Randall RD-5 not happy..

[DrGonz78]

(unless the mute position is the button in the out position, & the broken switch equates to this position, & pressing it -in- means unmute.. seems unlikely though).

Definitely pushed in would cut the positive connection to the main speaker, muted. Pushed out would be unmute according to the schematic. You always could remove the switch and run some jumper wires to establish an unmute connection to be able to test the amp

[Sea Chief]

Definitely pushed in would cut the positive connection to the main speaker, muted. Pushed out would be unmute according to the schematic. You always could remove the switch and run some jumper wires to establish an unmute connection to be able to test the amp

Hi Gonz..

yes I was thinking the same too: it must surely be in the pushed out position, as it is now. But there again with no sound at all from speaker, muted fits the bill as to a diagnosis as Jon suggests.

Yes I can remove the switch to be certain of an unmute situation. This seems sensible. As to the jumper wires- I just can't figure out from where to where looking at shroedinger's-6-legged-octopus, that being this switch on the schematic. Could you advise?

thanks, SC

[Jon Snell]

To disable the switch; Remove the switch and connect one wire (as shown in red).

[Sea Chief]

To disable the switch; Remove the switch and connect one wire (as shown in red).

Hi Jon. BINGO!! that was it haha.. it lives!!

And do you know what? it sounds absolutely bloody fantastic too! silly gain nonsense/ forget that turn put gain 3 to.. & it sounds like a dimed 5F1 Champ.

Remarkable (Jon Randall was with Leo Fender up until CBS thing 60's.. so not to be dismissed).

Thanks for all your help/ sticking with me. And Pixel- thanks alot too. SC

[Pixel]

Thanks to all as well. I've learned a lot from this thread and "poking" around the schematic. It is interesting to see how some things in the schematic made more sense when you saw how it was implemented in the amp itself.