1022 rod...

[Joe Gwinn]

Thanx Joe! I tried annealing cold roll with the capped iron pipe in a fire and it work like a charm but just one thing, after the heating process the cap is tough to unscrew. The cold roll sample I heated (annealed) is now very soft.

The cap is probably trying to weld to the pipe, and/or is being glued together by the growth of iron oxide scale on the outside. Auto parts stores sell an anti-seize compound intended for exhaust-system hardware that should work for this too.

[EtLa]

Auto parts stores sell an anti-seize compound intended for exhaust-system hardware that should work for this too.

Next time I will try anti-seize because I needed to use a 6' extension pipe to unscrew the cap.

BTW after the annealing process, I easily distorted this rod with my bare hand.

[Possum]

?????

What type of cold rolled steel did you anneal and at what temperature? What kind of kiln did you use?

[RedHouse]

What type of cold rolled steel did you anneal and at what temperature? What kind of kiln did you use?

So I just have to ask... since it's been posted more than once that you can get the 1022 studs, why continue, seems you have found what you're looking for no?

[RedHouse]

I took it to mean "highly permeable" or "high permeability".

Hey RG, ever gonna answer the post in your "Coil winders Ideas" thread from February?

http://music-electronics-forum.com/s...0&postcount=63

so many ideas you posted in that thread, did you ever do anything with them?

[Possum]

....

Why conitinue? For KNOWLEDGE. I try to learn as much as I can in the hope that something that may not seem useful when I learn it may click later on...

[Joe Gwinn]

Next time I will try anti-seize because I needed to use a 6' extension pipe to unscrew the cap.

Only six feet? Got off easy.

BTW after the annealing process, I easily distorted this rod with my bare hand.

The beginnings of a pickup line for Twisted Sister?

[Possum]

...

are there any high temp lubricants that would keep the threads from seizing?

[RedHouse]

Why conitinue? For KNOWLEDGE. I try to learn as much as I can in the hope that something that may not seem useful when I learn it may click later on...

Ahh, clicking is good.

[Joe Gwinn]

are there any high temp lubricants that would keep the threads from seizing?

As I mentioned before, anti-seize compound intended for automobile exhaust systems ought to work. Nor is it necessary to make the cap very tight in the first place.

I suppose that one could wrap some paper around the pipethread before installing the caps. Do not use pipe dope for this, especially teflon dope or tape. The fumes from burning teflon are quite noxious.


By the way, if one uses galvanized anything for the pipe or caps, stay well away from the fire while heating the pipe assembly up to red heat the first time. And do this outside. Zinc fumes can make you very sick. For more information, google on "zinc fever" or "metal fume fever". It's better to avoid the whole drama by using only black iron pipe and fittings.

[EtLa]

What type of cold rolled steel did you anneal and at what temperature? What kind of kiln did you use?

Same as I mention on page 3 of this thread
C1018
Carbon, C 0.15
Iron, Fe 99.001
Manganese Mn 0.7
Phosphorous, P 0.009
Sulfur, S 0.03
Chromium Cr 0.11

temperature? Don't know. The pipe was red for a good 2 hours and cool down for ~10 hours (it was still hot in the morning) so I wait until it completely cool down.

What kind of kiln did you use?
Sugar maple fire in a my backyard fireplace.

Nothing scientific, I know, but the rod is without any doubt really soft.

[Possum]

.....

Pretty cool. Of course you know that when you bend it, that work hardens it so the annealing is lost, same with drilling or punching or machining it.

I wonder if just torch heating a small section and letting it cool in sand would do the same thing...

[EFK]

Using a torch would build scale whereas if you limit the amount of oxygen in contact w. the rod, you can prevent scale build. Packing in charcoal in a pipe, lidded crucible etc. works well for this purpose, akin to casehardening, although you obviously want to slow cool for the annealing rather than quenching it to effect a hardened piece.

[defaced]

Edit: I just realized there three pages to this thread, not the single page I read. Most of this has been answered already, but I'm going to leave it in case it helps someone.

steel is real confusing, there is ASTM ans AISI then there are trade name alloys, I think half my brain melted researching iron and steel alloys this last year.

Yes, metals designations are confusing, but this'll help you out.

AISI classifies a material off of chemistry: 1022. 10 = carbon/manganese steel (max 1.00% Mn), 22 = 0.22 % carbon (nominal). The rest of the prefixes are here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AISI_steel_grades

ASTM classifies material off of material properties, and may have ranges of chemistry. Without A29 in front of me I can't pull off the exact material properties, but for example it may specify minimum tensile strength, elongation, and hardness.

According to http://www.suppliersonline.com/propertypages/1022.asp, there are easily a dozen ASTM specs that cover 1022.

What type of cold rolled steel did you anneal and at what temperature? What kind of kiln did you use?

Heat to 870 C - 910 C and hold until the temperature is uniform throughout the section, furnace cool. You can get close to annealed properties by air cooling it (called normalizing), but it won't be the same. If you really care, I'll dig up a CCT/TTT diagram for this and really chase this down.

[Joe Gwinn]

Pretty cool. Of course you know that when you bend it, that work hardens it so the annealing is lost, same with drilling or punching or machining it.

True, but with 1018 to 1022, it's not a big problem. If it is a problem, anneal it after forming and drilling.

With very-high-permeability nickel magnetic alloys, it is necessary to hydrogen anneal after forming to final shape.

I wonder if just torch heating a small section and letting it cool in sand would do the same thing...

Yes - it's a traditional approach, at least for steels in the 10xx series.