SWR Bass 350 Capacitor rating?

[brandonnys]

I read a thread here where someone had an SWR Bass 350 with an output buzz (In other words, the pre-amp was fine). Enzo pointed to a capacitor being the cause of the output buzz, and the reporter reheated up the solder joint and the issue was fixed.

My amp has the same issue. So I ripped out the PCB and I found the two caps. I touch one and it feels solid, so I heat up the solder and call it good. I touch the second one, and the cap's positive lead is TOTALLY BROKEN. So, I heat up the solder pads and remove it.

I call my local guitar repair shop to see if they have the cap, and they ask for the specs. I give them what I can find on the cap, and they don't have the part.

My question is if anyone knows of a replacement cap and where I can get it? Or, do you know how to read the cap code to determine the specs for a replacement? Here's what's on the cap (PHOTO BELOW):

Brand: Nippon Chemi-Con
Line 1: SMH 85(Degree sign)C
Line 2: 80V 6800UF(M)
Line 3: UCC 63A 06L 63



Thanks for any help you can provide.

[brandonnys]

Does anyone think this one is a suitable replacement?

[Enzo]

I can barely see it.

You want to replace a 6800uf 80v cap, if you find another that says 6800uf and 80v on it, then it ought to work just fine.

The cap you propose says 63v on it, not 80v. That means the old cap was good up to 80 volts, while your new one is only good up to 63 volts.

Here is a reasonable choice stock number from Mouser:

598-SLPX682M080H7P3


$6.51 each and they have plenty in stock.


By the way, caps come in various shapes. Yours is called a "snap-in" type.

[brandonnys]

Thanks Enzo

Thanks for the model, Enzo. I'll order one today.

While on the subject though, anything else I should check down the line? I'm pretty positive it's this busted cap. Also, should I just go ahead and replace both of them now while I got it apart?

[brandonnys]

I looked at the specs on that cap and it's one of the smaller ones with a rated ripple current at 5.24. I found another one (one that is the identical size as mine) but the ripple current rating is 5.27. from Mouser it's part SLPX682M080E9P3 (The 2" tall one).

Is this going to make a difference?

[brandonnys]

Enzo, I was impatient...

I went ahead and bought these ones instead because they are physically the same size, and the specs appear to be the same. I hope you don't come back and tell me that I've done wrong, mostly because I had to order them from Digikey with overnight delivery (not cheap).

Digi-Key - 338-1653-ND (Manufacturer - SLPX682M080E9P3)

[Enzo]

Any of them would work just fine. This circuit is not some NASA space satellite, nothing precision here that a franction of an ohm or smidgen of ripple current would matter to.

I picked one, any of them would work. I selected a shorter one, since I did not know how much rom you have vertically. We'd all feel silly if we soldered in a new cap and found it sticking uop a quarter inch higher than the cover of the amp. If you have the room, then it doesnlt matter.

I don;t care where you buy them, I usually check Mouser first for their breadth of line. When I shop for parts I usually open three windiws - Mouser, Allied, Digikey - and enter the same items in each to see who has what in stock and at what prices.

Overnighting a cap? Good lord...

[brandonnys]

Yeah... got a gig and need an operational amp, so express parts. I tried mouser, but they were out of stock. Thanks for the help.