Which don't exist here, and its hardly worth shipping. But thanks for the snotty reply.
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bugera 333xl schemaics ????
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I did not intend it to be a comment that could cause offense, but being professional and charging for skills does entail a degree of ethics and not taking in units or working on problems that you know from the on-set, you are not equipped to handle at the level the customer expects of someone promoting his business as a repair facility. The solution is simple, don't take in units that you have not developed resources for. That is just common sense and a basis of professional business conduct. That leaves 900 other brands to focus on.
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I'd be willing to bet my "professional ethics" make you look like a mafia boss. So don't preach to me bud, mkay? If it's cheaper for me to do it than for someone to ship it off or throw it in the trash, then it makes sense for me to do it. However, it would make MORE SENSE if Bugera would just up with the schematics. Its not like a legion of people are just rubbing their hands waiting to make copies of crappy amps that sell for a few hundred bucks new and are assembled in China, or do you think there are? I don't care to get involved in warranty work for all the reasons listed on the threads here regarding that, mostly because the companies don't pay squat and you have to wait for reimbursement, and I dont care to work on pallets of $79 solid state practice amps all day. Bogner doesn't hand out schematics either, and I can't imagine wanting to copy one of those, but in the case of an amp that costs that much, its worth it for someone to ship it off to get it fixed. Not so much with an amp that is worth maybe twice the round trip shipping, if that.
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Lets say i bought a Bug 1960... and it sounded awesome for 10 minutes before fading into nothingness, after getting the replacement from the dealer I'd really want to keep that wonderful tone runnin. What components would I replace besides the output transformer? Because thats exactly what happened and exactly what id like to do.
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So I bought a Bugera 1960 from a supposed "dealer". I pulled it out of the box and threw it on top of my Marshall 1960 4x12 cab, plugged it in, warmed it up and dialed in a GREAT tone. After 10 minutes of heaven I crash down to earth when that sweet sound slowly faded into nothing. Lights on tubes glowing, just no sound. so now the replacement is on its way to me from the "dealer" and I want to keep the new 1960 for as long as possible. I saw, in this thread a few of you talking about replacing components and turning it into a different amp... in so many words.
My question is this, Besides the output transformer and the cheapo clip in the power section what else should be replace without altering the tone TOO MUCH, but increasing its reliability? "...dont worry, my brother is a TV repairman, and he has an ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."
But seriously, what can be done? consider this a project.
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The #1 problem I see on Bugeras is the voltage regulators over heat and go tits up. They actually had a notice posted about that on the V22, but all of them have the same issue. Because of where they put those on some of those amps, wedging a t220 heat sink in there is a no-go. I've had some luck with replacing the regulators then cutting a heat sink so it would fit in the tiny space available.
If the regulator(s) isn't bad to start with, its a good idea to add whatever level of heat sinking you canto keep them from going bad.
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