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The next pictures are with all valves on again.
First with the bulb connected directly to the wall. That's how it looks normally, you can look at it just for a moment, but not pleasant at all. Just a normal bulb on.
Next a picture of the bulb with the amp connected, just mains ON. You can look at the bulb quite ok, no sunglases needed.
Not sure how useful the pic is because the amps are so different. But anyway here's another pic of the limiter when connected to a working 100w Marshall Valvestate.
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Regarding the amp bulb yeah I cannot see it in the schematics either. I did more tests around it.
When the amp was with all the valves on it didn't light up at first. With a wooden stick I hit here and there around the area where the diodes and bias cap are, and then it lighted up, not full light but clearly visible on. Sometimes it would go off and then on after hitting again.
I took the valves out again and the bulb in the amp lights up normally, I can hit around with the stick and it just stays on.
At least I guess I should take that part out and re-solder it again.
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One thing I've done every time I've switched it on is checking the bias capacitor, to see if there was any voltage stored in it. I haven't been able to get any readings from it so far. That cap is among the ones I have replaced.
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I'm sure I can do it safely but didn't measure that. I'm not sure where to place the probes. You mean just before the second switch? I know one of the cables is a red one in the switch, but now sure where the other probe should go.
PS: I appreciate your comments. Maybe I'll end up having to take it to a pro, but so far I'm having fun with the process and trying it myself. I hope you are not getting bored with these newbie questions.
First with the bulb connected directly to the wall. That's how it looks normally, you can look at it just for a moment, but not pleasant at all. Just a normal bulb on.
Next a picture of the bulb with the amp connected, just mains ON. You can look at the bulb quite ok, no sunglases needed.
Not sure how useful the pic is because the amps are so different. But anyway here's another pic of the limiter when connected to a working 100w Marshall Valvestate.
-----
Regarding the amp bulb yeah I cannot see it in the schematics either. I did more tests around it.
When the amp was with all the valves on it didn't light up at first. With a wooden stick I hit here and there around the area where the diodes and bias cap are, and then it lighted up, not full light but clearly visible on. Sometimes it would go off and then on after hitting again.
I took the valves out again and the bulb in the amp lights up normally, I can hit around with the stick and it just stays on.
At least I guess I should take that part out and re-solder it again.
------
One thing I've done every time I've switched it on is checking the bias capacitor, to see if there was any voltage stored in it. I haven't been able to get any readings from it so far. That cap is among the ones I have replaced.
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josegrad should (carefully, DEADLY voltage there) measure voltage with Standby OFF, just before the switch.
PS: I appreciate your comments. Maybe I'll end up having to take it to a pro, but so far I'm having fun with the process and trying it myself. I hope you are not getting bored with these newbie questions.
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