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Ampeg BA115HP speaker popping

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  • #16
    yes, it is a pain in the ass when the nuts have pulled the chassis edge up, because they snag while disassembling. SO I use my rubber mallet to tamp them back down. I know tightening the bolts will just deform it again, bit at least it goes in easier. the side screw flaps on Fender wedge chassis amps - like FM212R - bug me that way.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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    • #17
      Ah, the annoying things we deal with and the little tricks to make things easier!

      On those cheapie ss Fenders get a flat edge and bend the chassis back for easier removal and to prevent the tolex and foil from tearing.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by drewl View Post
        Ah, the annoying things we deal with and the little tricks to make things easier!

        On those cheapie ss Fenders get a flat edge and bend the chassis back for easier removal and to prevent the tolex and foil from tearing.
        I like to take one of those squeeze bar clamps and set it up to spread. Then I spread the open the back side panels, which makes it a lot easier to slide in and out the chassis. You still might have a problem with the foil if it has come away from the sides of the cabinet.

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        • #19
          Once you solve the problem, replace the bias trim pot with something of better quality. I usually do this as matter of course, and it solves the bias drift issue in these amps.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by drewl View Post
            Dammit I want to beat whoever designed the chassis/cabinet over the head with one of these!

            A tight fit, now the cage nuts popped off and its a pain to pop the one behind the power trans back in.

            If I have to remove the PT to pop it in I'm gonna kill something
            I agree! How do you think I felt? I spent half the day troubleshooting and the other half trying to put the damn thing back together! The chassis was bent and I had to straighten it back out. The retainers for the chassis nuts were bent so far out of shape that they're useless! I had to use scotch tape to hold the nuts in place so I could bolt the chassis back in. I even had to dig for new mounting screws because the old ones were bent into an "s" shape and stripped out! I wanted to throw this thing across the room! But evidently, looks like someone else already has!

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            • #21
              Originally posted by goldtop5 View Post
              spent half the day troubleshooting and the other half trying to put the damn thing back together! The chassis was bent and I had to straighten it back out. The retainers for the chassis nuts were bent so far out of shape that they're useless! I had to use scotch tape to hold the nuts in place so I could bolt the chassis back in. I even had to dig for new mounting screws because the old ones were bent into an "s" shape and stripped out!
              Crates of the same time period, same thing, well it's the same company after all. I found some Vintage Clubs were hell to work on because Tommy Tenthumbs took all the screws & bolts out & didn't pay attention to which was which on reassembly, garping up the captive nuts besides the rest of the mess. PHOOEY! Did use the tape trick, using masking tape instead of cellophane.
              This isn't the future I signed up for.

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              • #22
                I know it's been a while, but I just want to let you guys know that the problem was solved. There was an IC chip on the preamp board that had high DCmV detected on the signal path (I think pin 1 and 2). Not really sure since it's been a while and my co-worker was the one who took over. He spotted it right away when there was crackling on the volume control. The IC was replaced and the problem went away.

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