Originally posted by big_teee
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Coverting Strat Ceramic Magnet Pups to Alnico rods
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lowest output
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I doubt you will get any Guitar Fetish Pickup recommendations here?
Since most here make and sell pickups!
This is the wrong forum category for that.
You might try the Guitar Tech category.
http://music-electronics-forum.com/f9/
TLast edited by big_teee; 12-07-2015, 08:56 PM.
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guitar fetish pro strat pup set
Originally posted by Mike Sulzer View PostExactly, and steel poles have a higher permeability than Alnico, which means that the pickup with steel has more output and a lower resonant frequency than with Alnico. (The steel also has higher eddy current losses, and thus a broader resonant peak and a somewhat different sound.) So if you wanted to make a cheap pickup with the same output as a real Fender, you would use steel poles so you could use fewer turns. Then you would use a smaller diameter wire so that the resistance (a measurement anyone could make) would look about right. You use ceramic magnet(s) because they are cheap, although once you have steel poles, the type of magnet (outside the coil) is not so important. You do not worry too much about whether the resonant frequency is right because you are just trying to get something to sell cheap.
So if you put in Alnico pole pieces, you have no reason to think that the result is any closer to the real thing. It could well have too high a resonant frequency and too little output, and sound thin, as BT said it might.
Best idea is get some real pickups..
Which is the one to choose?
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Originally posted by big_teee View PostWhat you are calling dummies, we call steel poles.
They are magnetized by the ceramic magnet on the bottom.
If you can get the magnet off the bottom, and remove the pole pieces, then you may want to try some alnico rods.
I would measure the ohms dcr of each pickup.
42 wire is ideal, below 6k for the neck.
Plus 5% for the middle, and more for the bridge.
Some of the imports use 43 and 44 wire, and always IMO sound thin.
That is why I usually scrap them and start over.
YMMV
GL,
T
So if you put in Alnico pole pieces, you have no reason to think that the result is any closer to the real thing. It could well have too high a resonant frequency and too little output, and sound thin, as BT said it might.
Best idea is get some real pickups..
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non paralleled tone pots strat stnd
Originally posted by Dave H View PostThat sounds like standard Strat wiring to me. Both tone pots use the same cap. The top tone pot is selected in the N and N+M positions of the selector and the bottom tone pot is selected in M and N+M positions meaning the N+M position has the tone pots in parallel which can make it too muddy and the bridge PU doesn't have a tone pot which makes it too bright. It's more useful if the bottom tone is moved from the middle to bridge pickup.
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Originally posted by hewo View PostAlso saw two tone pots a254 cascaded as in dumping highs thru cap473.
Weird, from selector switch, two different terminals individually feed hot to each tone a254. One a254 wipes hot thru cap473 to earth, the other a254 wipes hot back to previous a254's same cap473 hotside.
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ceramic flat is cynoacrylated to plastic bobbin underside
Originally posted by big_teee View PostWhat you are calling dummies, we call steel poles.
They are magnetized by the ceramic magnet on the bottom.
If you can get the magnet off the bottom, and remove the pole pieces, then you may want to try some alnico rods.
I would measure the ohms dcr of each pickup.
42 wire is ideal, below 6k for the neck.
Plus 5% for the middle, and more for the bridge.
Some of the imports use 43 and 44 wire, and always IMO sound thin.
That is why I usually scrap them and start over.
YMMV
GL,
T
Abandoning mission.
Also saw two tone pots a254 cascaded as in dumping highs thru cap473.
Weird, from selector switch, two different terminals individually feed hot to each tone a254. One a254 wipes hot thru cap473 to earth, the other a254 wipes hot back to previous a254's same cap473 hotside.
I chose to separate this cascade and assign independent highdump caps, selecting silvermica 682 each a254. In complement, added hipass silvermica 102 onto volume pot (unknown value assumed also a254)
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Originally posted by hewo View PostK, remvd cover, ceramic flat pegged by dummies vertically, so simple.
Can't distinguish epoxy from silicone, razor will affirm.
If epoxied, yes abort
They are magnetized by the ceramic magnet on the bottom.
If you can get the magnet off the bottom, and remove the pole pieces, then you may want to try some alnico rods.
I would measure the ohms dcr of each pickup.
42 wire is ideal, below 6k for the neck.
Plus 5% for the middle, and more for the bridge.
Some of the imports use 43 and 44 wire, and always IMO sound thin.
That is why I usually scrap them and start over.
YMMV
GL,
T
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prey to capitalism
Originally posted by big_teee View PostDepending on the type of ceramic pickup you're trying to modify?
If it is from a chisese import, most of them are all epoxied together.
I recommend to throw them away, or scrap some of the parts and start over.
You will more than likely make them a little better, but you will probably never be happay with them.
Lots of us here can fix you up with alnico custom pickups if you need a set.
BTW, I have a box full of those kind of pickups I've taken out and wound pickups for.
GL,
T
Can't distinguish epoxy from silicone, razor will affirm.
If epoxied, yes abort
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Depending on the type of ceramic pickup you're trying to modify?
If it is from a chisese import, most of them are all epoxied together.
I recommend to throw them away, or scrap some of the parts and start over.
You will more than likely make them a little better, but you will probably never be happy with them.
Lots of us here can fix you up with alnico custom pickups if you need a set.
BTW, I have a box full of those kind of pickups I've taken out and wound pickups for.
GL,
TLast edited by big_teee; 12-06-2015, 02:26 AM.
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order alnico from ebay?
Originally posted by copperheadroads View PostIf the magnets are charged ,having them stuck together end to end works quite well as you keep all of them in the same oriented in the same direction as you insert them .
Now remove the magnets & slugs & measure one if you have a set of calipers this will determine if you need .187" or .195" I would go with .187" as it is easy to tighten them up in the hole with glue .
I wouldn't worry about stagger I would go with all .688" A5 magnets are more common & have stronger more powerful gauss than A2 or A3 .
use a CHEAP compass to determine polarity you can use the old cheap set as reference if the middle pickup has opposite polarity compared to the neck & bridge pickup then it is a RW/RP set which most cheap crappies pickups I've seen lately are RW/RP
Isn't all alnico casted?
That said, let me buy from you as confidence is greater mission success.
Else must invest in rare earth charger (can shed pinch finger blood!) and ebay un-magnetized alnico pole pieces.
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If the magnets are charged ,having them stuck together end to end works quite well as you keep all of them in the same oriented in the same direction as you insert them .
Now remove the magnets & slugs & measure one if you have a set of calipers this will determine if you need .187" or .195" I would go with .187" as it is easy to tighten them up in the hole with glue .
I wouldn't worry about stagger I would go with all .688" A5 magnets are more common & have stronger more powerful gauss than A2 or A3 .
use a CHEAP compass to determine polarity you can use the old cheap set as reference if the middle pickup has opposite polarity compared to the neck & bridge pickup then it is a RW/RP set which most cheap crappies pickups I've seen lately are RW/RP
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pups say emg
Originally posted by copperheadroads View Post
I can chk vector north of these pups emg and document it on covers. Then easy to swap in alnico.
Place alnico onto styrofoam in bucket water watch true north align?
Emg vector north can be identified so long as benchmark magnet marked already north. Repellency will affirm "like" poles.
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Originally posted by hewo View PostWow! Lots of Opportunity to screw up!
1. impact
2. windings compromise
3. vector magnetic orientation (affects phase)
4. vector magnetic orientation with respect to "other" pups engaged (selected)
5. "staggered" alnico alignment process
6. which alnico diameter (there's only two avail)
7. is it better to "charge" nonmagnetized alnico using "charging" magnet rare earth, or merely use premagnetied alnico ?
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