Source for aluminum amp chassis blanks?

[SoulFetish]

preferably with pem nuts installed for mounting.

I guess it's been a while since I was in the market for one, because every source I had is g.o.n.e. I really like the chassis I bought from "Watts Tube Audio" several years ago, but long story short; no longer an option. All my other links are dead.

[Mike K]

There's a guy selling on eBay. I haven't used him, but I liked synaptic amps that used to sell through Reverb. It seems he must have stopped making them.

[mozz]

Zachmdhunter. I've bought a bunch from him. He may also make to your specs, not sure on that.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/32536935276...Bk9SR8qkh5-EYg

There is a guy on Reverb who will make to your specs, i had him make me one to fit under a pedal board to house the multi power supply.

Just tried to drill a hole in a steel chrome chassis, what a pain in the ass.

[mikepukmel]

I bought a couple of ZachMDHunter chassis. They were drilled. The ones I got were steel. Nice work. Neat.

I got an aluminum chassis from this guy https://www.facebook.com/juicyamps/ because he would leave out certain drill holes in a JTM45 case (I wanted one with different tube holes and one set of input jacks for a custom amp that I never got a chance to build). Aluminum. pretty good. Got it around 2019. His web site is gone, but he's still on facebook.

The Zach MD Hunter chassis were a little better, neater.

Also, bought an aluminum JTM45 chassis from this guy,

http://valvestorm.com/Products/MetroAmp

but it was not a blank, all the holes were drilled. You might ping the guy to see if he can get you what you want. The chassis is very neat, has nuts installed.


There is another guy, I can't find a link to his site, was more pricey but made good looking almost perfect face/back plates. I think he had only steel chassis, but if I can find the link will post it. (Now what was that web site name...)

[mikepukmel]

preferably with pem nuts installed for mounting.

I guess it's been a while since I was in the market for one, because every source I had is g.o.n.e. I really like the chassis I bought from "Watts Tube Audio" several years ago, but long story short; no longer an option. All my other links are dead.

Yeah, shame about Watts. I bought some turret boards from him, very nice work. Seems, his dad was in the business with him, and when his dad passed, he lost interest and the business closed not long after that. Another source gone <frown>

Ohh, Jaycy has a chinese ebay link on her Facebook page: https://www.ebay.com.hk/str/kadaudio

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100082680409593

They have one huge ton of stuff, seems every week a bunch of new products. I don't know the quality, never bought from them.

[Chuck H]

For something custom that's not specific to a known model, I USED TO know a guy. His name is Ron Work and he made flawless aluminum chassis from .08 aluminum with welded corners, angled fronts if you want that, the guy could follow plans perfectly and he'll punch, drill and cut whatever you want. All this was about three times the cost of a blank, off the shelf chassis from Hammond or Bud made from .04 aluminum. But I only ordered a chassis or two at any given time. The price may get even better with quantity.?. All the chassis I got from him were the best with no mistakes in the custom punching and drilling. BUT... It's been ten years since I worked with him. I don't even know if he's still doing it. The email I have for him is rkwork(at)tisd(dot)net

[Mick Bailey]

I got fed up with trying to find chassis over here with decent thickness, so about 20 years ago built a folding machine which I've used ever since. It bends up to 1.8mm in aluminium and 1.5mm in stainless for the full width of the machine, and 2mm in aluminium or stainless for narrower pieces. Recently I've been experimenting with a plasma cutter to do chassis cutouts in stainless and I'm pleased with the results. A rectangular drop-through transformer hole can be done in under 30 seconds and the edge needs hardly any cleaning up - just the burr underneath removing. I tried this just using a thin plywood template.

Here's a picture of the folding machine just after construction;

[Tom Phillips]

I got fed up with trying to find chassis over here with decent thickness, so about 20 years ago built a folding machine which I've used ever since...

Hi Mick,
I too have been contemplating building my own aluminum chassis so that I can have the exact size and thickness that I choose. I have a question about choosing an aluminum alloy. Ideally, I'd like an alloy that maintains a decent appearance if it was not coated with a sprayed on (paint) or a plated (such as anodize) finish. I'd realty appreciate any information that you may have on this subject.
Cheers,
Tom

[Chuck H]

All aluminum alloys will oxidize unless they're coated or anodized. The options for DIYers are very limited because the primers for aluminum are all made from environmentally heinous stuff that's only available to companies that draw enough water to skirt and find loop holes in EPA regulations. So you can't purchase any good aluminum primers at the hardware store in the US (and likely the UK). But what you CAN do is grease any ground screws with anti ox goop and spray lacquer on your front and rear panels. Which works just fine IMHE having only ever worked with aluminum. Regarding specific alloys... I don't know enough about it other than to say that some aluminum alloys will work harden enough when drilling or cutting to cause problems you only thought you'd have with steel. If you're not familiar with work hardening it has to do with repeated bending or heating and can make it hard to get finite cuts and accurate drill centers when it happens. On the other hand using a soft aluminum alloy could lack the structural stability you want. I've only made less than a couple dozen amps but I've already realized these difficulties. Sorry I can't comment on specific alloys but for my time with it they were never specified. So "aluminum" was all I knew about what I was gettting.

[nosaj]

Zachmdhunter. I've bought a bunch from him. He may also make to your specs, not sure on that.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/32536935276...Bk9SR8qkh5-EYg

There is a guy on Reverb who will make to your specs, i had him make me one to fit under a pedal board to house the multi power supply.

Just tried to drill a hole in a steel chrome chassis, what a pain in the ass.

Chassis punch is what is called for.
nosaj

[Mick Bailey]

The aluminium sheet I use is 1050 grade sold as 'half-hard' H14 temper and It's the most common sheet material over here. It's strong enough for an amp chassis with moderately sized transformers, but I have reservations about using it for anything over (say) 60w. unless the thickness went up. Peavey amps such as the Mace and Deuce that used an aluminium chassis in the 70s rapidly suffered from the transformers sagging the chassis when bumped around.

As far as finish durability I've never had any problems with oxidisation - aluminium has a transparent surface oxide anyhow that protects it to a large degree. Anodising just increases this layer. Once finished, If the chassis is on display I polish the outside and give it a final shine with spray furniture polish.

[mozz]

Chassis punch is what is called for.
nosaj

I have chassis punches, i am talking just drilling a small hole. I don't know if the chrome makes it harder to start or my drill bits are junk. There are different angles on the drill bit tip, maybe i am using the wrong style. I seem to break most bits under 1/8, i guess forcing them too hard.

[nosaj]

I have chassis punches, i am talking just drilling a small hole. I don't know if the chrome makes it harder to start or my drill bits are junk. There are different angles on the drill bit tip, maybe i am using the wrong style. I seem to break most bits under 1/8, i guess forcing them too hard.

Are you using cutting oil?
nosaj

[Chuck H]

I'm not sure I've ever seen a chromed aluminum chassis.?. Am I missing something from earlier in the thread? And...

I don't have a drill press and I have busted drill bits on steel chassis. Keeping the bit angle steady and using gentle pressure at higher speed is key. If you're trying to "route" the hole at all you should change to a bit made for that.

[nosaj]

me either but here is quite a selection of aluminum chassis's or BUD boxes.
nosaj
https://www.google.com/search?channe...uminum+chassis