M-Audio SBX10 subwoofer schematic

[MarkusBass]

I've got M-Audio SBX10 subwoofer with several problems (hum and no signal passing through). All harnesses are glued and it does not seem easy to diagnose without schematic. Has anyone got it?

Mark

[The Dude]

Have you tried contacting them directly?

M-Audio - Acclaimed audio interfaces, studio monitors, and keyboard controllers

[MarkusBass]

Not yet. It's because they require product registration (which does not belong to me) and a proof of purchase (which is not available after several years from purchase). In the past only in 1 case out of let's say 20 a company helped me to solve similar problem. Do you think it is worth contacting them? I know that they answer to technical questions but rather to very simple questions. I may try to contact them but don't expect any help.

Mark

[Enzo]

WHy would you not contact them? If they say no or ignore you, you are no worse off than you are now, and if they do help, then that is help you won;t get by not calling.

I always use language like this:

A customer presented a model XYZ for service, it has loud hum and does not pass signal. We would find a schematic or other documentation useful in repair of this unit. Can you provide us with the schematic.


Companies that will not provide schematics rarely will provide technical assistance beyond the most basic. They won't stay in communication for extended periods asking for voltage and resistance measurements in a circuit you have no map for.

[MarkusBass]

I tried to do it now but it seems that it's not that easy. I had to create an account, register the product and while trying the send them e-mail, they require "support code", which they say is provided during product registration but it was not.
It's written on their Web site that:
"Access to phone support for assistance with installation, setup, and product troubleshooting now requires a valid support code. M-Audio provides complimentary support codes for select products upon registration. Additional support codes can also be purchased via our web store."
they mention "phone support" but for e-mail support they also require support code (which they do not provide during product registration - at least for the SBX10 subwoofer). It seems that I need to buy it via their web store.
This is typical way such companies treat customers. That's why I asked whether anyone has the schematic.

Mark

[Enzo]

And that support is the kind consumers get, how to hook it up, how to use it, and the troubleshooting is going to be "look and make sure the cables are in the right jacks."

They have a phone number in Germany. Is that practical to call from Poland? Speaking to them on the phone will find out right now if they are willing to send schematics out. or have we tried that already?

[doctor]

And that support is the kind consumers get, how to hook it up, how to use it, and the troubleshooting is going to be "look and make sure the cables are in the right jacks."

They have a phone number in Germany. Is that practical to call from Poland? Speaking to them on the phone will find out right now if they are willing to send schematics out. or have we tried that already?

I hope this help.

[MarkusBass]

Great . Thank you so much.

Mark

[Jazz P Bass]

The Doctor is IN.

[MarkusBass]

The sub is fixed. With the schematic this was easy. The problems were caused by very poor quality capacitors they used. Doctor rules - thanks again.
The design and the enclosure is quite good but the capacitors they used are the worse I have seen in my life. See attachment.



Mark

[Lati3]

Same problem here. Had ~100Hz buzz and no audio going through. One of the two smaller capacitors was dead, getting replacement tomorrow. Hope there's no other problems. Thanks for the schematics, too!

[norisounds]

Sorry for resurrecting this old thread, but can someone provide some hints on which screws to remove to be able to take off the metal backplate of the SBX10?
I removed all the screws along the perimeter but the backplate (see jpg below) will not budge and I am hesitant to start removing random screws as I dont want to damage any of the mounted electronics.

I should note that I did not remove the grill/driver as I assume I should be able to take the backplate off without doing this?

I am not allowed to post attachments, so here is a link to the jpg.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6qbcl6yejg...13107.jpg?dl=0

Thanks for any pointers!

[g1]

There is often a sticky gasket that makes them hard to remove. You may have to try prying it with something. But you will want to use some kind of protector so your prying tool does not leave marks.
If it still will not budge, don't force it. There may be something else holding it. But I've often had to pry out with active speakers as they like to have a tight seal.

[norisounds]

Thanks for the tip. I did try to pull it off by putting my fingers in the port and pulling but maybe I need to give it a harder tug.

I do see there are 4 more screws in the middle of the backplate with the same sized screwhead as the ones I pulled out so I might try to pull those out first.

Just hope they are not used to mount electronics...

[norisounds]

So I was not able to 'pry' off the backplate. Instead, I decided to remove the front grill and driver and push out the backplate. This worked well and I was able to reglue the polyfill to the cabinet but I noticed that the two big caps on the power board are starting to swell so I will replace those.

It only took me 2 hours to remove the glue/epoxy on the two cable connectors attaching the power board I ended up using a small flat head screwdriver and pushing the clip up and out.

Any hints on how to remove the glue under the caps without damaging the board or the pcb leads? I read that a heat gun might be ok or isopropyl alcohol. Issue is I dont have a heatgun so a hairdryer might be ok I guess?

Suggestions?

edit: Only the perimeter screws need to be removed. Do not remove the screws in the middle of the plate as these are mounting some electronics