Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Dynacord DRP 16 Digital Reverb

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Here we go!
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #17
      Thx. My reading of it is that "nominal input level" for the adjustment is to set the input control " full right" ( I guess clockwise) and the input "hi / lo" switch pressed, 200Hz at 100mVrms applied.

      I see a note that the offset only need be adjusted if the converter has been replaced. It's rather up to you if you want to do it. If it is well off it might be a symptom of a real issue.

      I think it's worthwhile having a good look at the caps and certainly replace any that are leaking electrolyte or current. If you have an ESR meter then that can quickly find the ones that do need replacement. It's really tough call though. On one hand you don't want to do any unnecessary work and the risk that goes along with ( think obsolete parts) that and on the other you want to know that it's in the best possible condition and reliability. Again it's your call.

      PS: The specs are really quite impressive.

      Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by nickb View Post
        Thx. My reading of it is that "nominal input level" for the adjustment is to set the input control " full right" ( I guess clockwise) and the input "hi / lo" switch pressed, 200Hz at 100mVrms applied.

        I see a note that the offset only need be adjusted if the converter has been replaced. It's rather up to you if you want to do it. If it is well off it might be a symptom of a real issue.

        I think it's worthwhile having a good look at the caps and certainly replace any that are leaking electrolyte or current. If you have an ESR meter then that can quickly find the ones that do need replacement. It's really tough call though. On one hand you don't want to do any unnecessary work and the risk that goes along with ( think obsolete parts) that and on the other you want to know that it's in the best possible condition and reliability. Again it's your call.

        Many thanks!!

        Yes, I only want to check the LED meter, and change the filter caps... nothing more.

        Thanks again.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by nickb View Post
          Thx. My reading of it is that "nominal input level" for the adjustment is to set the input control " full right" ( I guess clockwise) and the input "hi / lo" switch pressed, 200Hz at 100mVrms applied.
          There is also mention of 'service switch S401', which is something other than S101, the HI/LO switch.

          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Davebassman View Post
            Here we go!
            Click image for larger version

Name:	-  up.png
Views:	290
Size:	1.5 KB
ID:	910948
            It's All Over Now

            Comment


            • #21
              If you decide to replace the caps, change C161 (4700u), C162, (1000u), C163 (1000u). Make an effort they are low-esr caps and for 105 ° C

              If it is a two-layer PCB, arm yourself with patience and the appropriate tools (vacuum solder ...)

              1)
              The previous vk post (10:24 PM) was deleted by mistake
              Last edited by vintagekiki; 08-09-2020, 10:08 PM.
              It's All Over Now

              Comment


              • #22
                Thanks for your help!

                Comment

                Working...
                X