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Laney TT50H No Outout

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  • Depends which one you used before. Was the other one a D suffix? Or AD or PW? They are different packages so one will fit and one won't.
    If the other one was 74HCT08D then this one will work.
    Originally posted by Enzo
    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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    • Previous U2:. 771-74HCT08D-T

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      • Yes, both parts are 'D' suffix, so either one will work. D suffix indicates SOIC-14 package.
        Originally posted by Enzo
        I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


        Comment


        • Originally posted by g1 View Post
          Yes, both parts are 'D' suffix, so either one will work. D suffix indicates SOIC-14 package.
          I've got U2 now(2 of them), can you tell me any tricks to soldering one this small with 14 legs? Thanks.

          Comment


          • First make sure it is stuck down to the board with pins lined up using some kind of glue or fixative like the original had (red stuff). You need a fine tip on your solder iron. If you don't have one, in a pinch you can grind it down. Make sure the tip is coated with fresh solder for quickest heat transfer. Solder should be fairly fine type as well.
            Get on and off the chip as fast as possible. Allow chip to cool between soldering each pin, and stagger the order of the soldering so you aren't doing pins next to each other, which also helps prevent overheating.
            Originally posted by Enzo
            I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


            Comment


            • Look up "surface mount soldering" on google for starters.

              Then a specific product: Chip Quik
              Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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              •  
                soldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!

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                • Agree with all the above. I'll add: Use a good amount of flux. It helps keep you from soldering pins together.
                  "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by g1 View Post
                    First make sure it is stuck down to the board with pins lined up using some kind of glue or fixative like the original had (red stuff). You need a fine tip on your solder iron. If you don't have one, in a pinch you can grind it down. Make sure the tip is coated with fresh solder for quickest heat transfer. Solder should be fairly fine type as well.
                    Get on and off the chip as fast as possible. Allow chip to cool between soldering each pin, and stagger the order of the soldering so you aren't doing pins next to each other, which also helps prevent overheating.
                    Ok, got U2 soldered in, pin 5(5vdc), and have channel switching all channels. Really appreciate the help. Now, still have low power and oscillation. Any thoughts on those issues? Thanks.

                    Comment


                    • Get back to the presence control. It should boost upper mid frequencies. Does it do anything? Does it work backwards? Affect the oscillation?
                      Originally posted by Enzo
                      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by g1 View Post
                        Get back to the presence control. It should boost upper mid frequencies. Does it do anything? Does it work backwards? Affect the oscillation?
                        Presence not doing anything and has no affect on oscillation.

                        Comment


                        • On main board, solder a jumper wire across C24. Find R44. One end should be 0 ohms to ground. Measure resistance from the other end to ground, with presence set to zero, then with presence set to 10.
                          Originally posted by Enzo
                          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by g1 View Post
                            On main board, solder a jumper wire across C24. Find R44. One end should be 0 ohms to ground. Measure resistance from the other end to ground, with presence set to zero, then with presence set to 10.
                            Jumper wire across what I believe to be c24, from ground to end of R44-presence on 0(3.2k ohms)
                            presence on 10(2.1 ohms).

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post

                              Jumper wire across what I believe to be c24, from ground to end of R44-presence on 0(3.2k ohms)
                              presence on 10(2.1 ohms).
                              Yes, that's C24. Remove the jumper and repeat the measurement.
                              Where is that other red wire in the picture going?
                              Originally posted by Enzo
                              I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by g1 View Post

                                Yes, that's C24. Remove the jumper and repeat the measurement.
                                Where is that other red wire in the picture going?
                                Removed c24 jumper, c44 now(4.7k/4.7k ohms) presence 0-10.
                                The other red wire is connecting main board to midi board.

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