Measure voltage on both ends (anode and cathode) of ZD2.
If track/solder is open between its anode and TR2 base or between its cathode and ground, it won´t do its job.
Like Enzo says, shotgunning parts is not enough, only half problems come from bad parts, other half comes from poor connections (cold solder, cracked tracks, dirty contacts, frayed wires, etc.)
Time and time again we read distressed posts like"I´m going mad, replaced *every single component* in the board and still the damn amp does not work!!!"
Personally I always insist on taking voltage readings all over the place and when finding a weird one, trying to find what caused it.
You read bad rails (fine) and indirectly read weird TR2 base voltage (2 V below raw supply voltage instead of 8V below like the other one) but failed to act on that useful piece of data.
I bet TR1 base is 27V away from ground, while TR2 base is some 32V away ... a clear indication that the 27V Zener is not doing its job.
Why? ... go find it
If track/solder is open between its anode and TR2 base or between its cathode and ground, it won´t do its job.
Like Enzo says, shotgunning parts is not enough, only half problems come from bad parts, other half comes from poor connections (cold solder, cracked tracks, dirty contacts, frayed wires, etc.)
Time and time again we read distressed posts like"I´m going mad, replaced *every single component* in the board and still the damn amp does not work!!!"
Personally I always insist on taking voltage readings all over the place and when finding a weird one, trying to find what caused it.
You read bad rails (fine) and indirectly read weird TR2 base voltage (2 V below raw supply voltage instead of 8V below like the other one) but failed to act on that useful piece of data.
I bet TR1 base is 27V away from ground, while TR2 base is some 32V away ... a clear indication that the 27V Zener is not doing its job.
Why? ... go find it
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