Klemt Echolette E-51 trim pots and tubes location

[Mickey]

The echo sounds may be distorted because your direct sound which is used for recording is distorted.
Are you sure valves 1 & 2 are OK? Does the indicator valve (6) show distortion or are the green bars apart when the distortion is heard?
Are your HT filter capacitors OK?
Anodes of valve 1 should have 150V on them, valve 2 should have 100V (pin 1) and 200V (pin 2)
R17 may be adjusted to high in value allowing the signal to overload valve 2.
Once you have the direct signal sounding "good/great" then we'll move to the playback section.
Cheers, Mickey

[Mickey]

The correct resistance for the heads should be approximately 1.2K Ohms
Lower value heads may work OK in the playback location but should be installed in pairs ie both playback heads should be replaced with lower resistance heads.
Cheers, Mickey

[Mecaso]

The echo sounds may be distorted because your direct sound which is used for recording is distorted.
Are you sure valves 1 & 2 are OK? Does the indicator valve (6) show distortion or are the green bars apart when the distortion is heard?
Are your HT filter capacitors OK?
Anodes of valve 1 should have 150V on them, valve 2 should have 100V (pin 1) and 200V (pin 2)
R17 may be adjusted to high in value allowing the signal to overload valve 2.
Once you have the direct signal sounding "good/great" then we'll move to the playback section.
Cheers, Mickey

Hi, thanks to Mickey

Are you sure valves 1 & 2 are OK?

Yes, they are.I have several ECC-83 in reserve & i have tried some of them on 1 an 2

sockets and the result is the same one.

Does the indicator valve (6) show distortion or are the green bars apart when the distortion is heard?

The indicator EM-84 doesn't show distortion.The two bars are in a beautiful gren/blue.

Are your HT filter capacitors OK?


I have changed the first one (50+50mf 385v)by a new. The second one seems to be good.

They retain Ht very well.

Anodes of valve 1 should have 150V on them, valve 2 should have 100V (pin 1) and 200V (pin 2)

Yes, it seems to me that the values are the same. I shall verify.

R17 may be adjusted to high in value allowing the signal to overload valve 2.
Once you have the direct signal sounding "good/great" then we'll move to the playback section.

I'll try this.

Many thanks...

[Mecaso]

The correct resistance for the heads should be approximately 1.2K Ohms
Lower value heads may work OK in the playback location but should be installed in pairs ie both playback heads should be replaced with lower resistance heads.
Cheers, Mickey

The heads i use are about 750Ω. I have the same on a NG-51S and they work well.

But, is it possible to increase this value? I think that the answer is: no!

With these heads, pre-magetization must be highest or lowest, please?

Thanks again...Greetings

Bernard (as Mecaso)

[Mecaso]

Hello everybody.

I said:

"Anodes of valve 1 should have 150V on them, valve 2 should have 100V (pin 1) and 200V (pin 2)

Yes, it seems to me that the values are the same. I shall verify."

I confirm. The values are right.


R17 may be adjusted to high in value allowing the signal to overload valve 2.
Once you have the direct signal sounding "good/great" then we'll move to the playback section.

I'll try this.

I have tried. It doesn't change anything. Sorry...

[Mecaso]

Hello


The potentiometer R17 had its wipper broken. I have changed R17.

The others potentiometers "lotto" had, too, their wippers broken.

I have changed them too.

Now, my E51 works better, with adjusting R17. Thanks, Mickey.

Just a problem for mesuring premagneting voltage on the 3 record heads.

I have only a multimeter Metrix 462 with a needle dial.

I tried with a diode in serie, but, i am not sure it is a

good solution to mesure 60, 90 & 120V HF.

Do you have an idea to measure this HF Current with my multimeter...?

Is it possible...????


Thanks & regards....

[Mecaso]

Bonsoir

Aucune réponse....???

[Mecaso]

Hello

Sorry, but...no answer...?????

[wcraffonara]

Klemt Echolette E51 service manual

Hi, just wondering if you would be so kind as to send me the E51 manual? I have repaired quite a few of the Klemt tape echos both for personal use as well as for other guitarists and having compared them to quite a number of tape echo units I believe them to be both more versatile as well as better constructed than other European tape echos. Have not been able to compare them to the US made model but as these appear to be similar to an Echoplex I would think they would be rather limited in their echo capabilities. Cheers, Mike

Hi Mickey,
can you please send me the service manual of the Echolette E51? That would be great!

Thanks!

Best regards
Walter

[Mickey]

Hi Walter,
I'm not aware of any service manuals for any of the Klemt Echolette Tape Echos, schematic (circuit diagrams) are readily vavailable via Google.
When repairing these old Echolettes make sure you replace all of the coupling and bypass capacitors on the circuit board. This is a PITA as the board has to be adequately unwired to allow for the components to be replaced. There are some thin wires located near the two diodes that have to be unsoldered to to gain access to the under side of the board.
Good luck, Mike

[AlbanLG]

Hello Guys,
I read this thread with attention from the beginning and I see that there are specialists in the place !!
I have a similar "mecaso's" problem with my NG51S.
I noticed that the preamp was overdriven very quickly and it lost a lot of treble. With white noise at the input, the frequency curve is obvious. Is this one of the specs of the NG51S or is there a problem with mine? Could it be from a lamp? I swapped the lamps except the ECC82 but there was no improvement. I have the same problem with the mic and line inputs.
I also spotted the trimpots and try to move them, the output level trim only works fully open.
The dry output sounds good with no saturation but it is weak.
The output with effect saturates with a hum at 50Hz and 100Hz. The noise appears when you increase the Reverb Level knob.
Panel lights are off, do you known where are they on the unit, I can't find them. Maybe heathers tension are dead also ? But the hum balance pot works because I heard the hum volume increase or decrease when I move the pot.
Did you have any suggestion, could you give me some check point ?
All the best !

[AlbanLG]

Hello!!
I make some investigations inside the echolette and I see mods in output. Probably someone have already put his hands inside before me...
The output isn’t wired like schematics. R42 and R43 are missing.
Someone could tell me how to rewire the output ?
I have :
- Ground from head bias trim pot.
- 2 red cables
- 1 yellow cable
- 1 caps come from « remote control » C23

Is it normal to have some echo from the output 3 and 4 (pin 4 and 5) ?
Something is going wrong but I don’t find the things...

[Mickey]

Take it easy!
The signal that flows from the input to the indicator valve goes from Ro1 to Ro2 and then to Ro6. If you think there is a problem with this section of the circuit do some checking ( voltages) and if there are still some suspect capacitors replace these ( c3, c4,c9,c17,c8 for starters).
Voltages 0n the anodes of Ro2 are important.
DO NOT FIDDLE WITH OTHER SECTIONS OF THE Echolette, ONE SECTION AT A TIME!

[AlbanLG]

Hello Mickey !
Thanks for your reply, you are right, take it easy, step by step !!
I check voltages on the anodes of Ro2 and I find this values :
PIN 1 : It starts at 300V and it stabilizes at 88V after 30s
PIN 2 : It starts at 350V and it stabilizes at 172V

Voltage on the anodes of Ro1:
PIN 1 : 0V? (R4 dead ?)
PIN 2 : 125V

So I check some voltages of the power supply :
A1 : It starts at 350V and it stabilizes at 293V after 30s
A2 : It starts at 329V and it stabilizes at 230V after 30s
A3 : It starts at 310V and it stabilizes at 156V after 30s

What do you think about this values ?

[Mickey]

First of all, your pin numbers are incorrect, I think you mean anodes of Ro1 ( pins 1 & 6 ) which should read 150V DC on each anode. It appears that you may have a power supply issue which should be resolved before we go further. A1 should be 320V DC, A2 260V DC and A3 190V DC. If there isn't any sign of over-load ( hot resistors ) I would replace the filter capacitors and the rectifier block. The filter capacitors can be a bit tricky to replace and will require some ingenuity. Good luck.