Wanted 4 Kustom III Lead Vintage Amp - Schematic and/or Parts List

[mikelazich]

My apology if I've posted twice, but I can't find the original posting I did today.

If anyone can help, I need:

Schematic for a Kustom III Lead Amp Model L-PU # K180373 & Parts List if available.

This model is from the late 70's is my guess. It is covered with black tolex and has the WHITE Kustom Logo as opposed to the earlier "Scrolled Logo".

I know I can buy a schematic off a commericial dealer for $20, but I purchased this amp "DEAD" at a yard sale for a few dollars, so I don't to throw good money after bad if any proprietary parts are needed, etc. It has huge caps in it, so if one of those are bad -- it's probably costs more than the amp is worth these day, although some folks on web suggest these models are "under the radar" for a decent clean sound.

OVER HEATING:

Does anyone have suggestions as to how to address the over-heating problem this amp experiences (according to what I read on the web) without butchering it. It has no ventilation holes, etc. whatsoever.

Thanks in advance for any help. It's appreciated.

Mike

[soundguruman]

My apology if I've posted twice, but I can't find the original posting I did today.

If anyone can help, I need:

Schematic for a Kustom III Lead Amp Model L-PU # K180373 & Parts List if available.

This model is from the late 70's is my guess. It is covered with black tolex and has the WHITE Kustom Logo as opposed to the earlier "Scrolled Logo".

I know I can buy a schematic off a commericial dealer for $20, but I purchased this amp "DEAD" at a yard sale for a few dollars, so I don't to throw good money after bad if any proprietary parts are needed, etc. It has huge caps in it, so if one of those are bad -- it's probably costs more than the amp is worth these day, although some folks on web suggest these models are "under the radar" for a decent clean sound.

OVER HEATING:

Does anyone have suggestions as to how to address the over-heating problem this amp experiences (according to what I read on the web) without butchering it. It has no ventilation holes, etc. whatsoever.

Thanks in advance for any help. It's appreciated.

Mike

You have an old amp where aged capacitors may be shutting down the bias, also lots of oxidized contact surfaces.. If you want to resurrect something like that be prepared to put lots of time and money into it, including paying for schematics...it seems.
It's not ventilation holes you need, when it works correctly it does not overheat.
You have to decide to put all that into it, and it's not worth anything (not much anyhow) even in working condition.

[Enzo]

What you need to do is provide us the board numbers. Kustom numbers all their circuit boards, PCxxx. So if you see PC5033 or PC107, that is what we need.

The main filter caps are large in size, but the same rated caps today are much smaller physically.


If it is dead, then my first check would be to see if the power transformer functions. Is the primary open? Disconnect the secondary and power it up. Will it do that OK and make voltages on the secondary? You don;t need a schematic to go that far. A 40v winding is not going to make 56 volts if the tranny is "bad". You either have open windings, or shorted ones blowing fuses, or mostly it works.