Got one of these, chassis only. Two(2) 6L6s, 3-12AX7s, replaced one of the screen grid resistors(burnt) with a 5w 470 ohm cement resistor. Works good now. Has lead channel only by footswitch. Has a mono cliff jack for a footswitch. Any thoughts on how to jump to get lead channel to engage? Thanks.
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JMF Spectra
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Plug any simple footswitch there, it should work.
Or a bare plug and short/open its legs.
EDIT: extra cheesyness points for making a Tube amp look exactly like an SS Peavey or Roland amp.
Makes me think of those "Twin reverb inside" Plush amps made to look EXACTLY like SS Kustom amps, naugahyde cover and all.Juan Manuel Fahey
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The cliff jack on the chassis bottom is the footswitch jack? Short the red to black and it should switch in the lead channel.
Chances are that the yellow wire tied off is for being able to kill reverb with a footswitch, but that would require a stereo cliff jack.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThe cliff jack on the chassis bottom is the footswitch jack? Short the red to black and it should switch in the lead channel.
Chances are that the yellow wire tied off is for being able to kill reverb with a footswitch, but that would require a stereo cliff jack.
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View PostAlso, was surprised that this thing produces 500+ volts DCOriginally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View Post
Of those 5 big caps, 3 are rated for 450V. Make sure none of them have more than 450V on them. Other than that, the 500+V shouldn't be a problem.
(-61vdc/-0.7mv)
(-54vdv/-0.8mv)
3-450v
(0.3mv/410vdc)
(0.4mv/457vdc)
(0.5mv/494vdc)
2-350v(largest ones)
(-0.3mv/265vdc)
(262vdc/494vdc)
Both 6L6s pins 4&6(496vdc)
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The 450V cap that has 494V on it is not a good situation. If this is with all tubes installed and the amp is otherwise working normally I would suggest replacing it with a 500V type. Does that cap get hot?Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThe 450V cap that has 494V on it is not a good situation. If this is with all tubes installed and the amp is otherwise working normally I would suggest replacing it with a 500V type. Does that cap get hot?
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Also, I replaced a burnt screen grid resistor on one 6L6 with a 470ohm 5w cement resistor, but left the other 6L6 with original resistor. Noticed that the tube I changed resistor on gets hotter than the one I didn't change. What's your thoughts on that? Thanks.
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I'm curious what you think about the two(2) rated at 350v, reading 265v & 494v?Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Well step back and look at the numbers. The cap has 262v on one end and 494v on the other. SO how many volts are across it?
494 - 262 = 232v. Sorry, I was 3v off before. SO that is still WELL within the rating of 350v for the part.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View PostAlso, I replaced a burnt screen grid resistor on one 6L6 with a 470ohm 5w cement resistor, but left the other 6L6 with original resistor. Noticed that the tube I changed resistor on gets hotter than the one I didn't change.
Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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