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Maybe theres a simple fix for this?

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  • Maybe theres a simple fix for this?

    Since i started using a single battery to power a RAT and a tube screamer, a issue with that has started to bother me. I let it go at first but It's just gotten to where it's really bothersome. When i step on the tube screamer i get a slight cut out of the sound thats just a tiny fraction of a second but it's obvious and doesn't sound good. It only happens with the creamer, not the RAT. I have 2 screamers so i tried the other and same thing. Any ideal what i could do to eliminate that? Some sort of isolation that wouldn't cause the battery to drain quicker either?

  • #2
    Any change if you reverse the order of RAT and TS?

    Does it also happen when each effect has its own battery?
    - Own Opinions Only -

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    • #3
      I Tried that just now and tried several other things and i think it's the rechargeable battery. Now that i am aware of the issue i'm wondering if it always did this but so little it wasn't obvious. Because trying all these different things it did it to varying degrees from barely noticable to very. The least it does it is with an alkaline. Maybe these batteries are just to high voltage? Remember how i wanted to use a regulator because these batteries charge to 11.6 and most of their lif cycle is over 10v and once under maybe 9.5 or something like that they die very quickly. So they are always well over 9v spending most of their charge cycle in the 10-11v range. Could that be it? Because it does it so little with an alkaline that i could see how i'd never have noticed it before.

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      • #4
        Both tube screamers do it? Both same when the Rat is removed from the circuit?
        Originally posted by Enzo
        I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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        • #5
          the only thing that seems to eliminate it or make it too minor to notice unless listening for it is to use an alkaline.

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          • #6
            Monitor the battery voltage as you switch it in and see if your meter can catch the drop. I'm wondering if low current LEDs would help.
            Originally posted by Enzo
            I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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            • #7
              No drop. Its at 10.13 volts and it stayed the same no matter how many times i turned the pedal on and off.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by daz View Post
                No drop. Its at 10.13 volts and it stayed the same no matter how many times i turned the pedal on and off.
                The meter is probably too slow to register a short dip.

                It seems more likely that the effect is caused by high battery resistance rather than high voltage.

                Does the RAT have an indicator LED? (mine doesn't)

                It may help to buffer supply voltage by adding say 470µ caps in each pedal.

                Please answer earlier questions.
                Last edited by Helmholtz; 12-21-2021, 07:11 PM.
                - Own Opinions Only -

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                • #9
                  I did...i said i tried what you suggested but nothing changed.

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                  • #10
                    This is maybe not an entirely credible reason, but here goes: The bypass switching in the TS is deliberately slowed down (to avoid popping) by the two switching FET gates each having a capacitor to ground. I wonder if the higher supply voltage is adding just enough additional latency to the point where you can hear it. The test is to experimentally drop the rechargeable battery voltage to that of the alkaline and re-check to see if the problem persists.

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                    • #11
                      Thats interesting. Are many pedals designed like that? I wonder if the cap(s) could be swapped for smaller values to help this.

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                      • #12
                        Quite a few pedals use this method, but it's just an idea that this may be the issue in the absence of any other thought. See if the problem persists with a lowered voltage - diodes/regulator or a partly discharged battery. If it goes away then maybe change the caps for a lower value as an experiment. I don't know about your particular version, but the Electrosmash site shows them as C11 & C12 (0.047uf).

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                        • #13
                          It's the TS7..... http://www.matsumin.net/diy/bunkai/I...%20TS7_sch.BMP

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                          • #14
                            That schematic doesn't show the switching - I'll take a look to see if there's a factory version with part numbers.

                            EDIT: Try this. Caps are C40 and C47 (bottom left) https://www.freeinfosociety.com/media/pdf/4069.pdf

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                            • #15
                              Thanks, i was having a hard time finding a TS7 schematic and the one i found i didn't see switching either, but i thought it was just my ineptness.

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