Amp is all wired except for the speaker jacks (have to get to lock washers), and the 1 ohm cathode resistors on the output tubes. Wiring doesn't look very nice, fiddled with the placement a bit. Mostly newby stuff:
- I mounted the fiberglass eyelet board too high above the chassis, only because the standoffs I got were too long and hard to cut. This makes it really hard to form the wiring nicely, that leads from the back of the board to the tube sockets.
- The wire I bought is high rolling mil spec stranded. The heat handling ability of the insulation is freakin incredible. I have not disfigured one bit of the wiring while soldering, compared to the fairly weak insulation used by Hammond on their transformers. A fraction of a second too long with the soldering iron, and Im getting pretty good with minimal time to solder a wire to a lug, and it starts to melt and contract. The wire I got is harder to form than solid core, and REALLY hard to strip. I bought a high rolling no nick stripper, that works on all wire except this tough mil spec stuff. The stripper just scrapes one side of the insulation off. Had to resort to the terrible strippers I have that take 2 or 3 tries to get a good strip with no nicks.
- general "How do I do this" type stuff, not sure if wire X should be routed under wire Y or over it.
- As mentioned (whined about) a few times, the fiberglass boards from the vendor are very, very different shape than the original fender fiber board. They are much deeper (front to back of the amp) and narrower (left to right). The components are too cramped, width wise, and its much harder to route the wiring neatly especially between the board and tube sockets. Will most definitely go with a different vendor next time. Especially, the eyelets on the side of the board nearest the tube sockets need to be closer to the edge of the board. and the board further away from the tube sockets.
- Figured out a few things regarding low signal wire routing: Fender did a tight twist, and routed the twisted set that goes to the vol, bass, treble, to the corner of the bend on the brass plate, then ran the wiring to the pots up and around the pots, keeping them close to the brass plate. By the time I figured out why it was like this, I had already cut the cable too short, so its in mid air now. Might need to rewire this side of the board, if I run into noise problems.
- Routing of the signal capacitors on the board isn't ideal. The caps are over some resistors and eyelets so its going to be some pain if I need to change out the resistors to do some tinkering e.g. for a presence control.
- The only thing left to order is speaker. My brother (who is a fine guitarist) asked around and said a few of his friends suggested the Black Shadow Celestion, that is made for Mesa's. 130.00 list, some place in LA sells it. maybe try that one.
- I mounted the fiberglass eyelet board too high above the chassis, only because the standoffs I got were too long and hard to cut. This makes it really hard to form the wiring nicely, that leads from the back of the board to the tube sockets.
- The wire I bought is high rolling mil spec stranded. The heat handling ability of the insulation is freakin incredible. I have not disfigured one bit of the wiring while soldering, compared to the fairly weak insulation used by Hammond on their transformers. A fraction of a second too long with the soldering iron, and Im getting pretty good with minimal time to solder a wire to a lug, and it starts to melt and contract. The wire I got is harder to form than solid core, and REALLY hard to strip. I bought a high rolling no nick stripper, that works on all wire except this tough mil spec stuff. The stripper just scrapes one side of the insulation off. Had to resort to the terrible strippers I have that take 2 or 3 tries to get a good strip with no nicks.
- general "How do I do this" type stuff, not sure if wire X should be routed under wire Y or over it.
- As mentioned (whined about) a few times, the fiberglass boards from the vendor are very, very different shape than the original fender fiber board. They are much deeper (front to back of the amp) and narrower (left to right). The components are too cramped, width wise, and its much harder to route the wiring neatly especially between the board and tube sockets. Will most definitely go with a different vendor next time. Especially, the eyelets on the side of the board nearest the tube sockets need to be closer to the edge of the board. and the board further away from the tube sockets.
- Figured out a few things regarding low signal wire routing: Fender did a tight twist, and routed the twisted set that goes to the vol, bass, treble, to the corner of the bend on the brass plate, then ran the wiring to the pots up and around the pots, keeping them close to the brass plate. By the time I figured out why it was like this, I had already cut the cable too short, so its in mid air now. Might need to rewire this side of the board, if I run into noise problems.
- Routing of the signal capacitors on the board isn't ideal. The caps are over some resistors and eyelets so its going to be some pain if I need to change out the resistors to do some tinkering e.g. for a presence control.
- The only thing left to order is speaker. My brother (who is a fine guitarist) asked around and said a few of his friends suggested the Black Shadow Celestion, that is made for Mesa's. 130.00 list, some place in LA sells it. maybe try that one.
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