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5F6A Bassman bias help...

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  • 5F6A Bassman bias help...

    I have a 58 Bassman on my workbench. Changed some dried caps amps is sounding great but one 6L6WGB tube was redplating. I measured and whoah... 88mA on one

    So
    455V on plates
    88ma / 66mA - tube measurement

    I put 120k resistor instead of 56k but change is very small
    Now: approx #1 is 65mA / #2 is 33mA now---- still too much!
    Now: Plate voltage has risen up to 500V

    Both 4,7k and 15k resistors are in specs.
    Both 8uF caps replaced.

    Quite confused.
    I know that new matched set must be bought soon, but at the moment I want to make amp just playable within safe limits.
    Is there anything I'm missing here? Usually, changing bias to a 10-20k more (or a pot, in series) resulted with quite hardcore range - and here, over double resistance and not much is changed.

    https://robrobinette.com/images/Guit..._Schematic.pdf
    https://robrobinette.com/images/Guit...der_Layout.gif

  • #2
    I would suspect the 100n or 0.1uF coupling caps feeding the 6L6.
    Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
    If you can't fix it, I probably can.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Jon Snell View Post
      I would suspect the 100n or 0.1uF coupling caps feeding the 6L6.
      This could be tested by swapping the tubes to see if the high current follows the tube or stays with the socket.
      "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

      "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

      "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
      You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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      • #4
        To tell if the coupling caps are leaky, lift one end of each and measure bias again
        Those old Astron caps are notorious for developing leakage..
        Last edited by Helmholtz; 02-15-2024, 11:44 PM.
        - Own Opinions Only -

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        • #5
          Thanks!

          I lifted two 0,1 caps and still have same issue.
          Swapped tubes and it just switched sides. So, not the coupling caps...
          (Currently 68k resistor = 79mA one one tube and 49mA on the other - and they all should be in 30mA range)

          Any other ideas?

          Click image for larger version

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          • #6
            What voltage do you measure at the junction of the grid leaks?
            Too little bias voltage here would explain the high currents.
            Reason might be a bad selenium bias rectifier.

            As B+ is high, screen voltage will be high as well. High screen voltage increases idle currents.
            Is the PT original?
            What is the heater voltage?
            - Own Opinions Only -

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post
              What voltage do you measure at the junction of the grid leaks?
              Too little bias voltage here would explain the high currents.
              Reason might be a bad selenium bias rectifier.

              As B+ is high, screen voltage will be high as well. High screen voltage increases idle currents.
              Is the PT original?
              What is the heater voltage?
              PT original
              Heater: 6.7V measured on the power tubes between pin 2&7.
              Screen +/- same as PV (475V)
              Juction of grid leaks same as PV
              Between each coupling cap: 310V
              Bias resistor: 54V

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by boroman View Post

                PT original
                Heater: 6.7V measured on the power tubes between pin 2&7.
                Screen +/- same as PV (475V)
                Juction of grid leaks same as PV
                Between each coupling cap: 310V
                Bias resistor: 54V
                At the junction between the 220k grid leaks you should have a negative voltage to ground.
                What is "PV"?

                Surprized that Fender offered a 220V export PT in the 50s.
                - Own Opinions Only -

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post

                  At the junction between the 220k grid leaks you should have a negative voltage to ground.
                  What is "PV"?

                  Surprized that Fender offered a 220V export PT in the 50s.
                  Sorry - my mistake=, so at the junction (220k) to ground is 54V
                  PT is original 120V, I am using step down transformer at 122VAC measured now.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by boroman View Post
                    Sorry - my mistake=, so at the junction (220k) to ground is 54V
                    I guess that means minus 54V. Should be large enough.
                    Still don't understand what you meant with PV.

                    I'm beginning to doubt your idle current measurements.
                    How exactly did you do it?
                    Also make sure your meter battery is fresh.

                    - Own Opinions Only -

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                    • #11
                      I would suspect a faulty or as we call it 'soft' valve. Replace them with a new matched pair. That will at least save you time deliberating.
                      Have a look at the glass for signs of condensed vapour from the cathode.
                      Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
                      If you can't fix it, I probably can.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post

                        I guess that means minus 54V. Should be large enough.
                        Still don't understand what you meant with PV.
                        I think it stands for Plate Voltage

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                        • #13
                          Regardless of the problem, I'd replace that selenium rectifier. Even if good, it's not worth keeping. If it goes bad, the smell alone will make you wish you'd replaced it.
                          "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by The Dude View Post
                            Regardless of the problem, I'd replace that selenium rectifier. Even if good, it's not worth keeping. If it goes bad, the smell alone will make you wish you'd replaced it.
                            I've read this many times. Never experienced it. I hope I never do.
                            "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                            "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                            "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                            You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It's quite possibly the worst thing I've ever smelled and it lingers.
                              "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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