Not saying it's a bad deal if that's what you're looking for. Just understand it's an auto transfomer and not an isolation transformer, It won't provide isolation if you're, for instance, working on SMPS circuits.
"I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
My thoughts:
It lists input voltage as 110V. (Living in the past)
In one place is says 2000VA in another 1000VA. Suspicious. I do not believe the 2000VA figure.
No experience with that one and can't even access the link (seems Home Depot is region locked), but for anyone that takes the gamble - I've frequently seen on cheaper east-asian variacs that the fuse is installed incorrectly - on the input rather than on the output. Variacs have two maximum ratings - the max VA, and the max current the wiper will support. Because of transformer action, the input VA is the same as the output VA (plus losses), therefore the current when at reduced output voltage is higher than the input current. For instance if you set the output for say 10V into a 0.1Ω load, with a wall voltage of 120V, the input current will only be ~8.4A, but the wiper will be handling 100A, overheating it and buring out turns. I've seen a number of cheap variacs that have been destroyed in this manner that most likely would have survived had they been wired correctly, so something to check if you purchase one.
Of course, quite valid to have both an output AND input fuse, but the output fuse is absolutely mandatory.
I am considering buying this variac and replacing the digital volt meter with a digital volt/amp/watt meter.
I have a bench variable AC supply with large voltage and current analog meters built in. I also use a Kill A Watt meter plugged in between the variable output and the load. This set up provides digital readout of Voltage, Current, Wattage and VA. The compromise is that the Kill A Watt doesn't turn on until the voltage reaches around 38V. This is not an issue for most of my work.
Kill a watts work great. Don't leave them plugged in 24-7. One of mine locked up left on in the garage and never worked after that, it could have been on for a month or power surge wiped it out.
Kill a watts work great. Don't leave them plugged in 24-7. One of mine locked up left on in the garage and never worked after that, it could have been on for a month or power surge wiped it out.
That's a shame that yours failed. They have a feature that monitors power usage by day, week, month, or year so they are intended to be left connected for long periods of time.
Maybe it was a fluke, or the garage door motor/ Dremel/ drill press/compressor was sending big spikes through the line. I too use one with a variac, never had a use for a dim bulb tester. Actually just gave away a variac with no case, think I'm down to 3 now. There's a lot out there even new in the box at hamfests. I would take a older one over a Chinese made one any day.
I can't say anything about the product, but VEVOR is the new amazon/alibaba/conglomerate re-seller. I purchased a handrail from them for my front porch (good deal, but off-topic), and now get tons of email ads for a wide variety of stuff; they can sell you anything! Does that mean the product is inferior? No, but it means that you or I will never know who actually made the product or if their engineering is any good. So buyer beware...
If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken. - Steve Conner
If the thing works, stop fixing it. - Enzo
We need more chaos in music, in art... I'm here to make it. - Justin Thomas
MANY things in human experience can be easily differentiated, yet *impossible* to express as a measurement. - Juan Fahey
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