A Not so charming Beringer Eurolive B212D Dead, and needed for Gig 2Nite

[nylicens]

Arrgh! And I wanted to leave work a bit early. Mr Murphy lives with me...

It's a Beringer Eurolive B212D and it's dead. I checked fuse and it's ok, so is power O/O switch. Did a quick search on the internet for a schematic and found one of lousy resolution but better than nothing. Pulled guts quickly and inspected and C22 differs from all other caps in that it is distinctly domed. Has anyone else had problems with this amp? Anyone have a better copy of the schematic?

[nylicens]

[QUOTE=nylicens;404439Anyone have a better copy of the schematic?[/QUOTE]

Thank you LarryP!!

[nylicens]

...and needed for Gig 2Nite.

Thanks to a colleague we got them setup with a Passport to get them through the evening.

R&R'd the cap and that wasn't problem. Now to tear it apart again and troubleshoot instead of replacing seemingly bad visual parts that are probably fine......

[Enzo]

Just curious, was the actual cap domed? Or just the plastic disc covering the end?

[nylicens]

Just curious, was the actual cap domed? Or just the plastic disc covering the end?

It was the metal and it stood out from the surrounding caps as being obviously domed, but it seems to be working fine. I'll post pix if I get a chance.

[nylicens]

Here are pix

Just curious, was the actual cap domed? Or just the plastic disc covering the end?

Here's the view in circuit

And here it is after pulling it out

[km6xz]

Pressure built up pretty high to expand the top so check if the voltage across the cap is within normal range. It is right next to power transistors so if they are getting too hot, note why. Replacing the cap was the correct thing to do. I don't have the schematic in front of me but depending where that cap is, it might indicated a problem with the +12v regulator, of -80volt rail.

[nylicens]

Pressure built up pretty high to expand the top so check if the voltage across the cap is within normal range. It is right next to power transistors so if they are getting too hot, note why. Replacing the cap was the correct thing to do. I don't have the schematic in front of me but depending where that cap is, it might indicated a problem with the +12v regulator, of -80volt rail.

That cap is on the output of a 7812 regulator, and I pulled the regulator and verified its operation out of circuit. I would love to check the voltage, but access to the board is near impossible without tearing it down. I might try soldering 30ga kynar to various spots and bring that out after reassembling, but that seems rather a kludgey way of troubleshooting. Although as I look at it I may just be able to run it disassembled with a lot of care and no signal input. But that method looks awfully iffy. Particularly since Mr Murphy seems always to hover over my shoulder.

[The Dude]

One of my peeves: Let's put an electrolytic cap right next to a heat source.

Probably too late, but if I were replacing those caps, I would leave the lead a bit longer and tip them away from the heat.

[nylicens]

Upshot

One of my peeves: Let's put an electrolytic cap right next to a heat source.

Probably too late, but if I were replacing those caps, I would leave the lead a bit longer and tip them away from the heat.

I am probably way late in finally getting back to this but shortly after a second Beringer Eurolive came in also dead. With two of them in shop I finally gave up and ordered replacement boards on ebay. Installed the replacements and all back to working. Would loved to have traced to component level but sometimes you gotta know when to fold'em. But thanks to all for your help!