When to drill whole for corners and other questions

[sarge]

Well, my head cab is just about ready for tolex. But I had a few questions.

1. I bought black metal corners to put on after the tolex. They came with half inch woodscrews. Should I drill the wholes in the Cabinet before applying the tolex? Should I drill at all or just go ahead and screw them into the tolex without having drilled.

2. Here are the feet I bought, http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/ite...983&id=9000001 They did not come with any screws. What would you recommend as far as screws to secure the feet to the cab.

3. Same question for the feet as for the corners. Would you drill wholes prior to tolex, would you drill wholes after tolex, or would you just not drill period.

4. Any good tolex tutorial sites? I have found a couple that are pretty decent, but if you have any you recommend, that would be great!

Thanks

PS. I apply the tolex tommorow and I am scared as hell. The head cab came out great. So much better then I thought it would have, but I can still easily screw it up with a bad tolex job.

[Tom Phillips]

I do not drill holes for corner or glide hardware before I apply the tolex.
For a primo job I suppose I would drill pilot holes after the tolex was applied but traditionally I do not pre-drill pilot holes. This seems to work fine in soft pine cabinets.

I have seen tolex application tutorials on the web but I have not seen any that I would recommend. They are just so much different from how I do it. I originally learned from a freind (in the 1960's) who was a good amp builder then continued to learn from my mistakes and build my experience. After about the third amp my cabs looked pretty good.

I'll post again if I find a reference to a good site.

Regars,
Tom

[Vintageheadboc]

Pre- drilling the holes is not necessary . Just hold your corners firmly in place( after tolex)
and turn in the screw. As far as the feet, A flat pan head wood screw not to long will work fine..

[tubeswell]

Or, if your steel corners are sturdy enough ( I have some sturdy Ernie Ball ones), position them from the front (or back, depending on which ones you are fitting) of the cab and tap them against the cab firmly with a rubber mallet to get the countersink well to indent into the timber, then go to town with your cordless screwdriver

[black_labb]

if the cab was made of a harder material i would use a pilot hole, but do it after the tolex. pine and possibly ply would probably not need a pilot hole. also depends on the size of the screw, and im not sure how big it is.