Heads up price alert! Just stocked up on 1 & 2W resistors/500V for around $0.03 a piece

[SoulFetish]

Newark.com has some great pricing one passives right now. For 1-3W resistors rated at 500V, I was able to get every value I needed to restock for under $0.06 a piece and as low as 2 cents on in stock items. TE Connectivity/Neohm RR series resistors are currently listed at great prices, from what I was looking at.
Anyways, I will search the ends of the earth to get try and get what I'm looking for at a great deal. I think it's because I'm cheap? But definitely because I'm broke.
Just wanted to give y'all a heads up.


here is an example:
https://www.newark.com/neohm-te-conn...ilm/dp/21R3254

[Mick Bailey]

Maybe they're reducing the stock of through-hole components. Most times I've seen real bargains, a few weeks or months later they're no longer stocked. When I've seen these deals I've stocked up. I got in when Fairchild J102 Jfets were $1.60 for a hundred and airmail letter rate was cheap to the UK. Not long afterwards people were selling them singly for that price.

[Helmholtz]

Even resistors have a shelf life (often 5 years).
Big companies/customers won't accept overstored parts because of possible wave soldering issues.

https://www.raypcb.com/shelf-life-of...ic-components/

[SoulFetish]

Even resistors have a shelf life (often 5 years).
Big companies/customers won't accept overstored parts because of possible wave soldering issues.

https://www.raypcb.com/shelf-life-of...ic-components/

The good news with regards to leaded resistors is that they don't become defective in storage. The concern is oxide, and corrosion degrading leads and making solder connections difficult if I understand it correctly. That's almost never a concern for me. I've only come across one instance where some electrolytic capacitors bought from Electronics Goldmine were straight up rusted.
For everything else I've an extremely effective technique for removing layers of oxide and build up on leads without removing the tinned layer underneath to prepare them to take solder. This was after a lot of trial and error

[g1]

I've an extremely effective technique for removing layers of oxide and build up on leads without removing the tinned layer underneath to prepare them to take solder. This was after a lot of trial and error

Is it a trade secret?

[mozz]

Ancient ******* secret. That's from a tv commercial for those young techs.

Edit: i would think even a green scrungy pad or steel wool very quick would be good enough.

[SoulFetish]

Is it a trade secret?

absolutely not! Happy to share. Ill try and do a visual demo, but lemme circle back and Ill describe it. Super simple

[35L6]

I have sprayed D5 in the cap and dipped the leads before using .

[Helmholtz]

absolutely not! Happy to share. Ill try and do a visual demo, but lemme circle back and Ill describe it. Super simple

Still waiting curiously.

[SoulFetish]

Still waiting curiously.

that’s fair. Your patience is appreciated. I’ve been procrastinating because I want to provide some visual examples. Perhaps a short video.

[Helmholtz]

Teaser.

If it's not abrasive, I expect some chemical reaction.

[SoulFetish]

Teaser.

If it's not abrasive, I expect some chemical reaction.

It is an abrasive technique.
I would be very interested in learning techniques which leverage a chemical reaction. I’d be curious to see if would work as quickly.

[SoulFetish]

without further ado...

Okay, here is how I restore the tin layer to leaded components which have oxide and other layers of build-up on the lead. I made a couple of video demos, which were a pain in the ass in that the lighting on my bench is very poor for cinematography and trying to capture this using my phone camera provided mediocre results. So,please make some allowances for the the challenges of trying to capture on video what you can plainly see with with the naked eye.
I'll make couple of point about this beforehand: First, and most importantly, Every other abrasive pad, or object with a sharp corner or edge either removed the tin layer off completely with the oxide, or would almost certainly catch an edge into the soft lead material leading to damaging the leads to some degree. The other problem with trying to "scrape" off the build up was achieving consistent results around the entire... outside radius of the lead.
I'm sure that there are many ways using a variety of materials which can achieve good results with this. But through experimentation, I've been getting great results for years now using the technique shown in this video below. (my camera was in the way while trying to film this, and I'm trying to not knock it over, so it's a little awkward in this video. The idea is that using the rounded edge over the lead with light pressure, you can easily use your other had to hold and slowly rotate the lead to get consistent results.) I'm usually done with both leads in about 10-20 seconds)
https://vimeo.com/1040545457

the most important components being that there is a very flat, hard surface to support the lead and light pressure. Im my experience, oak, or other comparable hardwood is ideal for this. But the most important part is using a tool with a radial surface at the point of contact with the lead. I'm using the rounded part of a pair of needle nose pliers in this video and they worked great. But it's best to experiment with some different things which you have that might work like this. I've also had great success using the straight type solder picks.

I's difficult to see the sine restored to the lead in the first video, so here is another where I try and get some light movement to catch on the lead:
https://vimeo.com/1040208137

[Helmholtz]

Nice result!
Reminds me of a method I sometimes use to (spot-) polish a fret.
It's based on this Dan Erlewine article: http://www.lespaulforum.com/homesite...s/frameset.htm

For component leads cleaning I've successfully used:

1) Jewellery polishing cloth (works like a charm).
2) Folded very fine grid (1000 or higher) sanding paper.
3) Extra fine steel wool. Works great but I hate the debris.
4) "Nevr Dull" polish wadding.
(Even toothpaste on toilet paper works to some extent)


All things I use on frets as well (except for the toothpaste)..
But if I'm in a hurry with tarnished component leads I just use an old wire stripping tool for enameled wire which has a pair of opposing serrated claws.
To prepare for soldering it's mostly sufficient to dip the wire into my colophony in alcohol solution.

[tedmich]

I just pinch (straight) lead in one of these and it draw out, rotate pad as it gets used up.