Soldering headache.

[J M Fahey]

Juan-

Can you run me through the diode idea again? I was thinking surely there might be a way of taming the tips heat a bit. Whether thats a resisitor somewhere, or if/ as you say a diode the idea. Where would this be placed?

And as I can only think of a diode as channeling current in one direction(I think thats the basic premise) how would it limit the voltage, or current, to therefore reduce the heat?

thanks, S Chief

What flyingdutchman said.
Voltage and current are the same, but duty cycle is 50%, so average power is halved.

[Sea Chief]

Chief, you've got to be the only guy who would actually choose lead-free solder .
No offence intended, but have you spent much time using leaded? The difference to me is insurmountable.
I'm actually re-thinking your Crate issue. Sometimes old/oxidized component leads will not let lead free stick.
There are inexpensive solder fume extractors available, some even with solder irons.
Fume Extractor with Iron | Rapid Online
Rapid Soldering Fume Filter | Rapid Online
Soldering Fume Extraction | Rapid Online
Smoke Absorber Fume Extractor for ESD Soldering Solder Flux + 5 Carbon Filter on eBay!

Sorry I mssed a few replies here by all accounts (usually I see each in my hotmail/ not all then).

G-one but Ive used cheapy lead-free for 10 years & w'out -once- a problem. Not even one dud solder joint. For eg my very 1st project was a hifi PS (for a naim pre-amp also modded). With cheapo iron ~like this + exactly same solder. Now I may not get ultra-shiny joints but each look good; so much so the PS is on 24 hrs a day, 365 days a year (bar a week or so) for 10 years.. it runs as perfectly today as the day I made it. And fwiw it (& my big modded nac32.5) still sounds absolutely stunning! I have only fleeting thoughts on recapping it so good it sounds. I have never -once- ever thought of upgrading either it or my beloved '85 Naim 32.5 (never till I croak! now -that- is an audio Co bar none!).

So you see I have nothing but plaudits for the ''dreadful' ebay £1.20 a tube lead-free solder (you guys wouldn't consider as its so cheap). It flows perfectly well each & every time. And from my experience of nr total success I cannot see any point in anyone needing anything better for home use either tbh. Even the HV amps on point-to-point (diy) boards the solder joint are not mirror "pro" shiny, but they're fine/ rock solid after years too. Ive tried 'expensive' silver-solder, & leaded, & tho it made the joints v slightly shinier, or flowed v slightly quicker: the results were -exactly- the same: simply a good joint.


So cheap Irons as s'one said (tho this one evidently IS ott hot/ the 220v-240v rating seems to be a possible reason/ tho I need to go over the points again/ a bit complicated), & lead-free solder I believe too can be fine. The prob here is not with the solder. I cannot afford or even need an expensive £100 TC Iron, but I can afford leaded solder sure its not much more but Ive found, from extensive use/ tests, that there is just no reason to whatsoever.. regardless of the obvious huge benefit of no leaded fumes. SC

[Tom Phillips]

Further reading for those interested.

Jazz,
I just got around to reading the whole Extending Soldering Iron Tip Life Technical Note that you posted. Lots of good information including the reasons behind the recommended tip care instructions.
Thanks for posting.
Tom