How to cut a round hole?

[galaxiex]

This should be worth 1000 words

That's what I do, but I securely mount the centering pin to the sacrificial board underneath.
The sacrificial board and the work piece are fastened together with either screws, double stick tape or clamps, depending on size etc.
That way when it reaches the end of the cut, the router stays located,
and less chance of accidentally taking a gouge out of the good work piece.
When ending the cut, hold the router in place and power it off and let it spin down, before lifting it away.

[SoulFetish]

definitely with a router and jig. if not, then this is how I did it with a jigsaw:

https://music-electronics-forum.com/...using-a-jigsaw

[Chuck H]

That's just a little smaller than my router. Less complicated than I thought. It looks like that router is secured in a hole the size of it's plane. For some reason it's only now occurring to me that there's no need for the router to pivot freely. it just needs to travel around the cut. My brain locks up sometimes.

EDIT: And I see that in SF's link I did include advice on the blade skewing. It's been so long since I cut a hole. It probably would have come back to me before I had the wood clamped and the tool going. At least I hope so. Hardly matters now because next time I'll try the router.

[35L6]

The workpiece and sacrificial board are clamped to the bench . A screw goes through the jig and everything else for the pivot . The jig is a piece of scrap ply . Used the router base as a template for the screw holes to mount the router . Before I retired I was a carpenter . And a painter too .

[Bill Moore]

I've used jig/sabre saws with wire or string for a guide with good results, but a few years ago I found a DE Walt Roto saw with an adjustable guide attachment to cut holes, works great!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28566577283...Bk9SR6q4-KTJYw

[Chuck H]

I've used jig/sabre saws with wire or string for a guide with good results, but a few years ago I found a DE Walt Roto saw with an adjustable guide attachment to cut holes, works great!

That's basically a small router though. Right? It's a neat tool though. I've used the router bits for the Dremel to work chassis hole shapes on aluminum with reasonable results. But those router drill bits don't cut very fast and wear quickly. I've used them on some wood too. That's just my experience. Can you link the jig attachment for that tool? I've thought about getting one because sometimes I feel like I need "more than the Dremel" for similar work.

[Bill Moore]

I guess so, but smaller and lighter than my old Craftsman! The bits are smaller also, so less wood is cut.
I don't know if you can buy the jig separately, it is pictured with the tool in the ad, and by itself in one of the pics. You remove the handle that is parallel to the tool, and install the handle/guide that is 90°. I used a single bit to cut 2-10" openings the last time I used it, but it was getting dull by the time I finished (1/2" baffle!) The bits are cheap, Ace sells them bulk here, as I guess the sheetrock is hard on them also, and I haven't tried "name brand" bits which may last longer.

[glebert]

I've tried a few different ways to cut round holes, including routers and jigs. What works best for me is cutting the hole slightly undersized with jigsaw. Then I take a scrap baffle with the correct size hole, screw it to the baffle I'm making, and use a ball bearing guide router bit to clean up the new hole to be the right size. It does require you to have a scrap baffle with the right size hole, but relative to the other junk I hold onto baffles in 10, 12, and 15 take up very little room. I find this method much faster and less likely to burn bits than using a router to go all the way through. I think there is less tearout, too.