yes, it is a pain in the ass when the nuts have pulled the chassis edge up, because they snag while disassembling. SO I use my rubber mallet to tamp them back down. I know tightening the bolts will just deform it again, bit at least it goes in easier. the side screw flaps on Fender wedge chassis amps - like FM212R - bug me that way.
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Ampeg BA115HP speaker popping
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Originally posted by drewl View PostAh, the annoying things we deal with and the little tricks to make things easier!
On those cheapie ss Fenders get a flat edge and bend the chassis back for easier removal and to prevent the tolex and foil from tearing.
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Originally posted by drewl View PostDammit I want to beat whoever designed the chassis/cabinet over the head with one of these!
A tight fit, now the cage nuts popped off and its a pain to pop the one behind the power trans back in.
If I have to remove the PT to pop it in I'm gonna kill something
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Originally posted by goldtop5 View Postspent half the day troubleshooting and the other half trying to put the damn thing back together! The chassis was bent and I had to straighten it back out. The retainers for the chassis nuts were bent so far out of shape that they're useless! I had to use scotch tape to hold the nuts in place so I could bolt the chassis back in. I even had to dig for new mounting screws because the old ones were bent into an "s" shape and stripped out!This isn't the future I signed up for.
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I know it's been a while, but I just want to let you guys know that the problem was solved. There was an IC chip on the preamp board that had high DCmV detected on the signal path (I think pin 1 and 2). Not really sure since it's been a while and my co-worker was the one who took over. He spotted it right away when there was crackling on the volume control. The IC was replaced and the problem went away.
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