Need a good recomendation on a Biasmeter to bias my JCM 800 2205 and Fender twin reverb amps

[The Dude]

My thing with this thread is that it probably has taken longer to write all these posts than it would take someone to fix the thing. It doesn't even require much technical knowledge.

[Chuck H]

Well we got this far:

I do know how to solder to terminals, test continuity measure voltage, etc.

That should be all it takes.

Now it's just a matter of some adhesive and a couple of relatively cheap parts. There's a time lag for repair due to shipping. May as well have some fun.

[Greg Robinson]

I use these sockets and these bases for making bias probes. The pins of the bases are hollow, so you simply solder an excess length of bus wire to the bottom of the socket, carefully align those wires with the base pins (tweezers required), push the two havles together, solder the bus wire to the base pins, and trim the excess - this is much like the el34world example linked by Gonz in post #28, but skipping the unnecessary PCB step in between. Drill a hole in the side of the base and wire in whatever test connections you need, use a 1Ω resistor instead of bus wire for pin 8, breakout leads for plate/screen/cathode, whatever (my preference is hardwired mA meter in series with the plate which also gives me a plate voltage measurement point, and breakouts for cathode and screen voltage).

Presumably these are constructed in a similar fashion. You would need to DE-solder the pins, then the two halves should slide apart. Adhesive is not required, but that doesn't mean there won't be any. Hopefully they didn't use any.

Hope that helps.

[Tom Phillips]

I use these sockets and these bases for making bias probes...

You just supplied an excellent description of how to make a bias probe head.
I would recommend using a good adhesive between the socket and the base so that the parts can't move as tubes are installed and removed. The constructed adapter should have a very long life and it would be easier to make a replacement than to make it easy to disassemble.
Thanks for the great description with links to the parts needed.
Cheers,
Tom

[Jquijano]

I use these sockets and these bases for making bias probes. The pins of the bases are hollow, so you simply solder an excess length of bus wire to the bottom of the socket, carefully align those wires with the base pins (tweezers required), push the two havles together, solder the bus wire to the base pins, and trim the excess - this is much like the el34world example linked by Gonz in post #28, but skipping the unnecessary PCB step in between. Drill a hole in the side of the base and wire in whatever test connections you need, use a 1Ω resistor instead of bus wire for pin 8, breakout leads for plate/screen/cathode, whatever (my preference is hardwired mA meter in series with the plate which also gives me a plate voltage measurement point, and breakouts for cathode and screen voltage).

Presumably these are constructed in a similar fashion. You would need to DE-solder the pins, then the two halves should slide apart. Adhesive is not required, but that doesn't mean there won't be any. Hopefully they didn't use any.

Hope that helps.

Well thanks. I just took some better pictures so you can observe the low quality construction and point out the best quality sockets and parts to fix these lousy bias probes. Hope it works!

[DrGonz78]

Well you got to get the socket open to observe how it is wired. Then you can build other probes with the same wiring scheme.

[Jquijano]

Yes but i want to get good high quality sockets and strong bases to fit in these cans.

[DrGonz78]

My point involves documenting the experiences. Just saying to take good pictures of the wiring. That way you will help other people that may need to build a new socket. So far there are good pic’s but nothing showing the internal wiring.

[Jquijano]

I will dissasemble once you can recommend me the parts i need to buy but quality parts please. No junk.

[Greg Robinson]

I would recommend using a good adhesive between the socket and the base so that the parts can't move as tubes are installed and removed.

If you use a suitably robust solid (rather than stranded) bus wire gauge - say 18AWG/d1mm/0.75mm˛ or greater, and pull them tight through the base, the construction is plenty robust and no adhesive is required IME. Adhesive would make them much more difficult to disassemble should any changes or repair need to be done. The socket and base I recommend are a perfect fit together, so there's no side-to-side play, they only need to be retained together, and the soldered pins do a perfectly fine job of that. I've never worried about the halves coming apart with about a decade of use and probably close to a thousand or more uses.

[g1]

Parts were linked in post #33. If you missed them, they are in the words 'sockets' and 'bases'.

[Chuck H]

Actually parts have been getting listed since post 9 !!! And at least a couple more times since then. It's not getting in.

[Tom Phillips]

Is this guy related to the Sea "Cadet" ?

[Chuck H]

Is this guy related to the Sea "Cadet" ?

I thought the same. It does seem like a remote possibility. But if you go back far enough we're all related. So it's just a matter of which genes you got coming in