looking for an ashdown five fifteen schematic

[Onepercenter]

Bonjour, First time for me here so take it easy on me.........
so, bought a cheap five fifteen, tested it and it worked well but was lacking a bit in power I thought so when I had some spare time I took a look inside.... was a real mess....cap juice everywhere. Anyway changed all the caps and cleaned up and the amp was working well until last week...blew a fuse. I am not trained in your art so I would really like a schematic and a little advice.
cheers for any help!

[oc disorder]

Hi onepercenter I will try to improve your percentage but there are others whom are more experienced!
Firstly the gunk around the capacitors is glue yes glue to hold down the capacitors so when you are really fanging into it they don't wobble and break the mounting/connecting wires.
It has fets in it and I would suggest it needs to go to someone with knowledge about bias silicon pads etc.
Just realised there are different models I'll attach a schematic I was sent but for memory
it didn't represent a recent one and seemed to be a version of a Trace Elliot which now I cannot find !

For memory the one I saw had fet o/p devices the schematic doesn't show this.

I am sure some of these had to be modified to make stable.

[Onepercenter]

thanks! feel a bit silly now didn't realise ashdown employed people with no fingers in the glue department that glue was everywhere, like I said I am no tech and just thought they were burst caps. funny thing is I took the amp back to the lad when I saw the caps and told the lad the caps had burst, he gave me half the money back if I wanted to fix it!
would still like a schematic though if anyone has one cheers

[oc disorder]

Yes it does look a bit messy ..If you could tell us (the forum) what the numbers are on the transistors that are screwed to the heat sink with 3 "legs" coming out.

Like TIP ??? , IRF ??? or BD ??? . I did attach the schematic I had but considering the revisions it will be very helpful to know at least what the output devices are.
Japanese transistors are usually marked A ???? ,B ???? , C ???? and guess..D ????
That's an abbreviation for 2SA ???? through to 2SD ???? which is the actual data sheet
number.

[Onepercenter]

TIP 142 TIP31C R TIP147
thanks for the schematic but I can't openit!!!just a big white page!

[oc disorder]

TIP 142 TIP31C R TIP147
thanks for the schematic but I can't open it!!!just a big white page!

Yes I see .. I'll try again

I think I confused the Ashdown Perfect 10 with this.
Too much Who probably ...this one has transistors not fets in the output although they are darlington type
that's like two transistors in the one package but they still have the same three labeled connections.

Need a meter to check the power supply especially the zeners.

EDIT (next day in Aust! )

Had a good look at your photo.
The schematic I posted is not your amp although there are similarities.
Your amp has a bias control and the numbering of components doesn't correspond.
The power supply looks very similar.
If you haven't all ready read this post its worth reading

http://music-electronics-forum.com/t20633/

Posted by reddwarfer29

"G’day docSanchez,

I am just posting back the results from the modifications outlined above, unfortunately the amp blew again after about 5 hours of use with the same results as before i.e TIP142 and TIP147 have shorted between the Collector and Emitter which cause the fuse to blow straight away on power up.

I managed to track down one of the local Ashdown reps and he sent me step by step instructions, good news is after doing these modifications the Amp now works perfectly. Here’s what to do:

1. Removed and discarded TR2, TR3, TR8 and TR9, then clean off the heat sink.
2. Fit a TIP142 in place of TR2 and a TIP147 in place of TR9 using Silicon pads (or Mica washer and heatsink compound ). Do not fit any components for TR3 and TR8.
3. Replace R22 and R38 resistors with the new 0R33 ( 6 watt ) resistors
4. Please ensure there are no resistors fitted in positions R24 and R36.
5. Fit a wire link between the solder pad where TR3 and R24 join; and the solder pad where TR2 and R22 join..
6. Change resistor R30 from 2K2 to 1K5 .
7. Turn the amp on with an 8 ohm load connected to the output, but with no input.... measure the voltage across R22 and R38 with a DC milli-voltmeter and adjust preset P1 for 3 mVolts on whichever is the lower, they should be between 2.5 and 3.5 mVolts.
8. Inject a signal into the input and test as usual, then play.

Hope this information helps."

I suggest you repost with your main board photo in the Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Repair section, It's most likely your 142 &147 need replacing.

EDIT : someone just told me you should request an Ashdown practice amp schematic
and an ACP004 parts document here ...hmm see its an orange not an apple!!!!
Dunno why they cant call it 5:15 final revision !

Which fuse blew one of the low voltage ones or the main power fuse ?
It's best to state this sorta thing clearly .. there are many classic misunderstandings on the forum often due to lack of attention more than anything else !

PS I've heard electronic freezer spray is good to remove glue.
It's the same principle as removing chewing gum from clothing except you don't put it in the freezer !
Freezer spray is normally used to tease a possible faulty component into a fault condition by rapidly changing its temperature.
Isopropyl alcohol is also good to clean boards with.

[Onepercenter]

Thanks a lot! really didn't expect such a rapid response. The fuse that blew: so it's an Ashdown practice amp schematic I need? I'll send a mail to planet Ashdown see if they can help. I'll repost in the Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Repair section cos I've got a couple of other questions I need help with. Thanks again!