Useful tools

[Steve A.]

Those little Hakko nippers are great, as long as you use 'em only on copper wire and small component leads only. Guitar strings, no way...

They work great but it kinda ruins them for electronic work. I get them from Frys when their special promo code brings the price down to $2.49 or $2.99. I'll put a rubber band on a pair to keep them closed and keep 'em in my "go to" bag.

For strings I've been using full size dikes (diagonal cutters), a pair that cost me under $10 has lasted 25+ years so far so good, showing no nicks in the blades after cutting thousands of strings.

Diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks, I guess. I try to keep the big cutters away from my guitars... anything that will take out a big chunk if I drop 'em on it by mistake. Not that I would do that intentionally...

Steve

P.S. I like to put that "special twist"* in unwound strings to keep them from slipping so I will also use a small pair of needle nose pliers, preferably the bent kind and optionally with the cutter portion for .009s to .018s.

* For the top 3 strings on a LP I will thread the string through the hole and then wrap it half a turn CCW and then under the incoming part of the string and finally pull it back sharply CW. Once I pre-stretch the strings they usually stay in tune.

[Chuck H]

P.S. I like to put that "special twist"* in unwound strings to keep them from slipping so I will also use a small pair of needle nose pliers, preferably the bent kind and optionally with the cutter portion for .009s to .018s.

* For the top 3 strings on a LP I will thread the string through the hole and then wrap it half a turn CCW and then under the incoming part of the string and finally pull it back sharply CW. Once I pre-stretch the strings they usually stay in tune.

I just hate the lumpy look of an underwrap. Dan Torres use to solder the ball end wrap on plain strings and said it keeps them in tune better for non locking trem systems. Maybe. I do know that the steel properties are affected at soldering temperatures and I'd be worried about breakage due to softening or reduction of elasticity. One thing I've wanted to try is lightly sanding the tuning key end of the plain strings to add grip. Maybe next string change

[Steve A.]

Soft Touch Pliers - from IPS in Japan

Soft Touch Pliers... the greatest tool since sliced bread! Rather than wrapping the jaws of your slip joint pliers with duct tape or your wife's lingerie these pliers have replaceable plastic inserts to securely hold items without scratching them.



I just learned about this brand new tool in an email from StewMac (hooray for spam!) As of this moment it seems to be cheapest at Amazon ($13.90), at least if you qualify for free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/PH-165-Non-ma.../dp/B001V7DYSQ

I got mine from eBay with free 2 day shipping but their price just went up to $16.39.

FREE 2 DAY SHIPPING: IPS PH-165 Non-marring Plastic Jaw Soft Touch Slip Joint | eBay

However only StewMac has the replaceable jaw inserts listed for $5.95 (their item #1720 — or #1719 for the pliers.)



Soft Touch Pliers | stewmac.com

So far, so good but I've only taken them for a short test drive. BTW there are several different pliers listed on the packaging including needle nose and water pump pliers. And they are made in Japan so you don't have to worry about our trade deficit with China!

Steve A.

[Chuck H]

Need two like buttons! Of course, I'll probably continue wrapping my plain old pliers with tape for a while But it's a great idea whose time has come.

[g1]

Are those plastic inserts more like hard slippery plastic, or softer grippy rubber?

[rjb]

Not to rain on the parade, but soft jaw pliers are nothing new.
Different configurations have been used by plumbers, jewelers and mechanics for <I dunno; fill in a time period>.

https://www.google.com/search?q=nylo...w=1242&bih=609

https://www.google.com/search?q=plas...w=1242&bih=609

https://www.google.com/search?q=soft...w=1242&bih=609

That being said, I do wish I owned a pair or two.

-rb

[Justin Thomas]

Are those plastic inserts more like hard slippery plastic, or softer grippy rubber?

They should come with different hardnesseseseseseseses, and be interchangeable. But if they're smart little capitalists, they'll do like the razor companies and charge as much for different inserts as for the handle itself...

Damn it, don't send them that idea!

Justin

[Gnobuddy]

I'm a wee bit surprised that nobody has mentioned a security bit set. Like this one, for example: https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...et/A-p8583023e

Not so long ago, you only needed these for miniature electronics devices made by control-freak manufacturers like Apple Corp. Nowadays I find those stupid security screws on all sorts of oddball things - like the virtually new cheap Chinese-made snow-blower my buddy found abandoned on the sidewalk last winter. (The only thing wrong with it was that the internal on-off switch had slipped slightly out of alignment with the external waterproof cover, but you couldn't open it to fix it unless you had the right security bit.)

Another must-have tool on my list (also not mentioned on this thread so far) is a spring-loaded automatic centre punch, like this one: Lisle Corporation . I use mine all the time to allow me to drill accurately placed holes.

Here in Canada, you also need a set of Robertson screwdrivers (or Robertson bits for your multi-bit screwdriver). I love Robertson screws - the square-drive head never strips, and they stay put on the tip of your screwdriver while you get them started. But they are a Canada-only thing, because an unscrupulous company swindled the inventor, after which he refused to let them be manufactured except directly under his control. For those who've never encountered the original "no slip" screw design, here goes: Robertson Website - Home Page

-Gnobuddy

[nosaj]

I'm a wee bit surprised that nobody has mentioned a security bit set. Like this one, for example: https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...et/A-p8583023e

Not so long ago, you only needed these for miniature electronics devices made by control-freak manufacturers like Apple Corp. Nowadays I find those stupid security screws on all sorts of oddball things - like the virtually new cheap Chinese-made snow-blower my buddy found abandoned on the sidewalk last winter. (The only thing wrong with it was that the internal on-off switch had slipped slightly out of alignment with the external waterproof cover, but you couldn't open it to fix it unless you had the right security bit.)

Another must-have tool on my list (also not mentioned on this thread so far) is a spring-loaded automatic centre punch, like this one: Lisle Corporation . I use mine all the time to allow me to drill accurately placed holes.

Here in Canada, you also need a set of Robertson screwdrivers (or Robertson bits for your multi-bit screwdriver). I love Robertson screws - the square-drive head never strips, and they stay put on the tip of your screwdriver while you get them started. But they are a Canada-only thing, because an unscrupulous company swindled the inventor, after which he refused to let them be manufactured except directly under his control. For those who've never encountered the original "no slip" screw design, here goes: Robertson Website - Home Page

-Gnobuddy

We use those in the cabinet shop for assembling the faceplates. Another common place you will find them are in Mobile Home trailers.

nosaj

[Dave H]

Another must-have tool on my list (also not mentioned on this thread so far) is a spring-loaded automatic centre punch

I have one of those. I once loaned it to a colleague at work. He said it was useless. I found out later he was hitting it with a hammer.

[nosaj]

I have one of those. I once loaned it to a colleague at work. He said it was useless. I found out later he was hitting it with a hammer.

Should've center punched him between the eyes. Hey look at that it works.


I have a 66/110 punchdown tool I got the center punch adapter for it years ago. You can't get them at Home Depot Ideal makes them,
nosaj

[Enzo]

I love my automatic center punch, in fact they are something I give as a gift to someones "shop-opening".

I second the square drive, here in the USA I have carried one for decades.

When I worked in the coin-operated amusements field I carried all manner of security bits.

[Steve A.]

A small 300 watt heat gun... really nice!

A small 300 watt heat gun... really nice!



1x 110V 300W Heat Gun Shrink Hot Air Temperature Electric Power Nozzles DIY Tool | eBay

For heat shrink tubing I'll usually just use a disposable lighter or my small plastic butane heat gun if I can find it and it actually has fuel. Or if I'm industrious I might even get out my butane soldering iron and switch to the hot air tip.

If I couldn't find anything else I might even get out my 5 year old 1500 watt hot air gun from Harbor Freight ($13.99) since I just burned out my 30 year old Craftsman hot air gun ($60) by not noticing that the fan didn't come on when I switched it on... ouch! Probably just a bad thermal limit switch but is it really worth the time and effort to track down the part and install it since the HF one works fine (and I have a million other projects already on my to-do list.)



https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-w...112-96289.html

I bought a 350 watt TechTron heat gun awhile back from Frys on a promo ad special for around 10 bucks but hadn't even bothered to cut it out of the clear plastic clamshell packaging that we all know and love so well...

In case you are wondering about the actual size of the hot air they included this very helpful drawing...



Wow! If you use heat shrink tubing more than occasionally I recommend this very highly. It is small and light, and has a protective plastic hood over the metal nozzle and a wire stand to protect your table or workbench.

Steve A.


P.S. The stainless steel bearings are really slick!



Description:
• Can be used to heating relief powder and shrinkable sheet.
• Keeping 3-5cm distance from work and about a 45 degree angle to heat until it is completed.
• After completion, use the heat gun at high temperature to blow a few minutes, it not only can add its hardness, but also its brightness.
• The temprature can not adjustable, in theory, it can reach at 200 degree within a few seconds.

Specification:
• Size: 24cm length
• Working temp.: 200 ℃
• Rated Power: 300W
• Rated voltage: 110V
• Type: Constant temp. hot air gun
• Plug Type: US Plug

[Steve A.]

Japanese flush cut pull saws

I bought one of these a few years ago thinking it might come in handy cutting dowels in luthiery work like replacing or moving bridge bushings. I finally got around to using it when remounting a latch on the garbage enclosure for the 4-plex I live in. I *had* thought of using my Dremel tool with a 2" cut-off blade but I figured what the heck...

It worked very well. To use it to cut dowels on a guitar top without damaging the finish a template (plastic, cardboard, thick paper) with a hole the size of the dowel could be used — cut the dowel a tad short and then tap it in with a rubber mallet. You could also sand down the finish using a thinner template so it would be nice and smooth once you tap it in. (If you are going to drill out the dowel anyway you could insert a wood screw to remove the dowel.)

BTW don't cheap out and buy a pine dowel from a hardware store — find a store that sells oak or other hard wood dowels!



https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...saw-62118.html
Use #155638 for replacement blade.

Seeing how well this $8.99 saw worked I wish I would have spent an extra $10 to get a *real* one made in Japan from Amazon. The handle on this one rotates so you can drop it 90° to make it more like a hacksaw.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEF5HM/

Steve A.

P.S. Reading the user reviews I learned that many apartment dwellers without a workshop in a garage use these saws for all sorts of things.

[Chuck H]

Using a quality model (made in Japan?) I've seen carpenters cut the bottoms of door casings to match a floor profile ALL DAY and then put the saw back in their tool box for the next service. Super sharp and made of quality steel that should stay sharp for many uses. Likely impossible to re sharpen effectively, so you just buy a new one (after a couple of years?). Again, spooky sharp. Be careful.