Hi Kesh:
Welcome.
You can cut it with most saws.
If I can't buy the laser cut fiber from Mojo or StewMac, I cut it with a sabre, or jig saw.
Then sand the edges smooth.
Be careful around the dust, it doesn't breath too good.
I use a dust respirator when I am working with it.
T
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
Anyway, after some experimenting I found the smoothest cut, with very little dust, was using a large serrated kitchen knife! Not sawing, but stroked across the fibreboard's surface along a straight edge.
Anyway, after some experimenting I found the smoothest cut, with very little dust, was using a large serrated kitchen knife! Not sawing, but stroked across the fibreboard's surface along a straight edge.
Sorry, I think of hand tools with motors. lol
Also you can try a fine tooth Hand powered hacksaw.
What are you building, I'm curious?
T
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
I'm renovating a bass I found in a junk shop, jazz configuration, and decided to put try and make a precision pickup for it, as only the bridge pickup was intact (and no electrics), and I like the PJ configuration.
Anyway, after some experimenting I found the smoothest cut, with very little dust, was using a large serrated kitchen knife! Not sawing, but stroked across the fibreboard's surface along a straight edge.
I'm renovating a bass I found in a junk shop, jazz configuration, and decided to put try and make a precision pickup for it, as only the bridge pickup was intact (and no electrics), and I like the PJ configuration.
Sounds good.
Did you see the ones I'm in process of putting in a bass. Pickup Photos!
T
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
More of a cook's knife shape, but with a finely serrated edge
Have you tried a coping saw? That is what I have used, or sometimes to put a fine edge on it a jewelers saw with a #0 blade such as would be used for inlay work.
Have you tried a coping saw? That is what I have used, or sometimes to put a fine edge on it a jewelers saw with a #0 blade such as would be used for inlay work.
Yeah, first think I tried, and a fret saw, but as I'm aiming for a straight line it's not ideal, and the tpi is a little low on a coping saw. My kitchen knife works beautifully though, I don't know why, but problem solved.
Yeah, first think I tried, and a fret saw, but as I'm aiming for a straight line it's not ideal, and the tpi is a little low. My kitchen knife works beautifully though, I don't know why, but problem solved.
What about an electric knife?
T
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
A very sharp wood chisel works great for cutting the straight edges, just a little sanding afterwards. You can drill the rod magnet holes with a drill press. If you don't have a drill press you can use a "Belt punch" or leather punch .
A very sharp wood chisel works great for cutting the straight edges, just a little sanding afterwards. You can drill the rod magnet holes with a drill press. If you don't have a drill press you can use a "Belt punch" or leather punch .
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19245[/ATTACH]
I drilled them with hand drill, top and bottom flats clamped together, and clamped to an old pickup case as a jig.
If you need to cut a hole in the centre of the flatwork (holes for rails/bars etc) then small Jeweller's hacksaws work really well. They have a buttload of TPI and cut through really easily, handy tool for a bunch of things to have floating around the shop.
Comment