Mackie SWA1501

[J M Fahey]

Sir, do i wrong if i boost freq under 100hz about 6db? What is the maximum db input for swa1501?

I would not.
I'd rather feed them normal, flat signal and be happy that they are working.
Subwoofers are most abused pieces of equipment.
Our friend JRFrondelli here repairs them by the dozens, thanks to "NY DeeJays"
Personally, I find them fascinating as a concept but in actual use would rather replace each one of them with a 4 times larger (and heavier) 2x18" passive box, driven by a reliable power amplifier and worry about the Show, instead of worrying about gear.
Physics laws can be bent only so much, and no more.
Good luck.

[av.sorong]

how can i do?

I would not.
I'd rather feed them normal, flat signal and be happy that they are working.
Subwoofers are most abused pieces of equipment.
Our friend JRFrondelli here repairs them by the dozens, thanks to "NY DeeJays"
Personally, I find them fascinating as a concept but in actual use would rather replace each one of them with a 4 times larger (and heavier) 2x18" passive box, driven by a reliable power amplifier and worry about the Show, instead of worrying about gear.
Physics laws can be bent only so much, and no more.
Good luck.

Dear sir,

So, if i flatten the freq and run normally. I use two srm450 for full range handling, and one swa1501 in a karaoke room about 6 x 12 metre, the sub should sound a deep bass and long ground shaking, i mean under 120hz boost up. If i flatten the freq, it will be covered by 2 srm450. I use a behringer dcx2496 digital crossover and i also have (not used now) a navigator nav240 digital crossover. I set the sub crossover at 119hz to low. So if i don't boost from equalizer at 80hz to low, it will sound a hard bass, chest knocking i meant... So will not match to sing a karaoke song, because human low freq will be covered by music hard low freq.

Sir, i am sorry if my explaination makes you confuse.

So, how can i get a deep bass under 80hz boosted to cover 2 srm450? Remember how loud srm450 can be...

Thank you so much for your help sir.

[J M Fahey]

Dear Sorong.
When I say

normal, flat signal

I mean "normal, flat signal ... within its normal range (not full range)" but letting it put out what it reallistically can, no extra EQ punishing it exactly where efficiency falls drastically (bad combination).
Car racing fans often say "nothing substitutes cubic inches" (in a car engine); we could say "nothing substitutes square inches".
A 15" woofer can only move so much air.
I'm not into DJ and such, but into Guitar and Bass and a little on live PA, so can't comment on your speaker choice, but clearly one subwoofer , by definition, can't compete with two loud biamplified full range speakers.
And it needn't to either, because they work on different bands.
You *should* hear a certain music level, and when tuning the subwoofer on, it should become deeper, but not much louder, if any.
As a side note, I suspect (may be wrong) your Tesla woofers are car type, and they are not noted by their efficiency.
Feel happy that they work and have usable sound, don't push them into something they may not handle.
As another side note, I suspect everybody is getting deaf in that room. Their decision of course.
Good luck.
PS: Moris, an Argentine Rock pioneer, when asked "What's the best Speaker brand, in your opinion?" he answered "Muchos", which means: "many/a lot".

[av.sorong]

that's right sir

Dear Sorong.
When I say I mean "normal, flat signal ... within its normal range (not full range)" but letting it put out what it reallistically can, no extra EQ punishing it exactly where efficiency falls drastically (bad combination).
Car racing fans often say "nothing substitutes cubic inches" (in a car engine); we could say "nothing substitutes square inches".
A 15" woofer can only move so much air.
I'm not into DJ and such, but into Guitar and Bass and a little on live PA, so can't comment on your speaker choice, but clearly one subwoofer , by definition, can't compete with two loud biamplified full range speakers.
And it needn't to either, because they work on different bands.
You *should* hear a certain music level, and when tuning the subwoofer on, it should become deeper, but not much louder, if any.
As a side note, I suspect (may be wrong) your Tesla woofers are car type, and they are not noted by their efficiency.
Feel happy that they work and have usable sound, don't push them into something they may not handle.
As another side note, I suspect everybody is getting deaf in that room. Their decision of course.
Good luck.
PS: Moris, an Argentine Rock pioneer, when asked "What's the best Speaker brand, in your opinion?" he answered "Muchos", which means: "many/a lot".

Dear sir,

You absolutely right sir, me too thinking about sound, i rather choose clear, balance sound. Not more this or this...

I ever ask to my boss, to use 2 swa in a room to assistance the 2 srm, but he said... Too expensive... Hehehe... But he want it should be good for sing and house music, r n b, etc...

I excatly know that it's impossible to do with right now configuration, but once more time boss is boss...

I so sad for my swa, i know it's like a big girl... I mean, it has powerfull but very sensitive... A little wrong eq set or else may harm the woofer or modul...

Now, i am hoping the local technician can repair the modul, and i promise myself to more and more carefully in using my swa... Not again boost it up

Thank you so much sir for your help, anyway my name is andri angir, chief engineer in AS Karaoke at sorong city indonesia, we have 15 rooms, and using all srm450, and 2 swa, mixer tapco and eq alto 31ch.

[av.sorong]

failure components...

Dear sir,

I decided to check my modul at my own, and found out that this stuff failure :

1. Q 18 : MJE15033G
2. R 64 : 56 ohm
3. R 63 : 2R2 0,5W
4. Q 7 : TIP 122G
5. Q 14 : 2SA1943
6. Q 19 : J107
7. F1 : 250V/ 8A

While this stuff checked good,

Q17, q5, q16, q13, q8, q9, q1, q6, q2, q3.

Others are looking fine.

Sir, may i ask questions?

1. Why can q 14 error? leg B C E are connecting continuity...
2. When i check the schematic, on page 1, the r 64 are on the opposite with q 14? How it can affect the resistor?
3. Sir, if i replace all the components that failure above, will the modul works?
4. Sir, does it any replacement/ similary of the q components that failure? I meant, if the number doesn't stock at shop, may i change with another type?

Thanks you sir for your help

[av.sorong]

dear sir

dear sir,

I have replaced all components except q19 j107, i dont have a new one.

when power up, its looking good, all is fine, no more burnt up.

But i confuse, as i know, when powered up the swa, it will sound thump at first time, and its normal, but now, no thump sound...

When i put a signal, it sound so small and really really no good... Like a kreeesseeekkk kreeeessseekkkk....

Even i higher the gain/ mixer volume nothing happen.

But i see the thermal sensor led keep flashing as the music kicking... while the heat sink as cool as ice...

Sir, do i miss some components? Or The problem is q19? When i read the entire thread, i catch that q19 is a mute function, while now it has a sound but not a normal volume.

Sir, please i need your help.

Thank you before.

[av.sorong]

its done sir...

dear sir,

I have replace q19 and some diode and now it works fine, now i am using my 4 unit tesla subwoofer.

First i was wrong trust my friends shop, he told me that it was 8 ohm, but when i really check it, it 2 ohm/ coil, so i have to use 4 tesla sub to get 16 ohm.

The sound a little slow... Hehehe but deeper bass, and the modul didnt burnt again.

Thanks a lot sir for your assistance.

[WholeToneMusic]

The output impedance of the SWA 1501 is 12 ohms for the woofer. You will have an impedance mis-match with the present woofer you are trying to use. F1 is 8 amp 250 V fuse. Does the original woofer cause an issue? If so you may want to check for DC leakage on the output.

Brian

[av.sorong]

woofer

dear sir,

my modul still using f1 as 250v/8a, the original woofer not stand enough for long use, and i now try using 2 tesla double coil @4 ohm to gain 16 ohm...

Until now it works fine, with a little bit slower volume...

Andri

[WholeToneMusic]

You may have DC leakage on output.

[J M Fahey]

Dear wholetone
Why do you insist sorong's subwoofer has "DC in the output"?
Do you know something we don't?
Dear Sorong=

i now try using 2 tesla double coil @4 ohm to gain 16 ohm

don't know how could you achieve such a feat, considering you earlier stated=

when i really check it, it 2 ohm/ coil, so i have to use 4 tesla sub to get 16 ohm.

[av.sorong]

i have change

dear sir,

First sorry... Aaaarrrrggghhhhh....
I have write so much words... And when submit, the connection lost....

Sir, i have double check that there is no any voltage leakage at output...

And sir, sorry i dont told that my tesla 2 ohm it was borrowed from my friends shop, until i ok then i purchase, but because of mismatch ohm, so i return and change with double coil 4 ohm... And until now, i still not yet purchase it... Hehehe i will test it for a week first...

[J M Fahey]

Still not clear.
1) How many woofers are you using now?
2) What is the impedance of *each* of the two coils each of them has?
3) How are the coils of each woofer connected?
What is, then, the impedance of each woofer?
4) Do they come boxed?
What does the box say?
What does the label on the speaker say?
Do they have any brochure, user manual, whatever?
5) Post a couple pictures of the speakers.

[av.sorong]

this is it

dear sir,

i have 2 unit sub tesla 15inch.
Each of them has double coil.
Each coil has 4 ohm imp.
Each sub configured + to - so each sub become 8 ohm comfigured.
Them 2 unit sub connected using + to - so become tottal 16 ohm.
it doesnt has box, brochure, manual, etc... Only speakers.
I have 2 box SWA 1501.
1 box SWA planted the modul and sub
1 box SWA other planted only the sub.
I have planted it on the box, it heavy, if i want to take a picture, i have to release it... And it need at least 3 persons...

[J M Fahey]

OK, thanks, now I understand it a little better.
When you say

Each sub configured + to - so each sub become 8 ohm comfigured.

I *guess* each woofer has 2 coils, each of them has a + and a - terminal , making that 4 terminals in total, we might call them +1 , -1 , +2 , -2 , you wire those coils in series, meaning -1 to +2; that leaves +1 free to become the woofer's "+" and -2 to become the woofer's "-" , is that so?
Don't open the cabinets just for that, but if you ever have one of those speakers "on a table", please take a couple pictures (or picture a "brother" at your friend's shop).
Thanks.