a durable paint for metal screw heads on a strat

[big_teee]

FYI
http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/file...BlueLiquid.pdf
B_T

More FYI.
I bought a new bottle of the permablue.
I retested some new shiney brass screws used in Pickup assembly.
Same result, the screws are now black and looks 100 years old!
I made sure the brass screws were not magnetic, it says solid brass on the package.
So without a shadow of a doubt the permablue works on brass.
Good Luck,
Terry

[David Schwab]

That would work for the pickup adjusting and pickguards.

He asked for; "metal screw heads on a strat" and that's what I showed. No one was talking about pole piece screws.

Bluing is cool, but I'm not interested in making screws look 100 years old.

[big_teee]

Like the OP said, if you have the bluing handy, then you don't have to order out.
Just like you, I'm just trying to help!
And maybe just 50 years old.
Both good answers.
T

[J M Fahey]

Thanks, Terry.
I investigated a little more and the black layer you see *is* a compound of selenium+copper , the formula was invented specifically for copper (and brass, which is mostly copper) so your results do not surprise me at all (now )
To make it darken (it's not real "blue" of course) iron, they had to add a copper salt.
I'm always interested in metal surface treatments because I fabricate from scratch many metal parts (specially my speaker frames) and finishing is a PITA.
I've been fighting over a year now with the lazy galvanizers which are careless with the parts cleanliness and often show indelible spots (even fingerprints) .
Oh well.

[big_teee]

Thanks, Terry.
I investigated a little more and the black layer you see *is* a compound of selenium+copper , the formula was invented specifically for copper (and brass, which is mostly copper) so your results do not surprise me at all (now )
To make it darken (it's not real "blue" of course) iron, they had to add a copper salt.
I'm always interested in metal surface treatments because I fabricate from scratch many metal parts (specially my speaker frames) and finishing is a PITA.
I've been fighting over a year now with the lazy galvanizers which are careless with the parts cleanliness and often show indelible spots (even fingerprints) .
Oh well.

It works a little different with brass.
There is black debris left in the bluing when you take the brass out of it.
I think it would eat the brass screws up, it you left it in the bluing solution.
Did you look at the MSDS Report?
Terry

[J M Fahey]

Yes I did, thanks.
There's where I found it contains a selenium acid, a copper salt, and nitric acid.
No wonder they call it dangerous corrosive poison !!!
The reaction works only with copper, so the tin (or zinc sometimes) part of brass is a leftover.
Probably that's the residue you see in the solution.
And yes, I guess leaving those screws there for any extended time will probably corrode them.

EDIT: even if manufacturers want to keep their "mystery" formulas to themselves (fine with me), they can't cheat on MSDS sheets or risk going to jail, so checking them is always interesting.