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favorite wire stripper for small guage wire?

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  • #16
    +1 for Enzo, this is indeed one slick tool. The current model (stripax Pro 6 1113) is spec'ed from 10-28 AWG wire, and is actually available for $68. That might seem pricy considering there are other types available for between 5 and $30 or so, but it can be easy to nick or even cut the wire with those, and I'm a sucker for tools that work really well. Besides, you can't even get your pearly whites cleaned for $68 anymore, can you?

    MPM

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    • #17
      I just wanted to drop a quick note:

      I got the Paladin a while ago... It works great. Thanks!

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      • #18
        http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...3757-2+(330013)
        I've used these for years. Side cuts can nick the wire and cause a weak (break) point.
        Attached Files

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        • #19
          enzo have you specifically used the paladin w/ teflon 18awg? Wanna make sure because teflon wire is the only reason I'm upgrading my strippers.

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          • #20
            For PTFE you want the Mini-stripax Plus, model 1115p. See the listings here, e.g.:

            Wire Strippers: Discount Prices on Wire Strippers at ITC Electronics

            MPM

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            • #21
              right on thanks! just ordered it.

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              • #22
                these are nice:

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                • #23
                  PATCO thermal stripper.

                  The PTS-10 Patco Inc wire strippers, thermal wire stripper, wire stripper cutter, wire cutter, cable stripper, coaxial cable stripper, wire stripping, cable stripping tool

                  You'll never use another mechanical stripper after using a thermal stripper.

                  I got my PTS-10 from ebay for $30.
                  Amazing!! Who would ever have guessed that someone who villified the evil rich people would begin happily accepting their millions in speaking fees!

                  Oh, wait! That sounds familiar, somehow.

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                  • #24
                    My colleague at work has a thermal stripper. He tried to convince me of its value, but I hate the thing with a passion. Diagonal cutters and an Ideal T-stripper all the way for me.

                    He also likes Teflon wire, and I can't stand that either.
                    "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

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                    • #25
                      He also likes Teflon wire, and I can't stand that either.
                      I'm starting to feel the same way. I've only used 22ga stranded, but it's a royal pain to strip anything shorter than 3" because the wire slips in my hand. It's great for repeated soldering, but aside from that, it's not fun to work with, and it's expensive.
                      -Mike

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                      • #26
                        Teflon wire is a pain, however I believe w/ a thermal stripper or the RIGHT stripping tool it may be great. (waiting for my new strippers) I do know that teflon is my first choice, as it can be bent over and over, tugged on etc... and it holds up. How many repair techs have spent valuable time replacing or resoldering broken cheap pvc insulated wire while inside a repair? I think the bit of trouble involved in stripping the wire is worth it in the long run.

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                        • #27
                          +1 on thermal strippers and teflon wire. Never had much luck with the Paladin teflon wire stripper though.

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                          • #28
                            uh oh... i guess we'll see.

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                            • #29
                              just got 'em... work great on my 22awg teflon wire!!

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                              • #30
                                Having worked in aerospace for 21 years I will tell you that we were only allowed to use silver coated wire with Teflon insulation and we were only allowed to use thermal strippers. If you are catching the wire coating on fire when stripping, you need to turn the voltage down on the strippers. Thermal strippers are used to avoid breaking strands in the wires.

                                We were also not allowed to use flux in our soldering as it contaminated the solder joints and weakened them.

                                Avoid breathing solder fumes.

                                We also were not allowed to heat the solder with the soldering tip. We had to apply the solder tip to the part that was to be soldered and have the solder melt onto the other side of the part allowing the solder to wick it's way through and around the part finally reaching the soldering tip on the other side. This assured the parts were hot enough and the solder was adhering well TO the parts and not just melting around the parts.

                                Just some tips from a Military Certified solderer.
                                Last edited by 1971SuperLead; 01-16-2010, 05:26 AM. Reason: Just for better clarification

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