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Carvin Nomad 112 Crackling and Hissing
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Originally posted by Chuck H View PostIf I read this in order it seems to indicate that with R3 lifted that there is still 190V on pin 6 of V1. Is this correct? Because it sure shouldn't be!!! It should be 0V. And there should be NO TUBE IN THERE. With no tube in there the voltage on that pin should be over 400V if R3 is still connected. Which it shouldn't be.
How is C6 going to make noise with no voltage applied to it?
How many things can possibly be wrong with the same tests in the same place at one time!?!
[ATTACH]55734[/ATTACH]
I'm starting to wonder if we're not being F'd with here.Attached FilesLast edited by Perkinsman; 10-25-2019, 11:30 PM.
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Originally posted by Perkinsman View PostI'm not sure where this thread has gone off the rail but I'm hoping to get back to solving the problem. Obviously I'm not an EE, just a guy trying to follow the experts lead & fix a friends amp & learn something along the way. Much respect and gratitude for everyone's assistance. I'm attaching an audio file with V1 in. Voltages at pin 1=180, pin 6=190, pin 8=1.2vdc, R3=365 & 186, C2=189 & .40, C6=.3 & .1. The only voltage listed on the schematic is 190 at pins 1 & 6 so I'm not sure if the others I've mentioned are within spec. As stated, I have the same amount of hiss on the clean channel with V1 in or out, the volume controls hiss with V1 in or out. P4 (treble) decreases the volume a bit but not the amount of hiss. The soak channel doesn't have any noise until it's volume is turned up past 8, so it doesn't seem to impact the soak channel. I've lifted the legs of R3 & C2 with no change in hiss. I've resoldered all V1 pins, R3 & C2. I have noticed when testing some of the leads there will be a slight pop noise and then then the hiss quiets but always comes back. Also, I have not pulled C6 yet but was hoping to hear from the group as to whether the voltages I mentioned are even close to being correct.
pin 1=180, Ia=0.84 mA
pin 6=190, Ia=0.79 mA
pin 8=1.2v Ia=0.8 mA
The voltages that you measured are in the range of +/- 10% voltages at schematics and correspond to anode current through tube of about 0.8 mA
To identify the source of hiss, put an empty male jack (without cable) in Return (J3) to disconnect the preamp from the power amp. Do you still have hiss?
If you still have hiss, hiss generates in power amp. Since tube V3 locate in power amp and in clean ch, check (replace) tube V3Last edited by vintagekiki; 10-26-2019, 08:38 AM.It's All Over Now
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Originally posted by vintagekiki View Postfor Ud =365 VDC
pin 1=180, Ia=0.84 mA
pin 6=190, Ia=0.79 mA
pin 8=1.2v Ia=0.8 mA
The voltages that you measured are in the range of +/- 10% voltages at schematics and correspond to anode current through tube of about 0.8 mA
To identify the source of hiss, put an empty male jack (without cable) in Return (J3) to disconnect the preamp from the power amp. Do you still have hiss?
If you still have hiss, hiss generates in power amp. Since tube V3 locate in power amp and in clean ch, check (replace) tube V3
I think Helmholtz's suspicion of V3 must be accurate. Grounding the grid of V3 with the volume control stops the hiss. Strange though that only V3B seems to be affected since a noisy tube is usually compromised in both triodes. The soak channel being quiet would indicate that V3A is not hissing because both channels use V3A as their final stage. Things that should be noted...
Provided the relays are switching correctly there is nothing but voltage dividers between V3B and V3A in the clean channel.
It has been reported that pulling V2 silences the noise. But V2 is exclusive to the soak channel which is reported to be quiet.
EDIT: I recently did some experiments with emission noise in preamp tubes for one of my designs. I think it would be a good idea to replace C8 on the off chance that this is the problem. It doesn't need to be 10uf. Anything that value or greater would be fine.Last edited by Chuck H; 10-26-2019, 04:18 PM."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Strange though that only V3A seems to be affected since a noisy tube is usually compromised in both triodes. The soak channel being quiet would indicate that V3B is not hissing because both channels use V3B as their final stage. Things that should be noted...
V3B is only used in the clean channel (channel 1).- Own Opinions Only -
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostBut the output (noise) of V3B gets further amplified by V3A by maybe a factor of 60...
V3B is only used in the clean channel (channel 1).
The point of amplification A to B is something I considered. I would start by replacing V3A with a know quiet tube.***
If that didn't work I would replace C8 on the off chance it's compromised and making some noise as it fails, injecting that into the cathode circuit.
*** New does not automatically mean quiet, or even good. I and many others here have had many new tubes, fresh out of the box that were noisy or bad."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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I would start by replacing V3A with a know quiet tube.***- Own Opinions Only -
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostAudio file seems to be corrupted.Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostI think the suspect is V3B. Noise produced by V3A wouldn't produce much output signal because of the low PA gain. But as V3B and V3A should be contained in the same tube (envelope), replacing V3 is what I recommend.
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P.S.
I want to formally apologize to Perkinsman for implying that he failed to provide accurate information. Since the hiss seemed to terminate with the volume control I interpreted this to mean it terminated AT the volume control. Which didn't make sense at face value. So that was MY mistake. It was, of course, the grounding of the grid at the following gain stage and not anything behind the volume control."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Originally posted by Perkinsman View PostNo apology necessary, I probably didn't explain things as clearly as I should have. Btw, I tested the V3 tube and it was the b side! Nice call guys! Now can someone explain how you narrowed that down to V3b??
We narrowed it to V3B because the volume control grounds that triodes grid. With the other test reports this was the only thing that could possibly have been making the difference."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Originally posted by Chuck H View PostYou stated just what was going on as per the tests requested. I made a social error when I assumed you got something wrong instead of me. I insist on the apology and wish to keep my shame on the issue
We narrowed it to V3B because the volume control grounds that triodes grid. With the other test reports this was the only thing that could possibly hav,e een making the difference.
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I don't think a scope would have been faster. Maybe? If you're thinking of getting a cope, just do! Super fun to have and if you pursue this work it will absolutely make itself useful. *bay is rotten with good scopes for under $200
As to the trouble shooting. Everybody does it different, but I never suspected the treble cap. And though I had considered the grounding of V3B back in post #24, I didn't report on it (insert forehead slap emoji). Really it just came down to this... The soak channel was fine, so everything involved in the soak channel was ignored. All the circuits for the clean channel other than V3B were quickly eliminated by removing V1 and then R3. Helmholtz gets credit for being the first to pin down V3B. Though I think he suspected it even before he pinned it down."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Hi all,
I have a similar problem with my Nomad 112. It produces 2 types of noise, one of which is hiss, the other is more like a low level hum (not the 50/60 cycle hum).
The humming is in both channels, the hissing only on the clean.
Both are cut out or increase with volume, this is more marked with the hissing.
I have already made the test with the jack in the return socket, and the hiss stops, so I guess it must be the preamp.
If I remove V3, the hiss stops altogether (the hum is still there). I tried replacing V3 (with some 7 new tubes), with no results.
If I perform the chopstick test, it seems that every item I touch in the preamp (caps, resistors, relays) produces a crack. The same happens if I tap on the PCB of the preamp. The cracks occur also without V3 in place.
Please note that I am a complete noob, so any instruction has to be foolproof.
Thanks for your supportLast edited by Ballalloi; 02-05-2023, 12:03 PM.
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