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Ampeg B25 Chassis Mounts?
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Originally posted by misterc57 View PostI am reconditioning an old B25. The chassis mount blocks and rubber mounts need to be replaced. I will be cutting new wood blocks.
I am wondering if anyone has found a local hardware store solution to replace the rubber mounts. Mine are so bad I cannot even tell how tall they should be.
They also have metal mounting blocks but I think they're special-order and are sized for V2 & v4 & may not be the right size for B25. Also not cheap.This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Originally posted by drewl View PostI've had to do this before.
Made wooden blocks, used rubber grommets from work, hardware store might have them.
Like the chassis grommets on old amps before strain reliefs came about.
I also have a B25 that's in the final stage of electrical repair, about to try a multitap OT so I'm not stuck with the original 16 ohm output. I'll have to tackle those mounting blocks too, because the original MDF is crumbling into wood dust.This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Are we talking about things like these, or something different? :
https://www.google.ca/search?q=rubbe...w=1093&bih=494Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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I am wondering why a rubber mount is even necessary. I have never seen this in other amps.
My alternate thought;
- make the blocks closer to the adjusted height and use washers or nuts and washers to adjust the final height of the chassis sitting in the cab.
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Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View PostI also have a B25 that's in the final stage of electrical repair, about to try a multitap OT so I'm not stuck with the original 16 ohm output. I'll have to tackle those mounting blocks too, because the original MDF is crumbling into wood dust.
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I think the rubber compound is more flexible than most 'off-the-shelf' products in the industrial world.
Leo's tip about fliptops.net looks like a good way to go:
https://www.fliptops.net/catalog/p-1...-series-b25-gv
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Originally posted by misterc57 View PostIf I am not mistaken, mine has both a 16 ohm and 8 ohm speaker connection.
Mounts $7.90 apiece from Fliptops, yikes. Makes it worth a look thru a Grainger catalog, letsee what we find...This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Originally posted by misterc57 View PostI am wondering why a rubber mount is even necessary. I have never seen this in other amps.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostIn my experience, the rubber mounted chassis vastly improves microphonic issues and tube longevity.
Just checked the B25 I'm working on, the mounting studs are 8x32.
Grainger has these, part # 2NNZ6, a quarter the price of Fliptops. They're rated for 20 pounds, with only 3 pound shear (sideways), wonder what's the rating on Fliptops' mounts?
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Vibration-Isolator-2NNZ6?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2NNZ9_AS01?$smthumb$This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Secret ingrediant to getting your fingers pinched and mutilated until you learn to deal with them and a pain to set on the bench even with a good mounting device.
And I've seen nothing in the shock mounts that helped preserve integrity better than contemporaries like Fender or Marshall etc.
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Originally posted by drewl View PostSecret ingrediant to getting your fingers pinched and mutilated until you learn to deal with them and a pain to set on the bench even with a good mounting device.This isn't the future I signed up for.
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