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  • Behringer GMX210

    Hello,

    I'm trying to repair a Behringer V-TONE GMX210 amp for a customer. I'm looking for the part numbers for the 2 pots/rotary swithches/whatever and knobs for the FX section of the amp (the two nearest the power switch). The customer has broken them off. Or, if someone has a link to the service manual/schematic, I'm perfectly willing to get them myself. I've searched the web high and low and can't find the info anywhere (as with most Behringer gear).

    Thanks in Advance!
    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

  • #2
    Look at the part closely, then search encoders in Mouser. FInd any similar?

    I got no part numbers. The schemo just says PRESET and FX MIX. And they are drawn as encoders.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

    Comment


    • #3
      Try searching Fullcompass.com which is the distributor for Behringer repair parts. This MIGHT be the one:
      Behringer Y32 30025 09451 ENCODER,V AMP,PRO,BASS | Full Compass
      Search "Behringer" for the full list of parts. It takes a lot of time to look at the full list.

      Comment


      • #4
        Late gettin' back to the party here, but I took Enzo's advice and found them at Mouser. The part number is 652-PEC124230F-N0024 if anybody else is ever looking. Thanks for your help guys!
        "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

        Comment


        • #5
          i have repaired them things fairly easily...take a couple pieces of nylon toothpick, and stick it in the hollow part of the shaft still in the amp with a smidge of crazy glue..
          then do the same with the broken off knob, and CAREFULLY put it back together and apply a little pressure while turning the encoder. works great, i've fixed my v-ampire that way several times now, and have had no prob with the pots re-breaking.

          Comment


          • #6
            Might work if the customer actually has or brings you the broken shafts and knobs, but not the story in my case.
            Also, for the price of these things from Mouser and if you have the right tools, it's just as easy (if not easier) to just replace them.
            I do, however, appreciate your input. One cannot complain about free advice! Thanks again, all!
            "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

            Comment


            • #7
              all good, dude!!

              i just figured i'd share my experience...and it's a bonus, cuz now i've learned where to get the correct parts!!

              but...what the hell were they thinking when they designed this crap? lol...

              i know uli designs to hit a price point, but .....hello????

              i actually wrote them on facebook and told 'em their gear sounds great, but is as road worthy as trying to load boxcar full of elephants on the back of a slug.

              Comment


              • #8
                Well, they are not the only ones using those same parts.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi!
                  If someone have problem with broken pots (encoders) I make photo for repair.I wish to order encoder, but shipping cost 10 times more than encoder.I was angry and deside to solve this problem other way.
                  Just follow pictures and tekst.it is easy, but take some time.
                  BUT YOU MUST FROM THE END TO START, beacuse pictures not in correct order.But this is all.Good luck and reapiring without buying new encoders!
                  Zoran

                  Shrani.si - Brezpla?na spletna shramba za va?e slike

                  P.s. sorry for some mistake in my bad English.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by zoranrataj2000 View Post
                    Hi!
                    If someone have problem with broken pots (encoders) I make photo for repair.I wish to order encoder, but shipping cost 10 times more than encoder.I was angry and deside to solve this problem other way.
                    Just follow pictures and tekst.it is easy, but take some time.
                    BUT YOU MUST FROM THE END TO START, beacuse pictures not in correct order.But this is all.Good luck and reapiring without buying new encoders!
                    Zoran

                    Shrani.si - Brezpla?na spletna shramba za va?e slike

                    P.s. sorry for some mistake in my bad English.
                    hi zoran,

                    there's an even easier, quicker way to repair these.

                    get some nylon toothpicks and some crazy glue.

                    cut the toothpicks into pieces long enough to fit in the shaft of the encoder and the broken part inside the knob. make sure it doesn't quite "bottom out" in the encoder side.

                    insert them into the knob part first, so that they can just fit in the two broken parts of the shaft. glue with a drop of crazy glue inside the knob part first.

                    carefully add a drop to the ends sticking out of the knob/broken shaft, and stick this into the broken shaft part of the encoder...while holding it under a little pressure, turn the knob slightly so it can't freeze the encoder...the nylon won't stick to the wiper in the encoder if you keep it moving,

                    once it's together, let it set for an hour, or better, overnite. done deal.

                    the nylon won't stick to either the broken shaft or the guts of the encoder, but will add stability to them hollow pieces of crap, and allow you to mend the broken parts of the shaft.

                    i have a v-ampire, all the knobs have broken off at some point. i've used this method to fix them, and never had another break...tho on one, the crazy glue eventually failed, and i had to add another drop...but this has been 10 years now since the first one sheared off, and it's still good!

                    hope it helps you or somebody in the future...these are great amps other than these cheap ass encoders.

                    peace

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pinkjimiphoton View Post
                      hi zoran,

                      there's an even easier, quicker way to repair these.

                      get some nylon toothpicks and some crazy glue.

                      cut the toothpicks into pieces long enough to fit in the shaft of the encoder and the broken part inside the knob. make sure it doesn't quite "bottom out" in the encoder side.

                      insert them into the knob part first, so that they can just fit in the two broken parts of the shaft. glue with a drop of crazy glue inside the knob part first.

                      carefully add a drop to the ends sticking out of the knob/broken shaft, and stick this into the broken shaft part of the encoder...while holding it under a little pressure, turn the knob slightly so it can't freeze the encoder...the nylon won't stick to the wiper in the encoder if you keep it moving,

                      once it's together, let it set for an hour, or better, overnite. done deal.

                      the nylon won't stick to either the broken shaft or the guts of the encoder, but will add stability to them hollow pieces of crap, and allow you to mend the broken parts of the shaft.

                      i have a v-ampire, all the knobs have broken off at some point. i've used this method to fix them, and never had another break...tho on one, the crazy glue eventually failed, and i had to add another drop...but this has been 10 years now since the first one sheared off, and it's still good!

                      hope it helps you or somebody in the future...these are great amps other than these cheap ass encoders.

                      peace
                      Crazy glue is NOT the best adhesive for the encoder shafts. Crazy glue (Cyanacrylate) is fairly brittle and doesn't adhere all that well to the shaft material. Better adhesives are the solvent based adhesives and also things like JB Weld. A lot of the encoders are available from sources like Digikey, Mouser, etc. but shipping can triple the cost even though the part cost is nominal.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by fredy2 View Post
                        Crazy glue is NOT the best adhesive for the encoder shafts. Crazy glue (Cyanacrylate) is fairly brittle and doesn't adhere all that well to the shaft material. Better adhesives are the solvent based adhesives and also things like JB Weld. A lot of the encoders are available from sources like Digikey, Mouser, etc. but shipping can triple the cost even though the part cost is nominal.


                        But I did not write for any glue.This repair (which I suggested) is without any glue.And most important is: everyone can do this.
                        If you changeing encoder you must soldering and you need tools and practice.
                        And with new encoder, they will broken very easy again.With my repair, probably will never broke again.DIY and follow my photos.
                        Zoran

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                        • #13
                          this may help
                          encoders SW1A & SW2A are on page 3, location E6
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            Hello: I have a Behringer Vampire Lx-112 that will turn on but there is no sound. I do not know what is wrong with it. Is there anyway that you can help me? I want to take it apart and start repairing it but I do not know where to begin. Please help!!
                            Last edited by ; 01-25-2013, 01:50 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              i would reccomend contacting behringer to see if they can give you any schematics to start.
                              they're basically more computer than amp, i haven't looked inside of mine, but i imagine it's all SMD stuff...harder to work on, but not impossible.

                              first things first, try the headphone jack, see if you get signal.

                              if you do, use a patch cord and jump the effects loop, see if you get sound. if so, clean everything thoroughly with plastic safe pot cleaner.

                              other than that, you'll have to audio probe your way thru it. gonna be hard tho, if it's SMD's in there.

                              good luck man!!

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