Tips on soldering double sided PCBs?

[Axtman]

I received the new replacment jacks from the GK amp I am working on. Remember, this is the amp with the horribly corroded jacks. I unsoldered the jack and hopefully did not screw up the traces in the holes. Since the jacks are practically next to eachother, I may have a hard time soldering from the topside.

Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

[The Dude]

If you tore out a feedthrough, you'll see it still soldered to the jack pins. If you want to check to be sure, check continuity from top to bottom side of each solder point/hole before you install the new jacks. As long as you didn't damage anything, there's no need to solder the component side. If you did damage a feedthrough connection and can't get to the topside solder point with the jack installed, run a thin piece of wire through the hole before installing the jack, and solder to the component side trace to remake the connection.

[nosaj]

I received the new replacment jacks from the GK amp I am working on. Remember, this is the amp with the horribly corroded jacks. I unsoldered the jack and hopefully did not screw up the traces in the holes. Since the jacks are practically next to eachother, I may have a hard time soldering from the topside.

Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

Here's a tip. It's taken me 12 years to try ChipQuik and it's like frickin magic . It would ve save me from pulling out many vias and damaged traces. I know it is designed for SMD stuff but I used it the other day on a duall pcb for a massage chair and it was SO EASY.

https://www.chipquik.com/store/produ...ucts_id=210001

nosaj

[The Dude]

The "tip" part is desoldering. After you get the part out, if removed correctly, it's relatively easy to solder in the new part.
So, here are a couple (aside from practice). I always take a small screwdriver and wiggle the part leads in the hole to see if they move and are free from the via and component side before yanking the part out. If the lead doesn't move in the hole, it's likely still soldered to the via or topside. Don't try to remove the part until you are certain the leads are free.
Another: Although it may seem counterproductive, sometimes it helps to add solder to the joint for better heat transfer and to make it easier to remove solder all the way through the via and from the component side.

[nosaj]

The "tip" part is desoldering. After you get the part out, if removed correctly, it's relatively easy to solder in the new part.
So, here are a couple (aside from practice). I always take a small screwdriver and wiggle the part leads in the hole to see if they move and are free from the via and component side before yanking the part out. If the lead doesn't move in the hole, it's likely still soldered to the via or topside. Don't try to remove the part until you are certain the leads are free.
Another: Although it may seem counterproductive, sometimes it helps to add solder to the joint for better heat transfer and to make it easier to remove solder all the way through the via and from the component side.

You think the flux in the new solder aids that?
nosaj

[The Dude]

It certainly doesn't hurt, especially with the lead free crap that you see these days. That stuff doesn't flow worth a ..........

[Evh5150]

Here's a tip. It's taken me 12 years to try ChipQuik and it's like frickin magic . It would ve save me from pulling out many vias and damaged traces. I know it is designed for SMD stuff but I used it the other day on a duall pcb for a massage chair and it was SO EASY.

https://www.chipquik.com/store/produ...ucts_id=210001

nosaj

good info thanks

[Evh5150]

I received the new replacment jacks from the GK amp I am working on. Remember, this is the amp with the horribly corroded jacks. I unsoldered the jack and hopefully did not screw up the traces in the holes. Since the jacks are practically next to eachother, I may have a hard time soldering from the topside.

Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

Dear, I am in the same learning what to do and what not to do with a board that uses rails, both learning to place them is useful and also something very useful to have a soldering iron that can regulate the temperature and verify at what temperature the tin melts, no everyone has that information and many times we apply 350 degrees to a tin that can withstand 200 degrees, something I don't know and it's because I'm learning every day how hot a track rises, you can also learn to repair tracks, you have an anti-desoldering mask that It is the green enamel that all the plates come with, which dries with a uv light.

I have been learning everything on YouTube some people have impressive techniques, what I like the most is to see how to repair cell phones you learn a lot about materials, tools, accessories.

[DrGonz78]

Most of the time it’s the ground plane that works hard against you as a heat sink. So you look at this component with 3 tiny legs, should be a cinch to get out. But one of those legs is connected to a nice pad of copper. So chip quick is the best but even then… cutting the legs helps and angled needle nose helps immensely. Especially with that nasty lead free solder it never wants to be your friend.

[Chuck H]

I can't help but notice how often problems with the lead free solder are mentioned. And I also read that there are solder related reliability problems with anything made using it. Considering how much DNR stuff probably ends up in land fills (or eventually will) because of this solder and the extra heat and processes it takes to use it I have a hard time thinking it's environmentally friendly. I know the idea is to keep lead out of the water table but I can't imagine extra plastics and other chemicals as well as a bigger carbon footprint is musch better.

[Helmholtz]

No one likes to hand solder lead free stuff.

It took my company (i.e. our QC and soldering process experts) some time and effort to adjust/optimize lead free process parameters and materials for the soldering machines in our plants.
But finally retouching as well as field failure statistics showed no significant failure increase over the earlier leaded solder data.

Will say that lead free products are not necessarily less reliable.

[Mick Bailey]

Here's an interesting study on the subject. My own experience is that more recent alloys and processes have improved and it's mainly older equipment that fails where there was insufficient data on the long-term reliability of lead-free soldering. Failure seems to be characterised by circular cracks around component legs and the embrittlement of the joint, sometimes resulting in a gritty, dull-grey appearance. Removal and resoldering with a modern lead-free rework solder or lead/tin/silver alloy (which I prefer) results in a joint that's much more durable.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6735330/

[Tom Phillips]

... Since the jacks are practically next to eachother, I may have a hard time soldering from the topside. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

In answer to this original question I'd like to comment that you only need to solder from one side of a double sided board IF the PC board utilizes plated through holes. Plated through holes are the norm for modern boards and, with the proper heating they allow the solder to wick into the hole such that you can see the solder on both sides of the board after you have applied solder to only one side.