to trouble shoot this amp. 4:27 Update. I'm starting from scratch. I removed all 4 EL 34s and checked DC voltage on the socket. Pin 1 0v, pin 2 450v, pin 3 450, 5 450 vdc, 6 0vdc, 7 0vd, 80vdc. Pin 4 has a discrepency. Channel A its -47vdc on both tubes at pin 4, Channel B it's -.03 Vdc on both tubes at pin 4
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Marshall 9000 amp Channel B Way too hot
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Marshall 9000 amp Channel B Way too hot
Well it's my 1st post. Hopefully I can edit it if not understandable. I am working on a Marshall 9000 stereo amp (only). We started out with nothing. The customer acquired it from a flea market and said it just hummed loud then popped now dead. I looked it over and easily saw 2 power caps were blown open. There are 4 the same. Dual section caps with 50mf each section. I soldered some scrub caps and heard both channels play with no fuses popping. So I ordered 4 nice caps from Studio Sound Electronics. they fit fine and look awesome! But after leaving it of for a while the channel B runs very hot. Way louder then channel A and also the EL34s on the B channel were emanating lots of heat. Tried tubes....same. I checked & checked and finally decided it was the output trans. The guys at Classic Tone helped me pick one out. Of course after I installed it the problem was exactly the same. I have the schematic but could use a directional plan to trouble shoot this amp. 4:27 Update. I'm starting from scratch. I removed all 4 EL 34s and checked DC voltage on the socket. Pin 1 0v, pin 2 450v, pin 3 450, 5 450 vdc, 6 0vdc, 7 0vd, 80vdc. Pin 4 has a discrepency. Channel A its -47vdc on both tubes at pin 4, Channel B it's -.03 Vdc on both tubes at pin 4Last edited by mikeskory; 06-28-2017, 08:58 PM. -
Hi Mike...
Transformers don't usually make things run hot. My first reaction was where is the bias set? I am assuming that one has bias adjust for each channel? Monitor mains current and see if dialing the bias down some decreases mains draw. Or use a bias probe on that channel output tubes.
Or go back a step and pull those power tubes, and verify you have good B+ at both pins 3 and 4 of each socket. then make sure you have reasonable bias voltage at pins 5. I would guess about -445v, but if the other channel is running OK, use it as a rough comparison.
I'd expect bias because the signal level won't really affect heat. But in general, if we apply the same signal to both channels, like with a Y cord, we can trace it through, Is the signal at the phase inverter grids stronger on the loud channel? Or not?Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Remember I owe you lunch. Yes I updated my original post. I pulled all 4 power tubes. Here's what I have. Update. I'm starting from scratch. I removed all 4 EL 34s and checked DC voltages on all 4 sockets. Pin 1 0v, pin 2 450v, pin 3 450, 5 450 vdc, #6 0vdc, #7 0vd, #8 0vdc. Pin 4 has a discrepancy. Channel A its -47vdc on both tubes at pin 4, Channel B it's -.03 Vdc on both tubes at pin 4.
There is a PR1 SET BALANCE and PR2 Set BIAS for each channel. On the good channel they are -40 to -50vdc range. On the hot channel is -036 VDC at all 4 spots. 2 for each PR potLast edited by mikeskory; 06-28-2017, 10:11 PM.
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Here is the schematic: http://drtube.com/schematics/marshall/2001pwr3.gif
Track down why you do not have any bias voltage on Ch B.
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Originally posted by mikeskory View PostA its -47vdc on both tubes at pin 4, Channel B it's -.03 Vdc on both tubes at pin 4
http://drtube.com/schematics/marshall/9005.gif
Edit: <simulpost> Jazz beat me to it!
Edit (again): Remove the tubes from channel B until you get the bias fixed on the channel.Last edited by The Dude; 06-28-2017, 11:58 PM."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Make sure to count socket pins right, pin 5 should have the -47v. The pins count the opposite direction when viewed from the top.
Lunch one day would be great. I am glad you got to meet RJ, we all have to stick together to keep Lansing playing.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Thank you guys! I found it! KNB1530 .047m polypropylene rectangular capacitor. I soldered in a blue .047 regular poly and it plays normal. I'll add the KNB1530 to my current Mouser order, install it, bias the tubes....and that should be that. 2:26 pm Last thought...Im thinking the output trans was still bad. Prior to installing it, my light bulb tester would light up like a beacon if I engaged the bad channel via the stand by switch with the power tubes OUT. The only way I could calm down the light bulb was to unhook the trans from the circuit. If took about 15-20 seconds.
After the new one was installed, the tester acted normal with the trans wired in. Thank againLast edited by mikeskory; 06-29-2017, 06:55 PM.
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