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Weber 5e3 Build

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  • Weber 5e3 Build

    I am waiting for my Weber 5e3 kit to arrive and have read several post about the quality of the components. Fine time to read the posts after payment has gone through!!

    I don't want to replace everything just to get the perfect tone. However, I don't want to solder junk into the circuit that will cause trouble in a few months. So, what specific components should I consider replacing for more durability and low noise?

    Thanks

  • #2
    Personally, I think the Weber quality is OK. Recently they have been sending kits with the most commonly replaced parts upgraded - the jacks and switches. Even the stock kit will get you a good sounding amp. I have a Weber kit that I used almost all stock parts and I'm extremely pleased with it. Mine didnt yet have upgraded jacks and switches, so I did use Switchcraft and Carling. I would suggest getting better tubes. The Chinese 12AX7s seem alright to start, but I have some other ones I put in. The Chinese 6L6s it came with sounded surprisingly good, but Weber doesnt match tubes and they are way apart in current draw.
    "In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is."
    - Yogi Berra

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    • #3
      Even if you want to replace a few caps and resistors here and there, it is no biggie and it only costs a few dollars. I suggest that you wait until you've built it with the Weber parts first, then see what the sound is like.
      Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)

      "I have never had to invoke a formula to fight oscillation in a guitar amp."- Enzo

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      • #4
        Thanks! Good to know some of the components have been improved. Tubes are easy enough to replace. Just don't want to have to re-install a bunch of noisy jacks, switches, pots, etc due to poor quality -- I'll be luck to find the time to build it the first time!!

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        • #5
          I have start my first build with a Weber kit.

          The kit has a very reasonable price. Arrived very well packed, chassis is all chromed and looks pristine, it came with all perforations needed for board and transformers.

          The cabinet and chassis are beautiful, strong construction, well finished. Both are already perforated, no extra work is required. The Speaker 12A125 is very good, fits like a glove in this amps.

          I have ordered the kit without tubes, capacitors, resistor and pots and I placed a seperate order for these items. All other items seem to have a fair quality, all jacks and switches are switchcraft now.

          As replacement components, I used (orange drops, Tube amp doctor and sprague capacitors), (carbon comp resistors), (cts pots), (NOS RCA tubes) and I replaced the plastic pilot light assembly with a metal one made in Chicago.

          Oh... I have also replaced the power cord with a heavier gauge Husky I bought at Home depot.

          The amp came out very, very nice. See here:

          http://music-electronics-forum.com/t15463/

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          • #6
            Orange drop caps will substantially alter your tone. If you're shooting for a more "just like Leo did it" tone, Mallory 150s are the way to go. To my ears, Orange drops are very hi-fi/sterile. I like them in hi fi amps (like na old Dynaco) but not in guitar amps.

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