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Schematic needed for Line6 Spider Valve HD100 DSP board

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  • Schematic needed for Line6 Spider Valve HD100 DSP board

    I am in need of the schematic for a Line6 Spider Valve HD100, particularly, the DSP board. The 3.3V supply is reading close to 0 volts and the LCD display shows all dark squares. When I substitute an external 3.3V, the system boots and runs as it should. What is the physical appearance (form factor) of the 3.3V regulator? Then, where can I purchase a couple NJM2872BF33 chips? Mouser can order, if you buy 3,000!
    Thanks!
    Last edited by RMD; 09-23-2013, 08:51 PM.

  • #2
    I don't have a schematic, but this is a common problem with those boards. I've repaired several by replacing the regulator with a higher current device. It seems to get very hot and shut down. You'll notice you can't touch it with your fingers after only a short time. You'll also notice that they use an aluminum standoff for a heat sink. After replacing the regulator, I install a longer standoff (or several small ones) giving the heat sink more mass to take more heat away from the regulator itself. I haven't had one come back yet (knock on wood).
    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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    • #3
      This supplier has them.
      Link: NJM2872BF33?TE1) | Power management IC | Switching regulator | New Japan Radio (JRC) - chip one stop
      Here is a link to the datasheet.
      Link: New Japan Radio - datasheet pdf

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      • #4
        Ahhh,....yes. Just looked at the data sheet. That is not the regulator I was referring to. I don't have a schematic or an amp in the shop to look at right now, but the regulator I was referring to is a TO220 package regulator. It might be the 5V regulator and the 3.3 is derived from it? Sorry, I don't recall. It's possible you have an entirely different problem, but what I see normally on this amp is that the regulator with the standoff heat sink is the cause of the problem.
        "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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        • #5
          Yeah, in my amp the 3.3 volts comes from a surface mount, 5-pin IC the size of a chip resistor. Should be real fun to replace using my 48 year-old eyes! I found a suitable replacement (at least I hope it is) at Mouser; it's a TI chip, TPS70933DBVR. 3.3VDC, 150mA, LDO in an itty-bitty package. In stock, and less than a buck a piece.
          Thank you.
          The original regulator by New Japan Radio was proving hard to find.
          Last edited by RMD; 09-25-2013, 03:06 PM. Reason: clarifying

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          • #6
            Originally posted by RMD View Post
            Yeah, in my amp the 3.3 volts comes from a surface mount, 5-pin IC the size of a chip resistor. Should be real fun to replace using my 48 year-old eyes! I found a suitable replacement (at least I hope it is) at Mouser; it's a TI chip, TPS70933DBVR. 3.3VDC, 150mA, LDO in an itty-bitty package. In stock, and less than a buck a piece.
            Thank you.
            The original regulator by New Japan Radio was proving hard to find.
            Well done, RMD. You deserve a gift.
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Thanks for that, Doctor! I'll check it out.
              Rob

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              • #8
                As an update, since installing the new 3.3V regulator (TPS70933DBVR), the amp is now working. Not at first though. After replacing the voltage regulator, (major PITA, btw, because of the SMT miniature size) I powered up the amp and saw...
                eight black boxes in the LCD as was the original condition. Darn it! I checked the 3.3V rail and saw a floating-looking 2.2 or so volts. Turns out that the solder connection on pin2 (GND) of the 3.3V regulator chip I had just replaced wasn't actually touching the solder pad of the PCB. To the eye the solder looked reasonable., with a magnifier it still looked good, but when I measured pin2 with respect to ground - no continuity. The solder was really floating ever-so-slightly above the solder pad. This surface mount stuff is just too small to reliably see, at least for me. Reheated, re-flowed, and got that pin shorted to ground like I wanted. Now all is good and the amp runs at it should. Next, I will be putting the amp though all functions, then performing a load test to see what kind of power she's really capable of, and with what amount of distortion. I cannot quantify the distortion absolutely, but I can visualize the signal across the dummy load using an oscilloscope. I have found this to be a valuable step in order to have confidence that an amplifier is performing as it should. Making really loud sounds is not all that a player may be trying to achieve.
                Thanks for all the input. See you around these forums!
                Rob

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