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swr workingmans combo 15
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Originally posted by zairec14 View Postbig yellow one. doesnt matter. its reads 355k
The thing that you removed from the IEC jack to the fuse holder was a pigtail fuse. It is covered in clear plastic tubing as an insulator.
The photo shows 4 mounting bolts. Two are for the power transformer and I think that the other two are for a terminal strip similar to the one that has the crossover cap and resistor. Was there one supplied with the parts of the amp? That may be where the inrush thermistor was mounted.
Edit, I just looked at the earlier photo and see that the transformer uses all 4 bolts. I still seem to recall a terminal strip for the primary wiring, so was there one supplied with the other parts?
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Sadly the picture is unreadable, exactly on the doubtful label.
From the top and bottom bits I can barely see, first 2 digits *seem* to be 3 - 3 because they look somewhat rounded while the tird one might be 5 because is seems flat topped, , but IŽm just squinting my eyes and guessing.
In any case "355K" means nothing as far as capacitance values go.
Now "335" might mean 3.3uF which is a standard value, but you claim otherwise, so ...
"K" in this case would not be part of the value at all but might indicate tolerance , in this case 10% which sounds reasonable.
To read all about it:
All About Capacitor Markings
One small detail:its reads 355k
" it reads such and such value on a meter scale" ; what is printed on the body is more properly called "labelled or printed" as in:
"this rsistor is labelled 10 ohms but reads 1000 ohms" which means itŽs toast.
Just so we all understand te same
EDIT:
Thanks jpb for your power supply snippet.
I guess the mystery yellow cap is replacing the .1uF x 250V shown across the secondary, it certainly can not be used across the primary because it lacks a VAC rating.
EDIT: dear zairec14, sorry for this but you should improve your pictutes so they can help more , the capacitor one is unreadable, a flash or overhead light reflection obscures the important part of the label, and the transformer picture was way too small, I had to quadruple its size and "sharpen" it twice to make out the label:
which now seems to read:
46-0-46 (VAC) on top and
0-100-120 (VAC) on the bottom.
Now the unlabelled picture on post #11 at least is the proper size.
I suggest if at all possible you take the pictures outside, in broad daylight (or by a window) , so illumination is even and camera focusing is better.
Or dust any old digital camera you have sleeping on some drawer, cellphones are not approppriate for small parts closeups under poor lighting, the cheapest "real" camera blows them to pieces.
i will get right on those pics. if im reading this correctly IEC jack to bulb ?? to fuse to ground rail switch for the hot and same for the nuetral??? or no theres a split at the capacitor and im only assuming thats the ground rail because theres no other 250v cap before the switch that i know of.
No repeat no part of mains wiring must go to chassis or ground.
As a double check, after wiring but without plugging amp into mains, , "turn amp on" (still unplugged) and measure resistance from each mains plug blade to chassis and supply ground (they might not be properly interconnected).
The only blade which must show low resistance (less than 10 ohms) is the ground one, which goes to green/yellow wire; non of the others (live/neutral) must show continuity or "ohms" connection to chassis/ground.
Thanks.Juan Manuel Fahey
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crossover network, thank u bill. fuse pigtail is there bad pictures is all
ok. simplyfying so no one is uneasy here. how about i wire the mains and all that jazz and before i hook up the transformer and hit the switch i take a nice bright picture so everyones advice is on point. This is my fault that this thread no longer is any fun , lol. and thank u for the english review" Sir J M Fahey." I will get back to u all soon . BTW i can tell this is my first time seeking forum help this is awesome and i love this shit .
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Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View PostWire it up like it should be.
The pic shows two wires with terminals (one looks tied off)
Those are the Primary side inputs.
The secondary is Red/ Ylw/ Red
It is really tough finding a complete transformer wiring diagram for an SWR amp.
This is as close as it gets.
[ATTACH]41527[/ATTACH][ATTACH]41527[/ATTACH]
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seems like you know a lot. Gonzo has been helping me pretty patiently but would you like to weigh in here? Workingman's 15 blew a fuse when turned on. (help me troubleshoot?)
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Originally posted by J M Fahey View PostOh, no English Grammar involved, but agreeing on Technical speak when we are trying to transmit an idea.
Similar to the "xxx part shows no reading" which youŽll see in about half of the threads
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hi, holidays went well id hope. im trying to get re oriented and pick up where i left off. the crossover network huh, theres something im not aware of but as im wrapping my head around it would something there cause a power on, no sound issue . The reason i ask is that I found out that was the was the problem. He molested this poor amp thinking it was a bad solder ot connection somewhere. I aske dif it had sound through the headphones, he said no. with or without the horn either. i plugged my peavey century into that same speaker and it checks out fine. any thoughts?
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Ok, you checked the speaker, , now we know it works.
Next: build a lamp bulb limiter, plug amp there,check that you have DC voltages in the power supply: main rails, +/-15V for the preamp, also check whether you have DC voltage on the speaker out or not, both at the output jacks(s) and at the board itself, follow wiring to see what point of the PCB is connected to speaker jacks.
Also check Collector to Emitter voltage at each power transistor.
And print a large copy of the amp schematic, if possible double page size (you print half in each page and tape them together) and then staple it to Lab wall, so you can pencil measurements on it and anything you find.Juan Manuel Fahey
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These amps have a two way speaker system with a 15" woofer and a small tweeter. The tweeter has a simple cap/resistor crossover network. All of this is connected by way of a 3 conductor undersized phone plug. Because the crossover is inside the amp chassis there can be a speaker switch that allows for the speaker to be turned off, on with the tweeter and on without the tweeter.
If the speaker switch is bad or the wiring to the switch is bad, it could cause the sound to cut out. But, there are many reasons why an amp could lose audio signal. Taking the amp apart is not the correct way to find the problem.
Your first step will be to re-assemble the amp and then test things to find out where the problem lies. Start by installing the power transformer and rewiring the primary input circuit. If you can get it wired back up correctly, you should be able to test for ac voltage on the transformer secondary.
As was suggested, if you build a light bulb limiter, it will help in the repairs.
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