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Stromburg Carlson radio cap question

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  • Stromburg Carlson radio cap question

    I am restoring an old widow maker radio. The can caps are 40/40uF @ 150v, but there is another 30/50uF @ 150v dual cap inside that connects the positive leads to either can cap terminal, with the common negative going to ground. What is stopping me from losing the dual 30/50uF cap, and wiring in a 80uF and a 100uF under the hood, and leaving the can cap in place and disconnected?
    It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

  • #2
    Sure it's done all the time when can caps go bad. If you're going to go that route, why not use values closer to original?
    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Randall View Post
      I am restoring an old widow maker radio. The can caps are 40/40uF @ 150v, but there is another 30/50uF @ 150v dual cap inside that connects the positive leads to either can cap terminal, with the common negative going to ground. What is stopping me from losing the dual 30/50uF cap, and wiring in a 80uF and a 100uF under the hood, and leaving the can cap in place and disconnected?
      Is there a rectifier tube? If so check the data sheet for the max value on the first cap.
      nosaj
      soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

      Comment


      • #4
        "Sure it's done all the time when can caps go bad. If you're going to go that route, why not use values closer to original?"

        With the inside dual cap in parallel with the can terminals, values are 80 and 90uF, which is really what I am asking about. There is a 35Y4 rectifier tube, but I'm not going to sweat it if the new cap is 10uF higher than the old one.
        It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

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        • #5
          Sorry, I didn't realize you had parallel caps. A schematic would help.
          "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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          • #6
            Originally posted by nosaj View Post
            Is there a rectifier tube? If so check the data sheet for the max value on the first cap.
            nosaj
            I think the radio he's talking about is an AA5
            I am restoring an old widow maker radio...
            edit; my post landed a couple of minutes late.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Randall View Post
              "Sure it's done all the time when can caps go bad. If you're going to go that route, why not use values closer to original?"

              With the inside dual cap in parallel with the can terminals, values are 80 and 90uF, which is really what I am asking about. There is a 35Y4 rectifier tube, but I'm not going to sweat it if the new cap is 10uF higher than the old one.
              According to the data sheet 40uf is the rectifiers input max for a cap, Too high I believe will lead to arc over shorting the tube. But then again I'm no expert.
              How about a model or a schematic?
              nosaj
              https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/049/3/35Y4.pdf
              soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

              Comment


              • #8
                You are assuming that the caps in parallel are all good. Chances are the original cap was leaky and not doing the job, so they tacked a new cap in parallel. Not to double the capacity, but just to get capacity back. In other words the original can cap is now being used just as a terminal strip.

                It is just a table radio, don't sweat the values.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                • #9
                  The model is 1100 seies 12. I not been able to find a schematic. I guess I will try a 40/40uF and see how it goes.
                  It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

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                  • #10
                    radiomuseum has a 1100H schematic, not sure if it is the same.
                    Originally posted by Enzo
                    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                    • #11
                      Tube lineup looks similar I think H is for Highboy modelM0021272.pdf

                      nosaj
                      soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

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