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Soundcraft FX16II Stuck Solo Mode Repair Options

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  • Soundcraft FX16II Stuck Solo Mode Repair Options

    My Soundcraft FX16II has a channel locked in solo/pfl mode. Unhooked everything, powered down, pressed solo button hard, etc..

    I've read and explored previous posts addressing this issue and I'm afraid the needed skill to repair it and replacement parts are beyond my current capabilities (or, at least for the immediate future, but I need the board operational ASAP...).

    What I haven't seen addressed on other posts about this problem is if the channel can somehow be disabled entirely. I don't need that channel at the moment so if there was a way to get the rest of the board working again, I could commit the time after I finish some projects.

    If my only option to disable the channel ends up requiring some severe damage to that channel, making a future repair later on very difficult, I'm so desperate, I'd be willing to sacrifice the channel permanently. I've never even needed all 16 channels, so odds are I won't ever miss it.

    I've got the board completely dissembled and the following schematics:
    ED0500
    E0500A-03A
    E0498A-03
    ED0499

    If there is any information needed, please let me know.
    Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

  • #2
    Those schematics are not showing as I don't think you have sufficient privileges yet.
    Here is a link to some: https://music-electronics-forum.com/...l=1#post387894
    "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

    Comment


    • #3
      Have you tried cleaning the switch with contact cleaner?
      "Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man."

      Comment


      • #4
        Have you opened the unit?
        Does it have connectors on the individual channels?
        If not, for a novice, it will be no easier for you to disable it than to fix it.

        (P.S. for those following, affected area is on pg.2 of 'master' schematic in post #2)
        "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by g1 View Post
          Have you opened the unit?
          Does it have connectors on the individual channels?
          If not, for a novice, it will be no easier for you to disable it than to fix it.

          (P.S. for those following, affected area is on pg.2 of 'master' schematic in post #2)
          g1, thanks for the info and links. I already had them, but I appreciate sharing them.

          I have opened the unit and disassembled it so I can work on the main board.

          I've studied the 'master' schematics and have located the elements listed for the channel I want to disable.

          You are right I am a novice, so I'm not even sure I know what you mean by "connectors on the individual channel". How can I tell and what should I look for?

          If I had the replacement parts to fix it, I would try to do it, but I really need this fixed ASAP. I'm willing to put in the overtime to try and disable it but I just don't have the option to wait for the parts to come in. If I can't get the board operating by tomorrow, I'll order the parts.

          What area on pg. 2 of the master schematic is the affected area? I was planning to spend time tomorrow attempting to figure out the route of the solo/pfl effect and see if I could determine if/what options might be available to me. I recognize I'm heading down a road of grasping at straws, but, well, I'm grasping at straws...

          Thanks for this help, though!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by The Dude View Post
            Have you tried cleaning the switch with contact cleaner?

            Yes

            Comment


            • #7
              Without pictures I have no idea what is or is not on the main board, and I doubt you will be allowed to post pictures yet, but you can try.
              Some high end mixers have all modular construction, so each channel strip would have it's own removable board. In that case, you could just disconnect it's connectors. That is what I meant when I asked if the channel had connectors.

              If everything is on the main board, then you will have to de-solder or cut leads on individual components.

              These are the paths that I think you would need to disable/cut.


              Click image for larger version

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              "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by g1 View Post
                Without pictures I have no idea what is or is not on the main board, and I doubt you will be allowed to post pictures yet, but you can try.
                Some high end mixers have all modular construction, so each channel strip would have it's own removable board. In that case, you could just disconnect it's connectors. That is what I meant when I asked if the channel had connectors.

                If everything is on the main board, then you will have to de-solder or cut leads on individual components.

                These are the paths that I think you would need to disable/cut.


                [ATTACH=CONFIG]55203[/ATTACH]
                Thank you so much! Yeah, it's unfortunately not modular. I will locate those circled paths when I get into work tomorrow. If you have any tips or things to be careful of when de-soldering or cutting the leads, I'll take them. I've soldered a lot but I'm not used to working on boards this advanced.

                Comment


                • #9
                  What I would do as a tech is get out my meter and compare a working channel to the non working channel. For a start... If it is a switch, do resistance measurements with the power off and compare the switch to a switch in a working working channel. If the switch is damaged you may simply be able to remove it. If it isnít the switch then do voltage comparisons to a working channel. Hard to tell without it in front of us. If that is over your head.. take it to someone or you risk bricking it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by olddawg View Post
                    What I would do as a tech is get out my meter and compare a working channel to the non working channel. For a start... If it is a switch, do resistance measurements with the power off and compare the switch to a switch in a working working channel. If the switch is damaged you may simply be able to remove it. If it isnít the switch then do voltage comparisons to a working channel. Hard to tell without it in front of us. If that is over your head.. take it to someone or you risk bricking it.
                    Thank you for that. Using the image above with the Solo area's circled, can you explain to me where the switch is? I have the ability to do resistance measurements. I'd like to try this technique but just not sure what you mean by a switch.

                    Thank you!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The switch is shown as 2 halves, SA6-A, and SA6-B. 3 pins on each half.
                      "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

                      Comment

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