The original Trace Elliot is gone. The brand is now owned by Peavey, so maybe Peavey customer service can help you? Or maybe Lowell can tell you what e-mail address he used.
"Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"
Seems to be in the primary. To be honest, since the unit has been tempered with, I don't think it is worth getting lost in conjectures until a schematic proves me that everything has been connected back to where it should.
So... still looking
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De rien.
Et moi aussi je suis Francophone .
Ma Grandmêre ètait née Jourdan .
Même ça on continue en Anglais pour les amis.
160mA is a small value fuse, so it may feed the +/- 15V preamp lines, in which case there should be another, same value, nobody will fuse just one; *or* it's the HV rail fuse for the tube.
Measure voltage on both ends of the fuse just to see what you are facing.
Agree with you that it's a *very* complex Digital Amp, fed from an SMPS , think that even with the schematic you will be quite limited as to what you can do.
Is it beyond warranty coverage?
Do they suggest some Service Center?
Even if it were an older Laney amp, they were fond of using SMT parts, so I imagine now it will be worse.
I just love Buenos Aires and its fantastic melting pot of cultures! And the alfajores, the empanadas, etc, etc...
Anyway, the amp has been to Peavey several times for repair with no luck and this is why the shop gave it to me...
The 160mA is the only one of that value and the fuse holder has more or less 137V on its pins. the other taps have voltage and the "light show" system works.
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Good.
137V DC or AC? Very different situations !!!
2 options:
1) Suppose it's DC.
follow those tracks both ways.
One "receives" 137V , they are already rectified and filtered, so no problem on that side.
The other end does not have many places to go.
Certainly towards the tube, and along the way it probably is filtered with some electrolytic to ground.
Which may be shorted.
Just for kicks, measure resistance from that fuse end to ground. Without the fuse, of course.
2) suppose it's AC
Then it must run into some diode and caps, either of which may be shorted.
So, in a nutshell, you *can* grab quite a few suspects and test them.
Even without a circuit.
3) Worst case: you can't repair the preamp, but I guess the Power amp and cabinet still work; use them to power some preamp or small head or pedalboard you have.
Just plug into the "power in" or Loop Return.
Try this now, even before digging into the preamp.
Bonne chance !! (ou m*rd* !)
After research, it turns out that the 160mA fuse holder where two wires are connected is not supposed to hold a fuse (concluded without the schematic!). That's why I couldn't work it out. Unfortunately, Peavey replied but can't help and Trace Elliot still doesn't want to manifest itself.
Anyway, the signal goes to the PA, there are no burnt fuses or components, the voltage supply is present. I don't think I am going to waste more of my time on it as long as I don't have a proper schematic!
I'll keep you posted if I get it.
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Fine with me.
Does it work as a powered box at least? (Feeding some external preamp signal into the power amp or loop in)
Worst case, use it to add some extra power to another bass amp.
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