TC Helicon Play Acoustic - Identifying Rotary Encoder Specs

[DrGonz78]

So I have a busted rotary switch on this Helicon Play Acoustic pedal. I have found a bit of info on the replacement part but not enough specifics to feel comfortable pulling the trigger on a parts order through Mouser.

https://forum.music-group.com/showth...b-broken/page5
The forum above post #44 and #47 do give some info but not complete enough to be for sure. For example, post #47 says 12 or maybe 24 Detents and 12 or maybe 24 pulses per 360 degree rotation. Has anybody dealt with these before and knows which one I should get? Post #44 is obvious a worker at TC and he recommends the data sheet, but that does not actually tell us the specifics.

I am leaning towards this one here below... Assuming it has 24 pulses per rotation. I can count 24 little pads on the back of the broken encoder so I am not sure what that really tells me though. How would the encoder react if I get something that is close but not exact?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...RYfaioUiMoo4Jo

[Mick Bailey]

If the encoding is the same in both a 12 and 24 pulse encoder it just comes down to how far you need to rotate it if it's the incorrect choice. Where there's doubt I go for a 24 position one and try to get the same brand/series as the original. When you look at specs there's a huge choice but for essentially the same thing in either 12 or 24 position. So you have mounting type, shaft length, shaft material, bush type, detent force etc.

[DrGonz78]

Thanks Mick for the advice! I am going to order one of the 12 detent 12 pulse and the other 24 detent 24 pulse encoders. As it says "12 detent model can only have 12 pulse". For a buck each might as well get a couple of each. I am still betting on the 24 detent 24 pulse version though. The mount is horizontal, shaft length(will measure) etc etc... All that stuff is easy. I will report back the part number that works and then others with future repairs will have something to go by when searching for the correct part.

[Mick Bailey]

If I'm in doubt, before soldering the new one in place I clip the terminals of the existing one close as I can to the body and attach short leads to the remaining stubs sticking out of the PCB to connect up the new one. If this words out I then I only have one removal/replacement to avoid stressing the board too much.

[DrGonz78]

If I'm in doubt, before soldering the new one in place I clip the terminals of the existing one close as I can to the body and attach short leads to the remaining stubs sticking out of the PCB to connect up the new one. If this words out I then I only have one removal/replacement to avoid stressing the board too much.

Unfortunately I removed the part in a futile attempt to repair it or something, yeah good luck on that one. The middle pin is to a large ground plane and just trying to clear solder in that one pin hole was almost just as futile as trying to fix the encoder. Those boards act like giant heat sinks with those ground planes thus making simple procedures extremely infuriating. After removing the thing I wish I would have just clipped the leads in place just as you suggested. Oh well next time.

[DrGonz78]

So to follow up on the repair the part number is 652-PEC12R-4220F-N24, as far as the mouser source part I used. Works like a charm now.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...p0uIJ%2fdrHinH