Behringer Europower PMP2000 mixer

[Techknowman]

I finally got a schematic so now I know where things are and whats what.
looks like the cap that blew is the decoupling cap for one of the inputs and the shorted diode was on that same channel (left). C59 D3
So it does look like a power amp or power got pumped into the amp inputs. Caps on the side that get disconnected from the circuit when a jack is plugged in was still good. C168,C169
I replaced both input caps and all diodes. C59, C136, D4, D3,D5 , D6
On the amp section I replaced C39
I havent tested the unit because I'm waiting for a new VR39. I'm hoping the 3.5V was coming from the amp section. Which would explain the L channel but not the right. It has a unity inverter opamp that shouldn't feed the 3.5 back

[lascc61]

Hi, i am luis from Mexico,somebody can post the Schematic from Behringer _ PMP2000? I am a technician and i need to fix the amplifier section. Please, sorry my english is poor.

[Steve L]

Behringer Power Amp Modules

Here are a bunch of power amp module schematics. One of these should be the one you are looking for.

Behringer DPA400 Digital Power Amp (Rev.F) Schematic.pdf
Behringer HCA2400 Digital Power Amp (Rev.F) Schematic.pdf
Behringer P2502 Power Amp Module Schematics.pdf

Steve

[Enzo]

Yeah, third one looks like the one.

[nosaj]

Looks like the power amp schematic was missing in this thread. I was able to find another copy and now am uploading it here.

nosaj396627703-behringer-p2502-poweramp-module-sch-pdf.pdf396627703-behringer-p2502-poweramp-module-sch-pdf.pdf

[g1]

[QUOTE=nosaj;523776]Looks like the power amp schematic was missing in this thread. I was able to find another copy and now am uploading it here.
Not working, clear.gif You'll need to zip it.

[nosaj]

[QUOTE=g1;523782]

Looks like the power amp schematic was missing in this thread. I was able to find another copy and now am uploading it here.
Not working, clear.gif You'll need to zip it.

396627703-behringer-p2502-poweramp-module-sch-pdf.zip
Try this.

nosaj

[nosaj]

Does anyone know if the fan always run on this model or if it is temperature sensitive to start fan.
This thing runs in a bingo hall, I had to take an old toothbrush and an air nozzle to blow out the heatsink and fan.(nasty cigarrettes) The fan is starting to gum up some most likely will replace it.

nosaj

[Enzo]

Peel the label off the hub to expose the axle, a drop of super light oil or even some Deoxit might free it up.


Look at the schematic, the fan is controlled by thermistors R28,29.

[nosaj]

Peel the label off the hub to expose the axle, a drop of super light oil or even some Deoxit might free it up.


Look at the schematic, the fan is controlled by thermistors R28,29.

Because of the environment would it be a bad thing if the fan always ran?

So how does r29 r28 work? As they get warmer their resistance increases making ground electrically disappear and as it cools off loosing resistance and ground reappearing? Which in turn works the base of t22 switching the fan on or off?

Thanks,
nosaj

[Enzo]

Always fan, sure, why not? You could just hard wire it for always on.

The fan is wired between VCC- and T23. The more T23 conducts, the more fan. The more T22 conducts, the more it turns on T23. The hotter the thermistors get, the lower the resistance, so they heat up and pull on the base of T22, which speeds up the fan.

[J M Fahey]

Constant running fans are fine, as any PC supply can attest, but sometimes a bedroom warrior (hint, 60 dB ambient noise or less) buys needlessly powerful amps (typically >200W Bass or PA or even 100W Marshall which use CPU sized heatsinks) and their delicate snowflake ears complain about the "unbearable roar" (which would be absolutely BURIED in a 100/110B stage or rehearsal room) .
Hence the thermally controlled fan, which keeps it OFF while heatsinks are stone cold, think 1 to 10 W RMS output.
Meaning they never turn ON in a typical bedroom.

But a Bingo Hall? second most noisiest place after a Rock Concert ... those fine Ladies sure can scream whether they win or lose, thay will let YOU know about it

Try to repair it as is, but straight wiring won´t cause any complaint

[nosaj]

Constant running fans are fine, as any PC supply can attest, but sometimes a bedroom warrior (hint, 60 dB ambient noise or less) buys needlessly powerful amps (typically >200W Bass or PA or even 100W Marshall which use CPU sized heatsinks) and their delicate snowflake ears complain about the "unbearable roar" (which would be absolutely BURIED in a 100/110B stage or rehearsal room) .
Hence the thermally controlled fan, which keeps it OFF while heatsinks are stone cold, think 1 to 10 W RMS output.
Meaning they never turn ON in a typical bedroom.

But a Bingo Hall? second most noisiest place after a Rock Concert ... those fine Ladies sure can scream whether they win or lose, thay will let YOU know about it

Try to repair it as is, but straight wiring won´t cause any complaint

I did find some 220uf 50v caps hidden(actually fallen in the back of the bins) replaced them, blew out all the heatsinks and fan, put down new thermal grease and so far it's running well over an hour now. Guy wants to run it all day , says it runs 15hrs a day and it's in Panama City Beach which is 2 hrs from here. So we will see where we're at this evening.

Initial turn on and the fan starts as soon as power is applied. I did not modify anything, just cleaned an replaced burst caps.

nosaj

[Gae]

Hello,

I'v been reading this post about a Behringer pmx 2000. Many thanks.
I do found some schematics, not complete, anyway I have a strange problem with it.

I have a small repair workshop in the Basque country, I street with the pandemia and it goes on slowly.

The fact with this mixer is that is make a quite audible HUmmm on both channels (no variations with volume) who get louder for a few seconds a few seconds after I disconnect it. How is that ?
When it's ON all the Peak lights are on and stays so, without signal.
No sound is coming out (apart of the Hummm)
Power amp DO work, so it`s the mixer/preamp unit that fails.
+15v -15v is OK, +5v also.
I'v tried to insert a sine wave in different channels: I got the signal on the 1st OP (IC30 pin 1 and 7) but it get lost just after that.
I have DC current on pin 1 of almost every OP amps ?? Shortcut ? 30v between pins 4-8
Very strange: if I connect the sine wave to ground it sound through the speaker with power OFF !!
I know someone changed the Fx selector and put one without switch, the numbers are showed on the led but no way to change effect (easy repair: I'll change the selector)

Mesurent:
Speaker Output: Vpp: 200mV. between 35 and 250Hz. When it turn off: 500mV.
OP (almost all of them): pin 1-Gnd: 14V DC. Pin 4-8: 14V. I do have +15v -15v from power section.
Its clear there is some shortcut/mass problem somewhere ... How ca I find it ??

I assume I am quite lost and don't know what else to try. What really wonder me is that it occurs on ALL channels. And the
If any one has an idea on what to do, I'll be very glad. Maybe give it back to the owner telling him there is no repair possible ??? I'v lost a few hours on that ...

Many thanks.

[Gae]

It's like I'v got all the signal to ground. ... how to find where is this whatever shortcut to ground ... this is the question.