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Carlsbro GLX 100 schematic

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  • Carlsbro GLX 100 schematic

    I've bought a "Carlsbro Glx 100" two years ago, and last week the amplifer, failed. While I was playing with the amplifier suddenly it lost tension and it was sounding very down, two minutes later, it recuperate his normal level. It have happened more times. I have a friend with the same amplifier, and he has the same problem. What can I do? Does someone know where can I find Carlsbro GLX 100 schematic?

  • #2
    This might help, i've got a GLX 150 (head) and there's a thermal switch (like a thermostat) that reduces the power because the amp might be overheating, so, in your case, those two minutes were long enough for it to cool down and restore to full power. Potentially you could by-pass the thermal switch but, it is there for a reason.

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    • #3
      If the amp signal out & signal return, jumper the jacks.
      If this solves the problem, the jacks need cleaning or replacement.
      Not that it was not a heat issue.
      Was the amp being used hard?

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      • #4
        RW

        No, the amp has been used at normal level, and the jacks are ok, I've just cheked it

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        • #5
          I think the problem is on the transistor TDA7923, I've readed on the datsheet that it has a thermic protection system, and I think it may be alterated

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          • #6
            Check the "TDA7923" again as i can't find any datasheet for it on the web (might be a typo on your behalf). I think it's an operational amplifier DIP chip rather than a transistor anyway. If you do decide to change it, solder a chip holder instead of soldering the new chip in place then just press the chip into it. (the right way round of course)

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            • #7
              Most probably a TDA7293.
              I would not recommend a socket.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                @ Jazz P Bass
                I't just a suggestion in case the new chip get damaged during soldering if a newbie does it, at the end of the day that's what the chip sockets are for.

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                • #9
                  It's a power IC: The socket should withstand several amperes of current and have utmost reliability concerning intermittency or oxidation of contacts, otherwise things can fail catastrophically in an eyblink. A soldered connection is way more reliable and pretty much an industry standard. Too "newbie" to handle the required work without a socket, then take the amp to someone who is not.

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                  • #10
                    Ah...I though it was a medium power op amp DIP package, just opened the pdf in the previous message. I searched for something along the lines of TDA79?? and TDA 7910 was the only thing that came up, sorry

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                    • #11
                      Sorry, it's the TDA7293, I write it wrong

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