Odd normal vol channel..

[The Captain]

I think Ive seen my schoolboy error.. will rejig, repost a pic asap and remove my above pic (!). Captain

[The Captain]

Right then- rewired and 1st test done: I turned on amp and light bulb shines full, and with no pilot light on amp..?

[stokes]

Something still aint right.Assuming the top lugs in your picture are the grounds and the two pairs at the bottom are the "live" connections,one "live"wire from the plug to the closest outlet lug,one live wire from the plug to the outlet lug at the furthest left,then the two middle lugs connected together.We'll get there.

[The Captain]

Here it is the rewired: brown L wire to pin Rhs, blue/ red N wire to pin Lhs (extended wire at bttm), central pins joined and not connected to any wire, earth wire joins both top pins. I can't surely have this wrong still?

This is how it was wired for the last test (post #11, above).

Im baffled by this: "The yellow wire from the mains plug should connect to the outlet lug it is connected to ONLY".. the only yellow must be the yllw/ grn earth, and your diagram shows it connects both pins-? Both sockets must connect to earth- Im so confused again ..

[stokes]

In the first picture it looked like the yellow wire was the "live" wire,not the ground,the brown was not seen.This shot I can see the yellow is ground and should only be connected to the ground of each outlet.I am not familiar with the European 220v color codes,but it appears to be okay,if you are sure the yellow is the ground.When you did the last test are you sure you had a good fuse?Do you have a 100watt bulb in the mix?Could it be that with the 220v mains you need a different watts bulb?Maybe Steve can answer that I know with the 120v mains we use a 100watt,perhaps it should be different with your 220v supply.With this apparatus the fuse should not blow.Earlier you said the mains fuse was not blowing but some other 2a fuse was,you also said you had a 3amp fuse on your main,is that right?I know I asked but I never got clarification.Is that 2a fuse in your B+ rail?And why are you using a 3amp in the main.For a 5E3 here we use a 2amp,you should be using a 1amp with your 220v main.

[The Captain]

I had the 100w light switched to on but not lit (in Uk 100w is brightest we'd put in a std lamp) and noticed when turning on amp the 100w lit bright, without amp light. It didn't blow a fuse this time though.. should the 100w be lit before amp turned on? If so I must still have something not hooked up right.

As to mains plug fuse, yes I had a 3A there when amp died (it stayed put but the amps T2AL popped even with no tubes); a 3A mains plug fuse was suggested by the Uk supplier whom I got the amp fuseholder/ T2AL sloblow from -Im fairly sure- or it could have been just my daftness. *It makes sense I guess in hindsight to have had a 1A in the mains plug before the T2AL in amp, and perhaps then I may not be looking at a died 5e3 if the 1A would have popped before any nasties got to amp? Anyway it shouldn't be dead it was not a month old.. and I still need to find out why, and narrow search to exactly what if possible.

*is that a dead cert, or not neccessarily so? Thanks alot, Captain.

[stokes]

Where exactly is that T2AL you refer to?If you had a 3amp fuse where a 1amp should be,then yes, you may have fried something like the PT.Getting back to the limiter.The light switch should be on,but the 100watt bulb should come on only when the amp is switched on,but the pilot light on the amp should come on,indicating the amp is on as well.Check to see if you have voltages in the amp,maybe your pilot light blew?When plugged into the limiter,the volts in the amp will be lower than normal.I am beginning to think you had a short in your B+ and since you had a 3amp fuse you may have fried your PT.When the 1amp would have blown,you let 3x's that much current go thru your PT.Disconnect the secondaries to the rectifier and the heaters and see if it blows a 1amp mains fuse.Tell me where that T2AL fuse is.

[The Captain]

Thanks Mr. Stokes- I can verify I have 2 fuses..

1. mains plug fuse at 3A- will change to 1A (if applicable for Uk?)
2. amp fuse at T2AL as per std 5E3 layout, ie in series before AC switch.

So to recap I did test using correctly (95% certain now) wired limiter:
turning on amp lit bulb bright only with no pilot light on amp, neither pilot bulb or T2AL amp fuse popped..?

[stokes]

Capn,I'm still not clear on that T2AL fuse.Is this something related to the U.K. wiring?The standard 5E3 layout here has one fuse on the AC mains line opposite the switch,and is 2amp.Take a voltage check inside the amp when it is connected to the limiter,if the pilot light is not lit and the bulb and fuses are good,you should have power inside the amp.It is possible the PT is totaly shot and you have no power at all,in this case the bulb will light full brightness.Do you have an ETA on the new PT?

[The Captain]

Im con-fused as to your query re my T2AL: its the std fuse on the main AC line in the amp as you say above/ as my 'no.2' previous post; there's no way we can get muddled if just one fuse in a 5E3 can there? it sits between the 2 switches in a fuseholder; a small glass fuse with metal ends about 15mm long and a filament visible through glass.

Is your Q specifically why its a T2AL as opposed to a 2A??

As to new PT I expect any day.. but unless I can find out why this one blew there's no point fitting a similar PT as it'll just blow again. So sell it as new/ spkr/ OT other bits etc and recoup as much as I can? seems a shame after such a huge effort.. I grately appreciate the help of course, and WILL get at least one limiter test done successfully though. Cheers Capn

[The Captain]

Realising having 2 bulbs (a pilot lightbulb and a 100w lightbulb) may be adding confusion:

Test was so:

1. A 100wLightbulb (standard desklamp) and the amp are plugged in to 2 sockets on a limiter (100wLB switched to 'on' but does not light yet).
2. When amp is turned on 100wLB lights & stays at full brightness- but the amp's pilot light does not light.
3. When amp is turned off this turns off 100wLB.

If anyone has any idea what this test may signify/ mean, or what could be done next or any idea (bar throwing a very large distance) why a 5E3 keeps blowing fuses Id be grateful! It'd also save Mr. Stokes's sanity I think. Captain.

[RickyD]

1. Pilot light bulb burned out. Check filament continuity to confirm.

OR

2. Pilot light bulb is not in the circuit. Check voltage at socket and back track to the fault.

-Rick

[The Captain]

The pilot bulb filament has continuity, and is sitting in its holder. If the pilot bulb had burnt surely the 100wLB wouldn't light as there'd be a break in the circuit? ie circuit being into the amp through 100w light and out?

[stokes]

Thanks Mr. Stokes- I can verify I have 2 fuses..

1. mains plug fuse at 3A- will change to 1A (if applicable for Uk?)
2. amp fuse at T2AL as per std 5E3 layout, ie in series before AC switch.

So to recap I did test using correctly (95% certain now) wired limiter:
turning on amp lit bulb bright only with no pilot light on amp, neither pilot bulb or T2AL amp fuse popped..?

Here you are refrering to two fuses.Are they both in the amp?Or is one in the current limiter?The fuse in the amp should be 1amp,not the one in the current limiter,the current limiter doesnt need a fuse.

[stokes]

Did you check for voltage in the amp with the limiter hooked up?It sounds like you arent getting power to the amp at all.If the current limiter is wired properly you wont blow the new PT,that is the point of using the limiter,so you can diagnose the amp without blowing the fuse or anything else in the amp.