Danolectric PU switch

[capnjuan]

You are incorrect. The green line is the output of BOTH pickups. In A Danelectro, both pickups are wired in series AT ALL TIMES. All the switch does is short each pickup to itself when toggled to the respective (on) position.

The green line is the signal taken from the wiper of the neck tone pot; that's why it's labeled 'neck'. The other line, identified in the sketch as 'bridge' is the line that taps both pickups and their controls.



I agree with you; Dano pickups are wired in series. You are talking about how things should work and not whether this configuration works.

One more time: the OP has already acknowledged that he doesn't think this switch wiring arrangement will work either. If you believe that it works correctly as drawn, you should contact him and show him, even though he thinks it won't work, where's he's in error instead of insisting that I'm wrong.

The sketch I furnished labeled 'bridge ??' shows that in the null or center or off position - this is a center-off switch - the only line connected to the output jack is the green line from the neck pickup. As drawn, the 'blend' output is connected to the center lug and it - because it's a center-off switch, isn't connected to anything.

[Sweetfinger]

The green line is the signal taken from the wiper of the neck tone pot; that's why it's labeled 'neck'. The other line, identified in the sketch as 'bridge' is the line that taps both pickups and their controls.

I agree with you; Dano pickups are wired in series. You are talking about how things should work and not whether this configuration works.

One more time: the OP has already acknowledged that he doesn't think this switch wiring arrangement will work either. If you believe that it works correctly as drawn, you should contact him and show him, even though he thinks it won't work, where's he's in error instead of insisting that I'm wrong.

The sketch I furnished labeled 'bridge ??' shows that in the null or center or off position - this is a center-off switch - the only line connected to the output jack is the green line from the neck pickup. As drawn, the 'blend' output is connected to the center lug and it - because it's a center-off switch, isn't connected to anything.

The OP used a Gibson style on/on/on switch which is the wrong switch and if used in a Dano, will cause the middle position to have no signal. The wiring was fine. I'm not talking about how things "should" be. The diagram is correct. Your assumptions and labeling are incorrect. Here is a different diagram of the same thing.

If you put your assumptions aside and wire this exactly as shown, you will be pleasantly surprised that it works just fine. Make sure your switch is On/Off/On.
I can explain it to you again, but I can't understand it for you.

[capnjuan]

The OP used a Gibson style on/on/on switch which is the wrong switch and if used in a Dano, will cause the middle position to have no signal. The wiring was fine. I'm not talking about how things "should" be. The diagram is correct. Your assumptions and labeling are incorrect. Here is a different diagram of the same thing. If you put your assumptions aside and wire this exactly as shown, you will be pleasantly surprised that it works just fine. Make sure your switch is On/Off/On. I can explain it to you again, but I can't understand it for you.

Hi sweetfinger: at the top of this thread, member Jazz P Bass - he's the OP/Original Poster that I'm referring to - posted the sketch below. You say "... the OP used a Gibson style on/on/on switch ..." which you say is the wrong switch. Notice in the OP's sketch below, the switch in the upper right-hand corner indicating SPDT on/none(off)/on:



I don't know which 'OP' you're referring to but all my remarks have been about this sketch.

I originally posted into this thread with questions about the sketch above. I illustrated my question by sketching the three possible switch positions.

In response to my question, the OP Jazz P Bass was kind enough to reply to my question and he said:

I have to apologise for having a lack of any more information.
To the best of my knowledge, that is how the pickup/ switch was wired.
I did not wire up the setup to the schematic.
I just drew it.
I may be totally wrong on the "bridge" statement.
It may have been a another configuration.
Phase, series, parallel.
I do not recall.
I still cannot believe the factory could not provide that switch.

So; I thought that maybe he'd made a mistake and asked "Is there an error in this sketch?" and added illustrations; I thought it was wrong - my sketches prove it - but I thought I might have misinterpreted it. He replied that he may have replicated another configuration: "Phase, series, parallel." That is; he's no longer sure about the sketch either.

In my original question to the OP, I said my friend's pickups "... are wired as shown in your hand-sketch." I agree with you; the diagram you posted will work ... it works because the switch is an on/on/on type and the wiring is different from the OP's sketch.

What I've been trying to do here is to see if I can rescue my friend's wiring job and the two on/off/on Alparts/Dano that he bought switches and the answer looks like no; no big deal ... it's not the end of the world.

Thanks for telling me my sketches were wrong ... but I already knew that.
Thanks for telling me that up-neck/middle-blend/down-bridge was the correct orientation ... but I already knew that too.
Thanks for telling me that Danos used series wiring ... another fact I already knew.
Thanks for telling me repeatedly that I'm wrong.
Thanks for nothing.

[Sweetfinger]

Here is what I was referring to when I said the OP used the wrong switch:

I received a Danolectric '59 U2 reissue ( made in Korea) that the customer tried to replace the PU selector switch (broken stem).
He bought a mighty Mite MM500. SPDT On/Both/On.
The middle position killed the signal.

That is exactly what happens when you put the wrong switch into a Dano.

What I've been trying to do here is to see if I can rescue my friend's wiring job and the two on/off/on Alparts/Dano that he bought switches and the answer looks like no...

The answer is yes. Wire it like the diagram with the Dano switch and it will work. I'll even prove it. If you pay for shipping, I'll wire it for free. Send me the body or harness and the switch he bought.

[Jazz P Bass]

To whom it may concern.
The switch that was in the guitar when I received it, was the original Dano switch.
The customer broke the shaft, which I ultimately fixed, having difficulty finding a replacement.
It was a On/None/On switch.

[capnjuan]

To whom it may concern.
The switch that was in the guitar when I received it, was the original Dano switch.
The customer broke the shaft, which I ultimately fixed, having difficulty finding a replacement. It was a On/None/On switch.

Thank you Jazz P Bass: sorry to drag you and this subject on and on. As I explained, I have a friend who wired up his Dano pickups and controls in accordance with your hand-drawn sketch ... discarded the original switches ... and then went out and bought a couple of on/off(none)/on SPDT switches. Again, without grinding, I don't think that switch works with your sketch. If an on/off(none)/on switch did in your customer's guitar, then it's at least possible that his guitar wasn't wired like a conventional Dano ... p/u's in series and the rest of it.

So ... what we have is:
You posted your sketch
I wondered whether it would work with a on/off/on switch
You said you weren't sure
Sweetfinger seems certain it will
You're confident that the switch you fixed was on/off(none)/on

That's it so far. My friend is going to re-wire per the Dano DC 59 and buy a couple of on/on/on switches. Thank you for your posts and your patience. CJ

[Jazz P Bass]

The switch was On, (connects left tab to center), None (no connection between any tabs), On, (connects right tab to center.)
As opposed to a Gibson type where center position connects left & right to center.

[GR1950]

Time for the "friend" to front up !

Firstly, a big thank you to all the participants. I'm going to proceed with the DC-59 wiring diagram since I'm not wiring-in lipstick p/u's, rather, a pair of GFS Supro repro's.
Which has me posing a question. The p/u's have only a single shielded lead .... the white and gray on the DC-59 schemo. The red lead does not exist. So, do I simply wire as per the schemo., or do I need to make some modification ?

Thank you.

P.S. Sweetfinger, you'll notice that it would be kinda expensive shipping the guitar to you and returning it !! But the offer was very generous and I thank you.

Gary.

[Sweetfinger]

Hi, Gary. I don't see the Supro repro pickups on the GFS site but you will very likely run into some problems if you try to wire those pickups in series like a Dano. Since they are single conductor, that means that one of the pickups will have its shield "hot". Not good. You will need to open up one of the pickups and rewire it to a two-conductor plus shield, or you'll have to just wire your guitar like a Gibson. Didn't realize you were in NZ, but hey- offer still stands!