Egnater Rebel 20

[earache]

I have been looking at a friends Egnater Rebel 20 head that went completely silent.
I opened it up and found that there are 3 components missing off of the circuit board. They either overheated and melted themselves off the board or were poorly soldered on at the factory.
I can identify one part because it is a resistor and I found it floating around inside the head. I can't identify the other two.

I can find a schematic on line but it only lists the part names and not the values. Weird that they would do that but it's how they work.

I have sent three different messages via the comments section of the Egnater website, asking for a complete schematic and have received nothing.

I have called the factory twice and spoke to somebody who said they received the messages but were having trouble with their mail and were unsuccessful sending me the schematic. I asked if they could just look up the values of the missing parts and tell me on the phone but they said they were unwilling to do that.

I can only guess that they are having trouble sending and receiving stuff from my AOL account, because some spam blocker programs have trouble with AOL.

Does anyone have a Rebel20 and can take a look inside it for me to identify the parts values that are missing?
Here are the details - I could use a complete schematic, including the parts values, for an Egnater Rebel, s/n RBL20-07081279. At the minimum I need the schematic for the pre amp board p/n PRE-PA_V13. At the bare minimum I need the values for these three components
R118 R129 C132

I have also posted in the "schematics request" section of this forum.

Thanks in advance

[g1]

Schematic is attached.
Once you have the values, you will still need to figure out why they burnt.
R118 is the first dropper resistor in the power supply. Often resistors in this position burn out due to failed power tubes.
R129 & C132 are down at the bottom of the phase splitter. They seem to connect through CN104 to the output jack board, so that may have something to do with them burning up.

[earache]

Thanks G-one

Thanks for the help....I had found that schematic already but without
the values it is still a guessing game..

I believe that there wasn't enough solder used to hold these parts on.

[lowell]

I recently dealt with trying to get some support from Egnater and it was really frustrating. Not only was it tough to get ahold of anyone, but once I finally did I was made to feel as if I was inconveniencing them. Then when I told them that they were being rude and unhelpful, instead of apologizing and "pleasing the customer" they continued to argue and say I'm a pain in the ass in so many words.. Not good customer service...at all.

[Pryde]

A little late maybe but I was able to get a rebel 20 schematic WITH values from Egnater. Here it is:

[g1]

So I'll assume the "NP" for R129 & C132 means "no part", or un-stuffed, which explains why you didn't find any bits of them left inside?

[earache]

So I'll assume the "NP" for R129 & C132 means "no part", or un-stuffed, which explains why you didn't find any bits of them left inside?

First of all - Pryde, you ain't late by any means and I am VERY grateful, thank you!

And yes G-one - "NP" must mean "No Part" which is crazy and misleading considering that there WAS a part that fell off of the board and I found it inside the head...so I guess I have all the info I need.

Now I have to carefully plug back in all of the spade lugs that I had to unplug to get the board out so I could solder the resistor back in...by the way, ALL of the spade lugs are LOOSE. I don't know how the amp worked before, with the lugs loose to the point of falling off. I think that all the cable ties that bind all of the wires together must have held them in place.

Thanks again all!

[Pryde]

Great I am glad you can make use of the schematic. I worked on a Rebel 20 a while back and found it to be a bit of a nightmare but did get it sorted thanks to the fine folks here.

As far as Egnater CS I have had fairly good luck with direct email to Nate Dana for getting info/schematics:

Nate@Egnateramps.com

Good luck with the repair!

[earache]

Pryde - when you worked on your Rebel 20, did you also find the
spade lugs to be loose? I have never seen an amp that relied
so much on spade lugs for its connections and implemented them so poorly.

I suppose I will have to squeeze each connector with pliers until I can
make them fit snugly, then wire tie them in place. I will also have to be careful that they all go back into the right spots! Between the schematic and the pictures I took I should be ok.

[g1]

And yes G-one - "NP" must mean "No Part" which is crazy and misleading considering that there WAS a part that fell off of the board and I found it inside the head...so I guess I have all the info I need.

You found 1 of 3 parts you listed. It must be R118 as the amp would not work without it. The schematic does NOT show that one as NP, it is shown as 1K5watt. Did you check if it is ok?
It is the other 2 parts that were not used. JM Fahey explained in the other post:

Agree and add.
That would explain them not being there.
They would never "dissipate > overheat > melt solder > drop"anyway, so they were either pulled "by hand" or simply never were there.

That said, it's a fixed Presence circuit, which probably made the amp too shrill, so they stopped using it.

*If* you want to experiment, 1K and .1uF would be close to a regular "middy" Presence sound, and using 0.047uF more of a bright one.

But the amp will happily work forever without them.

[Pryde]

Pryde - when you worked on your Rebel 20, did you also find the
spade lugs to be loose? I have never seen an amp that relied
so much on spade lugs for its connections and implemented them so poorly.

I suppose I will have to squeeze each connector with pliers until I can
make them fit snugly, then wire tie them in place. I will also have to be careful that they all go back into the right spots! Between the schematic and the pictures I took I should be ok.

No I don't recall any of the spades being that loose in the one I had worked on? think you got the right idea, tighten them up before reconnecting.

[earache]

G-one - Yes the part that I found, which was R118, was a 1K resister but it looks more like a 2W part. It tested within 10%, but it looked a little scorched so I replaced it with another new 1K 2W metal oxide resistor.

I should have posted that info here...I also have a post on the schematic request portion of this forum and I posted the info over there.

[g1]

Yes the part that I found, which was R118, was a 1K resister but it looks more like a 2W part. It tested within 10%, but it looked a little scorched so I replaced it with another new 1K 2W metal oxide resistor.

Modern 5watt resistors can be small, and may look like a 2watt part. The schematic calls for 5watt, I wouldn't use any less there as it will possibly fail or have a shortened life-span.

[earache]

To wrap this up - I put it all back together and it works! Tightened up the spade lugs with some pliers and all is together, bias set and working.
Thanks for the help everybody, you guys are always generous with time, info and effort.