Meanwhile in Las Vegas...

[Helmholtz]

Right on - take the dusty work outdoors! Dig the darlington schemo T shirt too.

Looks like a Fuzzface circuit to me.

[Leo_Gnardo]

Looks like a Fuzzface circuit to me.

Could be that. I'm sure John will enlighten us soon enough. Cascaded transistors - lots 'o gain. Make mine germanium!

[Helmholtz]

Make mine germanium!

They are! Looks like AC128s.

[g1]

What happened to the snow? A place where cold means not being able to wear shorts?

[John_H]

Right on - take the dusty work outdoors! Dig the darlington schemo T shirt too.

I used to have a dedicated workshop. My space is very limited anymore. All of the woodwork is done outside. I have my stationary tools under a covered patio, and the dozens of other power tools are stored in totes. It's a pain sometimes, but is what it is.

Just a personal opinion:

Having owned (still have a few) and played many Gibson LPs, I always preferred the ones with the ABR-1 bridge over the Nashville T-O-M. The ABR seems to couple better with the wood and produces a fuller (woodier?) less metallic sound. Its threaded studs are in direct contact with the top, while the Nashville is suspended on metal inserts that don't couple very well.
Also I don't like the pot metal saddles of the Nashville.

I tried locking bridges but found that they neither improve sound nor sustain.

One of the best sounding ABR bridges is the Gibson Historic part. But the Allparts version compares very well.

Unfortunately the ABR design depends on tight tolerances (press fit of saddles) of its components and sometimes you may find a rattling saddle. Gibson also sells the (unnotched) saddles separately and I always keep some spares.

I also prefer a lightweight aluminum stop-tailpiece.

Good points. I set aside the Nashville T-O-M because I originally intended to string it through the body. They're thinner and better suited. That's no longer my intention though. I'll look through my stuff. I have a bunch of bridges.

Looks like a Fuzzface circuit to me.

Could be that. I'm sure John will enlighten us soon enough. Cascaded transistors - lots 'o gain. Make mine germanium!

They are! Looks like AC128s.

It's a Fuzz Face. Only a true gear head will recognize this shirt. Fuzz pedals are my newest obsession. The shirt fits literally, and figuratively.

What happened to the snow? A place where cold means not being able to wear shorts?

A week later it was in the 70's. From now on, You keep your weather up there where it belongs.

[Helmholtz]

I set aside the Nashville T-O-M because I originally intended to string it through the body.

I think if the string height at the bridge (depending on neck angle) is not too low, an ABR-1 with a stop tailpiece is the better solution. Also a stop-tailpiece allows to vary the string kink angle at the bridge, which influences sound and feel.

[John_H]

I sorted through the 25 or so T-O-M's in my parts collection. Three of them were vintage wired abr-1's. One of them has new saddles. I've got 7 brand new BR-EG asian bridges that Ibanez used about 15 years ago. Most of these came from an estate sale a few years ago.

I also found a new aluminum wireless Gotoh ABR replacement in the pile.

[Helmholtz]

Looks similar to my bridges collection. I would go for the vintage wired abr-1. Some people complain about wire rattling, but I found that a little bending prevents this. Actually the wire is a useful thing, as it prevents saddles from falling off.

Original abr-1 saddles are made from machined brass (and nickel plated). I even experimented with titanium saddles but didn't like the sound.
Asian bridges often have cheap cast zinc alloy saddles. And I prefer to file my own notches for best string spacing/alignment and sound. So I tend to avoid pre-notched saddles.
Also the stud spacings may not be compatible even if bridges look alike.

[Chuck H]

Looks similar to my bridges collection. I would go for the vintage wired abr-1. Some people complain about wire rattling, but I found that a little bending prevents this. Actually the wire is a useful thing, as it prevents saddles from falling off.

Original abr-1 saddles are made from machined brass (and nickel plated). I even experimented with titanium saddles but didn't like the sound.
Asian bridges often have cheap cast zinc alloy saddles. And I prefer to file my own notches for best string spacing/alignment and sound. So I tend to avoid pre-notched saddles.
Also the stud spacings may not be compatible even if bridges look alike.

I just want to say that your dedication to the craft as it applies to this genre is and has been a great new asset to this forum. And that I've tried to offer rep points to your profile at many opportunities, but the forum keeps telling me I have "spread some reputation points around" before allowing me to give more to you Just know that I would and you deserve them.

[John_H]

Looks similar to my bridges collection. I would go for the vintage wired abr-1. Some people complain about wire rattling, but I found that a little bending prevents this. Actually the wire is a useful thing, as it prevents saddles from falling off.

I'm not worried about the wire. Like you said, It's not hard to fix a rattle. I have a very large collection of used guitar parts. Much more than I will ever use, but when doing repairs, or building something for myself, it's nice to have the stockpile. My jaw hit the floor when I saw what the vintage bridges were selling for on ebay. I've got everthing I need, but I'll need to buy a stop-tail for this guitar. I don't like any of the ones that I have. I too prefer aluminum.

Original abr-1 saddles are made from machined brass (and nickel plated). I even experimented with titanium saddles but didn't like the sound.

I know what you mean! I tried some graphite saddles once, and that didn't last long.

Asian bridges often have cheap cast zinc alloy saddles. And I prefer to file my own notches for best string spacing/alignment and sound. So I tend to avoid pre-notched saddles.
Also the stud spacings may not be compatible even if bridges look alike.

The only thing that isn't zinc on these Asian bridges that I have is the screws, and wire. I don't like zinc parts, and avoid them when I can. The spacing on the vintage gibson ABR-1's that I have is 73.8 mm. The Gotoh, a tone pros, and the Asian bridges are all 74. The 4 Schaller Nashville bridges are 74.3 I didn't bother measuring the cheap stuff with the 8mm posts

I just want to say that your dedication to the craft as it applies to this genre is and has been a great new asset to this forum. And that I've tried to offer rep points to your profile at many opportunities, but the forum keeps telling me I have "spread some reputation points around" before allowing me to give more to you Just know that I would and you deserve them.

I agree Chuck, Hr. Helmholtz has been an amazing asset to the forum. I recognized this, and began to follow his posts when he first arrived.

[Helmholtz]

I've got everthing I need, but I'll need to buy a stop-tail for this guitar. I don't like any of the ones that I have. I too prefer aluminum.

Gotoh makes one of the nicest. The dimensional quality of many other makes (including the Gibson historic part) is inconsistent.

I tried some graphite saddles once, and that didn't last long.

Same with me. Tried the GraphTec sadlles, but found them to dull the sound.


Thanks for appreciation!

[John_H]

I haven't had a Telecaster for a few years. Neither has my guitar building buddy. A couple of weeks ago we were lamenting this problem, and decided to build a couple. I've got a few stewmac neck blanks, pre-slotted fingerboards, and dual acting truss rods that came from a local friend who decided that building guitars was more difficult than assembling them, and gave it up. I made up a pair of 2 piece alder bodies for them. I had a nice plank to work with, very stable with uniform grain, and not very heavy.

Sure, it would be easier to build a partscaster, or just buy a tele, but I'd rather have one that's mine. For the most part it will be a spec tele. 50's style double bound Shell Pink. Maple fretboard. Most of the parts showed up in the last couple of days. I've ordered a bare fender american three saddle bridge, and some compensated saddles to go along. The new fender elite tele's have a curved neck plate. I splurged and bought the genuine article for this one. I'll flip the control plate. I had my last tele like that, and liked it. I've got pickup parts on hand. I'll wind a set when the time comes.

The two alder tele blanks, and the mahogany all needed to be surfaced. I've got a nice surface planer that will cut 13" wide, but choose to use a router sled. A surface planer because of the close proximity of the feed rollers will not take a slight twist out of a piece of wood. On the other hand, a router sled allows you to mill one perfectly flat surface, then turn it over to machine other side. The finished product is flat, and uniform in thickness. This weekend I hope to rout the body cavity on the mahogany, and get all three cut out on the band saw.

[John_H]

Hello Everyone, I finished a couple of guitars. The Tele is a parts guitar. The body was a birthday present. It's Paulownia, extremely light. 2.1lbs. I bought an unfinished neck from Guitar Fetish, and used all Fender parts. It weighs 4lbs. 11oz. I kept trying to talk myself out of the Shell Pink color, but I stayed with it, and glad I did. The cheap neck took a little work, but it's fine now.

[Chuck H]

Beautiful John And good to see you.

Not incidentally, how does it sound? Such a light wood body on a tele could make for some interesting tone.

[The Dude]

Ditto that on both counts- nice work as always, and great to see you here!