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Know where I can buy the schematics if not available otherwise?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
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I went to egnater.com and there was no reference to support, or that they have another website at egnateramps.com . go figure. thanks.Comment
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Egnater Schematics
Egnater Schematics
http://www.jaredcoberly.com/egnater/tech.htm
http://www.schematicheaven.com/post70s.htm
Egnater faq
http://www.jaredcoberly.com/egnater/faq.htm
Egnater support
http://www.egnateramps.com/Support.html
http://www.egnateramps.com/Warranty.html
Egnater Amp Building Seminar
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icDm6P0Kri4
Egnater Seminar Head Schematic
http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic....=26761&start=0
Egnater / Randall Modular Amps
http://www.mtsforum.grailtone.com/vi...50&topicdays=0It's All Over NowComment
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If you call Egnater and request schematics in a nice reasonable way and sound like you know what you are doing, you can get a "crippled" set of schematics that only has a few major components marked. I found it to be a good enough road-map to allow me to fix my Rebel 30 combo and it had 4 separate problems (I bought it broken, it was a "lemon" that must have been built on a Friday then dropped on its head). It works great and sounds fabulous now!
SteveComment
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Would be helpful for others if you described what problems you had and how you fixed them.Originally posted by pacAir View PostComment
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The problems were all fixed through standard troubleshooting... cracked Master Volume Control, broken and disconnected quick-disconnect connectors (wire harness bundled too tight!), several poor solder joints and a chassis-mounted transistor (buried behind the rear PC board) with a leg broken off. I worked on this amp in my spare time over a 3 month period before I tracked down all the difficulties! Each time I found an issue and fixed it I found there was another one!
When you have multiple issues like this, traditional troubleshooting methods with a schematic, multimeter, signal generator and an oscilloscope may be the only way to get through the multiple layers of circuit issues. Add to this that the cracked pot and solder joints were intermittent and occasionally responded to pressure on the PC board! The symptoms (that I recall) were intermittent audio output, intermittent Master Volume Control operation, no reverb, failure of the channel switching function and the amp would not play cleanly if the Tube Mix setting included the 6V6 side (turned to full EL84 operation sort-of worked).
I have also repaired a few Renegades that were bad out of the box and most of these issues (not including tube issues) were caused by broken or unplugged quick-disconnects which probably would not have happened if the factory didn't tie-wrap the wire bundle so tight! If nice graceful & relaxed wire-dress was used before shipment then normal handling forces (or abuse) might not cause these sorts of failures to occur. If something is too tight, it breaks! The ability to flex a little makes all the difference in the world.
SteveComment
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Hi folks I'm new to this forum. Very interesting posts on this topic! I purchase a Rebel 30 head and the 112X cab a couple of weeks ago and have been very happy with the sound, versatility, and build quality of the amp. I play in a band and sometimes we're in rooms that are a bit on the small side. My boss is a major tube fanatic and wants to see if we can get the output tubes running in triode mode on this amp so I can reduce the output volume. I've got a Weber Mini MASS 50 (excellent product) but we're both curious to devise a mod that would eliminate the need for the attenuator. ricach amd pacAir -- would you be willing to send me the schematics you have for the Rebel 30? It would be very much appreciated and we might be able to post some interesting results from our testing. Thanks very much & have a great day!Comment
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I see you are in Portland, OR. I live in Beaverton so we aren't that far apart! You should come out to Pyzano's on TV Highway in Aloha this Friday night (10/29) and hear my Rebel 30/112x mini-stack in action! :-)Originally posted by stateofwail View Post
Changing the output stage to Triode operation may not decrease the power output enough by itself to make much difference. You void your warranty as well (if you still have it in effect). The Rebel 30 112 combo is about as small a package as you can get and still get an amp of this calibre and a 12" speaker inside. As a result, it is difficult to work on and access to much of the circuitry requires completely removing both PC boards. I have spent hours inside mine and most of the time was spent documenting all the wires I had to disconnect in order to be able to put it back together!
If I were you, I would turn the power control knobs down to minimum and use your minimass 50. You would be better off taking the SEND output from the effects loop to drive a tiny sub 5 watt external amp to drive the speakers. This allows you to experiment OUTSIDE the amp without modifications TO the amp!
SteveComment
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I second Steve's recommendation to stay out of the chassis if at all possible - any mods you make you will have to first completely reinstall and reconnect EVERYTHING before you can even test it. I've been there, done that, and will avoid going there again at all costs. I guarantee you will do this twice at the most before you break something and then will spend your time troubleshooting instead. I would think the 1W-30W control is exactly what is intended for your situation. Maybe try using 12AT's or 12AU's in the preamp and see if you get the sound you want while staying within the volume constraints you have in smaller rooms.Comment
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Thanks for the recommendations. I looked at the schematic and the number of harnesses reminds me of some old Tektronix heart monitoring equipment I used to service. The machines worked well but the insides were pure spaghetti. I thought that the 1 to 30 controls would be much more useful than they've been. Perceived volume change between 1 and 30 is minimal, at best. I was able to setup in a large room and play with those controls and you can definitely hear a difference once you've got things dialed up a bit. I'll probably just stay with the Mini MASS and might play around with the line out into a very small wattage amp. The 112X cabinet is one of the most efficient I've ever used so a 1/2 to 1-watt amp might work best for the very small spaces. Thanks again for your input. It is very much appreciated!Comment
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Steve,
Interesting schematic. Lots going on. Output tubes are already running in triode mode. So much for that idea!
We're going to try to come and see a set at Pyzano's tomorrow night.
If you're interested, here's a video of me playing at Mt. Hood Village that someone posted on YouTube:
YouTube - PROBABLE CAUSE - Eruption
Thanks again!Comment
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Great! It would be fun to meet you!
With all the "special features" this amp has it isn't always clear what is going on! Once I studied the schematic fror a few minutes and realized how the "Tube Mix" function was achieved it made perfect sense... a very clever idea!
The whole "Fletcher-Munson Curve" and the concept of perceived loudness vs power is summarized pretty well by Bruce Egnater in the Tech Note #1 (Watts vs Volume) in the Egnater Manuals.
Hope to see you there tonight!
SteveComment
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Is it possible to send the schematic to me to? That would be great!Comment
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Egnater Schematics
Call Egnater and request a schematic be sent to you by email. They will only provide a schematic with virtually no component values on it so it will only help you if you know how to read schematics and can work your way around the "map" without all the "addresses"!Originally posted by Moradi2 View Post
I don't happen to have one handy right now and that's how I got mine.
SteveComment
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